Corsair H80i should I add...

I decided on a Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i, I'm adding high performance fans to the case, however, do I need to set up the liquid cooling on a Push-Pull with extra fan or is one fan enough?

Thanks in advance

SYSTEM SPECS:

Case: Corsair Obsidian Series Black 550D Mid Tower Computer Case

PSU: Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Power Supply

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155

Liquid Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i

Additional Fans: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800)

Graphics card: MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card N660 TF 2GD5/OC

Sound card: Onboard

Hard Drive(s): Boot: Crucial m4 256GB 2.5-Inch (9.5mm) SATA 6Gb/s Solid State Drive CT256M4SSD2
Data: Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM 3.5-Inch

Optical Drive(s): Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST

Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED-Lit Monitor

Wireless Adapter: D-Link DWA-552 Extreme-N Wireless PCI Adapter

Keyboard: Logitech Wireless Illuminated Keyboard K800

Mouse: Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball

Speakers: Logitech X-140 2.0 Speakers

Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit (OEM) System Builder

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joenewbie

I decided on a Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i, I'm adding high performance fans to the case, however, do I need to set up the liquid cooling on a Push-Pull with extra fan or is one fan enough?

Thanks in advance

SYSTEM SPECS:

Case: Corsair Obsidian Series Black 550D Mid Tower Computer Case

PSU: Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze Certified Power Supply

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155

Liquid Cooling: Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H80i

Additional Fans: Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800)

Graphics card: MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card N660 TF 2GD5/OC

Sound card: Onboard

Hard Drive(s): Boot: Crucial m4 256GB 2.5-Inch (9.5mm) SATA 6Gb/s Solid State Drive CT256M4SSD2
Data: Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD SATA 6 Gb/s NCQ 64MB Cache 7200 RPM 3.5-Inch

Optical Drive(s): Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST

Monitor: Asus VS247H-P 24-Inch Full-HD LED-Lit Monitor

Wireless Adapter: D-Link DWA-552 Extreme-N Wireless PCI Adapter

Keyboard: Logitech Wireless Illuminated Keyboard K800

Mouse: Logitech M570 Wireless Trackball

Speakers: Logitech X-140 2.0 Speakers

Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit (OEM) System Builder

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Oops, nevermind, just realized that standard setup on the 80i is push pull... All of these components are arriving today via UPS so yeah... anxious to say the least, particularly since I'm in 110 degree Las Vegas. Which makes me worry about all of the parts and their tolerance.

You have a great looking setup planned ! ! Definitely push pull -- mainly because it is a 'gaming build', cooler air coming in to cool the H80i much better than warmer inside air going out -- a no brainer!!

You will have to have one exhaust fan or fan(s). I would start with one fan and measure the temp inside the cabinet at several specific locations; then go to two fans and repeat the measurements using the same locations for temp measurement.

I think the following is a fair or 'correct' statement. You are blowing air into the case with one fan. If you use two fans to suck air out of the case, they should be 'variable' speed (or at least one of them). Not having done this but here is what I think will be happening: with two exhaust fans running with full voltage on the fans, it could be possible to 'in effect try to overdraw' the inside air to the outside. The two fans are competing with the single fan pushing air in; therefore, there is some 'strain' on the two fans which is not good. So at least one fan should be variable speed.

You can set the one fan with variable speed by making temp measurements. At some point, as you increase the fan speed, there will be no change in the exit temp -- when running this test, the only variable is the speed on one of the exit fans. Computer running with a 'steady load, no changes in cpu activity'.
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I believe the above is a 'valid method' to fine tune the exit fans. I will look for any 'contradicting' data and post any applicable comments.

Again -- It is a great setup !!

My post above was written quickly. Somethings about it are not quite correct, probably!! For example I completely ignore the motherboard fan connections. I will point out my reasons or concerns with a little different wording:

The push pull fan at the cooling radiator at the top back of the case has the fan pushing air inside the case. With no other fans active that 'pushed' in air will force an equal amount of air out of the cabinet but 'maybe' or 'perhaps' the air will not be forced out as quickly as desirable. So the solution is to use the other two extra fans to blow air out of the case -- that is easy to do.

Here is the problem, as I see it, (and maybe the solution is staring me in the face but I just do not see it). The radiator fan blows cool air into the case at a rate determined by the 'cooler electronics' -- no problem at all with this.

Problem area: The plan is to use two 120 mm exit fans to evacuate the air 'blown in by the radiator fan'. The fan speed of each exit fan must be such that 'the amount of air coming in via radiator fan' is the amount of air the two exit fans must evacuate. Otherwise, the two exit fans are either 'starved for air' or 'they are overloaded with too much air' and the 'radiator fan' cannot move the air at the rate the H80i computer chip 'calls for'.

I would not expect this to be a problem; just would like to know, exactly, how it is done.

Joe

I have the H80i on my system. I've seen it recommended to have it configured to pull fresh air into the case from the back, but most builders have agreed that it works best blowing air out of the back of the case. I've tried it both ways and didn't notice any temperature differences.

When you first boot up you'll hear a gurgling sound but that's normal. It will run nearly silent most of the time unless you're gaming and it will crank up a little but not too much.

Installation was easy. Connect it to a USB header so you can take advantage of Corsair Link. It's a nice tool.

Best of luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RickyTick

Joe

I have the H80i on my system. I've seen it recommended to have it configured to pull fresh air into the case from the back, but most builders have agreed that it works best blowing air out of the back of the case. I've tried it both ways and didn't notice any temperature differences.

When you first boot up you'll hear a gurgling sound but that's normal. It will run nearly silent most of the time unless you're gaming and it will crank up a little but not too much.

Installation was easy. Connect it to a USB header so you can take advantage of Corsair Link. It's a nice tool.

Best of luck.

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Yeah I like the Corsair Link software, nice to keep track of temps inside the box... but I just noticed something, I intended to have the two fans on top sucking air OUT of the box, when in fact it's working as drawing it in.... so I have 2 front fans blowing in, the H80i blowing out the back and the panel for 2 more fans on the left side of the box just open, as I've run out of fan connectors till I get some splitters, I have 2 extra high quality fans in waiting for that, but I don't seem to have any real cooling problems yet in spite of the reverse draw of the top fans.

I plan on reversing the top two anyway so they push out as intended and mount the two side fans as intakes, the PSU acts as an outgo from what I understand....

To sum up my intentions...

Intake

2 front, 2 side 120mm.

Outgo

Push Pull i80 at rear, 2 top fans and the PSU.

Question at the moment is, should I get molex splitters or Sata to molex adapters for the additional 2 side fans? Also I've been to several sites trying to find splitters that are black to keep the inside looking as dark as possible, even amazon doesn't have them. Should I just get electrical tape and coat them myself? seems a bit slapdash to me, but it would work I guess.

"Installation was easy."


^^^ by the way, THAT is a matter of opinion, in the whole assembly process this was indeed the hardest part if for no reason other than maybe because I have big hands or something it's hard to get the connectors all done up after you put the cooling block on... there are the two fan connectors on top, of which I've used only one because it's so tough to get anything to plug into it with my bear hands, not bare. *grin* just giving fair warning to others.... on that note, now that I remember it, the screws attaching the rear fan of the cooler are too short and barely able to make contact with the radiator, as such, having had to put them on and off twice due to my not connecting the CPU power cable on first power on attempt, but I digress.... the screws or the holes are stripped on two of them, very tough to get those suckers in there in the first place, but now it seems I turn and turn and turn and it goes nowhere, and if I turn one too far the other pops out. I've gotten them both to stay in though they seem very tenuous at best. The top two screws are very secure though so I'm not worried about the unit falling or anything, just curious if this is completely abnormal or just a normal bit of build minutia.

Assuming you have stripped the threads (not the metal screw threads), about all you can do is take a drill bit equal to the diameter, plus a few thousandths, of the screw. Drill out the stripped holes, and put a long screw in that will give you enough exposed 'thread' at the screw end to put on a lockwasher and a nut.

Note: I can only 'visualize' your problem based on you 11:51 am post. If my statement 'makes total logic to you' based on 'your case and its present assembly', please post back and let me know. I assume my solution is possible; however, your assembly configuration may dictate otherwise (error in my suggestion).
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Another suggestion based on this comment by you:

Quote:

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the screws attaching the rear fan of the cooler are too short and barely able to make contact with the radiator

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If the screws are two short, just get longer ones, assuming an 'increased screw length' will fix the problem. Question: Is there anything preventing using an extra long screw even if it will extend thru the mechanism into the 'air' at the back of the case or 'if the screw goes in from the outside rear into and thru the radiator and into the case inside?
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OK, I looked at a picture of the H80i mounted inside a case at this url: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/coo...-h80i-review/3

It looks like the screw to attach the fan to the radiator goes thru the fan into the radiator, and, 'maybe' there is room on the back of radiator (between the radiator and case) for a screw to stick thru and apply a lockwasher and nut.
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If you follow any of my advice in this post, please make sure my statements and interpretations are 'entirely correct' before doing anything. Post back any question regards this post before doing anything, please!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zburns

Assuming you have stripped the threads (not the metal screw threads), about all you can do is take a drill bit equal to the diameter, plus a few thousandths, of the screw. Drill out the stripped holes, and put a long screw in that will give you enough exposed 'thread' at the screw end to put on a lockwasher and a nut.

Note: I can only 'visualize' your problem based on you 11:51 am post. If my statement 'makes total logic to you' based on 'your case and its present assembly', please post back and let me know. I assume my solution is possible; however, your assembly configuration may dictate otherwise (error in my suggestion).
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Another suggestion based on this comment by you:

If the screws are two short, just get longer ones, assuming an 'increased screw length' will fix the problem. Question: Is there anything preventing using an extra long screw even if it will extend thru the mechanism into the 'air' at the back of the case or 'if the screw goes in from the outside rear into and thru the radiator and into the case inside?

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Well what I worry about with that is going anywhere near the radiator, which has the threads I'm talking about, with a drill, I was thinking I could put some sort of superglue or other putty type material that would fill in the stripped area and then let me put the screws in and form fit to the screws and solidify... not as glue but as a fill to form fit the screws. But that's only if it becomes a problem so far it's holding well... but if/when I have to take it off/on again I'm gonna plan on doing something with those holes.

"It looks like the screw to attach the fan to the radiator goes thru the fan into the radiator, and, 'maybe' there is room on the back of radiator (between the radiator and case) for a screw to stick thru and apply a lockwasher and nut."

I had to take the stupid sound dampening rubber deals off the back of the case to get the screw to even get BARELY there... the screws that came with it do need to be about 1/8th of an inch longer.

I got a better look at the assembly, this url, http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/coo...-h80i-review/3 (same as the one above). There is a click to enlarge the photo (did not do it earlier). The radiator looks about one inch or one inch plus 'thick'. I do think those 'screw threads go the entire thickness of the radiator; but you can prove this easily by removing it and looking on the opposite side; maybe there is no hole there at all (the hole being a continuation of the front hole that now has the stripped threads.

In order to be clear, what I am looking at is the picture from the above 'bit-tech url', the picture enlarged by a 'click on' per the comment under the picture. I am looking at a chrome plated shiny screw (with a flat washer) going thru the lower left fan corner 'flange' (as one faces the fan from inside the case). The screw has no threads for about the first 3/4's of the screw length. The screw goes into a threaded hole in the radiator -- my suggestion as follows in the next para.

Remove the radiator / fan assembly. You need to look on the opposite side of the hole for the screw just described. In the enlarged picture of the fan/radiator, the side of the radiator appears to be 'stamped sheet metal' with an edge folded over that goes under the fan surface -- however, one cannot see in the picture 'what is really behind the fan regards the threaded hole -- so you need to take out the fan / radiator assembly and see the backside of the radiator to figure out what to do about the 'stripped threads'.

This comment I am not sure of but I will say it anyway. The side of the radiator does look like 'a stamped piece of sheet metal'. In a high production 'die stamping process' the metal surrounding the hole for the screw 'can be
stretched a small amount in order to allow more 'thickness to the hole for threading purposes' -- this could explain the 'easy' stripping of threads in holes you refer too.

I suggest you try to figure out exactly what you are dealing with in the way of a 'stripped hole'. You are looking for a hole on the back side of the radiator identical to the front side but in line with the hole on the side the screw in the picture goes thru. I just want to know if there is a hole on the back side (hidden side) of the radiator -- if there is one there, I suggest you do not try to use it, just do another post and I can suggest the next step. (For your info: If there is a hole on the radiator back side that is in line with the screw thru the fan, it may or may not be usable -- I will have to explain so post back whether or not the hole is there and, if it is threaded or not.)

I apologize for the long post; I just want to be clear and be in agreement if you are going to follow these suggestions.

joenewbie,

I need to make an additional comment regards your last post and my post above. From your post:

Quote:

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'maybe' there is room on the back of radiator (between the radiator and case) for a screw to stick thru and apply a lockwasher and nut."

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I mentioned in my last post that the side of the radiator is sheet metal and its edges with the holes, 'we both' refer to, are bent at a right angle. The holes the screws go into are 'extruded a small amount and threaded' or the holes have 'pressed' into them what is called a 'pem nut' -- either way you get about 3/32 " of threads.

My point (with this post) is if there is a front and back hole in the radiator that line up with the fan holes, it is 'doubtful' that the 'threads in the front hole' will line up with the 'threads in the back hole' -- this statement has to do with the manufacturing technique employed.

You can do a 'repair job', but you will probably violate the warranty on the radiator or the radiator housing; in lieu of this you can return it to Corsair. In any event, you should call them and tell them about the 'stripped' out threads and see if they will offer to exchange the radiator; you return the one with the stripped out holes, etc..

They in their instructions should warn you about 'stripped threads, etc'. As I implied you can do a so called field repair but the 'warranty flag' goes up, so I do not recommend that route.

Yeah that's why I'm gonna leave well enough alone on that. *grin* it's operating as intended and the screws are holding. I just dread having to take it off again because I know that's when I'll have issues with the screws again. Till then like I said leaving well enough alone... but I do plan on getting new screws if that day should come, just same thread type but about 1/8" longer.

As a follow up to this, I just went into the system today to add my data hard drive, while I was in there I changed out the stock fans on the case and the H80i, the fans I added were also Corsair, however they had these little rubber sound dampening grommets which left a little more give with the screws... and, upon inspection were just a tiny tiny tad slimmer than the stock fans. Suffice it to say the screws went in without a hitch, nothing was stripped, I was just turning screws to nowhere because they weren't able to reach thanks to the thicker, harder plastic fans.

Corsair needs to slim down the stock fans just a bit or increase the length of the screws. Either way, up and working flawlessly now.