High End Performance PC | Specs Validation Request

[nougain]

After some research, I kind of zero'ed-in on the following specs for the PC that I wanted to build. I have limited knowledge in this space and I am not sure if this is the best configuration I am able to come up with. I am neither a gamer enthusiast nor a graphics heavy loader pro, yet would like to have something towards the high-end --- something that remains relevant/scalable for next 4-5 years. Yes I wanted to play games (not die hard) and would be doing software development, running movies, lot of MS office stuff, and usual stuff. Want lightening speed. Am not looking for over-clocking kind of stuff (so 'k' series is probably not advised).

I would appreciate if the seasoned fraternity of this forum could review my specs and give their feedback on it. Please point out incompatibilities, shortcomings and provide suggestions for imporving the specs. Thanks much.

--
Ramesh
(New Delhi, India)



High End Performance PC





Component

Brand

Model

Questions/Remarks



Processor

Intel CPU

Intel 3.4 GHz LGA1150 4770 i7 4th Gen

FCLGA1150 socket type, 32 GB DDR3-1333, DDR3-1600, 2 Channel, 4 Cores, 84W Max TDP, 64 bit, 3 yr warranty, 22nm, 25.6 GB/s, Desktop, LOCKED (no-overclocking)



Motherboard

Asus M/B

Asus H87-PRO

LGA1150, H87, ATX, Dual Channel DIMM supporting 4 Memory Slot, 32GB

Back I/O Ports
1 x PS/2 keyboard/mouse combo port(s)
1 x DVI
1 x D-Sub
1 x DisplayPort
1 x HDMI
1 x LAN (RJ45) port(s)
4 x USB 3.0 (blue)
2 x USB 2.0
1 x Optical S/PDIF out
6 x Audio jack(s)



RAM

Corsair

Vengeance 8GB 1600 MHz (will have 2 of them ie 16GB)

CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10, DDR3 1600/PC3 12800, 240 Pins, 10-10-10-27 CAS Latency, DIMM



HDD

Seagate HDD

2TB, ST2000DM001 (7200 rpm) cache (64MB) SATA 6GB/s NCQ interface (Formally Barracuda) - Fully compatible with legacy SATA 1.5Gb/s and SATA 3Gb/s interfaces

Total 4TB
http://www.seagate.com/files/staticfiles/docs/pdf/datasheet/disc/desktop-hdd-data-sheet-ds1770-1-1212us.pdf



Keyboard

Logitech KB

Logitech Wireless Combo MK330

has plug-and-forget nano receiver for USB port for wireless connection



Graphics Card

Zotac GC

ZOTAC NVIDIA GeForce GTX 650 AMP! Edition 2 GB GDDR5 (Model: ZT-61003-10M)

Someone wrote in Flipkart: It delivers best graphice in all the games .
Farcry 3 | Need for Speed: Most Wanted (2012) | Assassin's Creed | Blackops 2 | Call of Duty: Black Ops II | FIFA 13

DOES NOT support Nvidia SLI/Crossfire technology. DO I NEED IT???????????

•1189 MHz GPU Clock Speed; 384 Stream Processors
•PCI-E 3.0 Bus Standard
•128 bit 2 GB GDDR5 Memory with 5600 MHz
•2560 x 1600 Maximum Digital Resolution
•350 W Power Supply Required
•2 Years ZOTAC India Warranty



Cabinet

Cooler Master

Storm Trooper-Window

250 x 605.6 x 578.5 mm (9.8 x 23.8 x 22.8 in); 14.4 KG; Micro-ATX, ATX, XL-ATX; Steel body, Front Mesh / Synthetic bezel;

I/O Panel: USB 3.0 x 2 (internal), USB 2.0 x 2, e-SATA x 1,
Audio In and Out ( Supports HD audio)



PSU/SMPS

Cooler Master

COOLER MASTER GX 750 SMPS




UPS

APC UPS

BR1500-IN, 1.5kVA, USB monitorining




Monitor
LG
LG 29"IPS ULTRAWIDE (29EA93)
Wide Screen 21:9 IPS LED Monitor; 29"
2560 x 1080
Contrast Ratio: 5000000:1
Response Time: 5ms
HDCP: Yes
HDMI: Yes
Set (without packaging): 5.65 Kg
1 USB3.0 Type B
3 USB3.0
1 Audio IN (Monitor has Stero Speakers)
1 Audio OUT (for Headset)
1 DisplayPort
2 HDMI (one is MHL HDMI)
1 DVI (DVI-D Dual Link)
MHL
Dual Link (connect two devices to the display - one device must be through DisplayPort)
Cinema Screen
4-Sceen Split









Software

Edition

Details

Questions/Remarks



MS Windows 8

Professional

Microsoft Windows 8 Pro (64-bit)

- Intel Remote Wake is supported on Win8 or Win8 64bit OS (supported by m/b like ASRock Z87 Extreme4



MS Office 2013

Office Home &
Student 2013

Microsoft "Office Home & Student 2013"
Core Office applications: Word, Excel, PowerPoint, OneNote (OneNote available on PC only)

http://office.microsoft.com/en-in/buy/compare-microsoft-office-products-FX102898564.aspx

1 PC Only;
Microsoft MRP: 5499/-



Antivirus

Bitdefender

Part of MS Windows 8 Pro

"Windows Defender" is inbuilt antivirus in Windows 8. HOWEVER it is not capable to protect against all types of threats. Checkout AV-TEST reports: http://www.av-test.org/

MS Security Essentials provides great malware repair and removal: placing third, just behind Bitdefender and Kaspersky. But the program's results for malware detection are much worse: It placed 21st in a field of 22

May go for commercial antivirus like, Bitdefender
Bitdefender Antivirus Plus 2013 1 PC 1 Year @220/- (1 year subscription) -- Flipkart

Yearly subscription

[zburns]

Hi nougain, and welcome to the forums,

That is an impressive layout on your build. I will have to do most of my comments tomorrow am probably. In the meantime, you might look up your warranty on the Seagate drive. I did read just several days ago that some (maybe all) of Seagate warranties were down to 2 years. Not certain about the drive you chose. I just looked for the warranty but could not find it; you might do at your convenience.

You might take a look at Western Digital Black which have 5 year warranties.

[nougain]

Hi zburns, thanks for the welcome and for the quick comment. I will eagerly look forward to your detailed comments. I will surely consider WD-Black. I am based out of New Delhi, India and I hope they have same warranties internationally.

Further, with this machine I intend to build my "Private Home Cloud", if you will. Leveraging features such as "Windows 8 Remote Desktop", "Intel Remote Wake (not sure if Asus H87-Pro mobo has that)", etc I will be able to access the single env through any device inside the house (and for that matter from anywhere). Thanks. --Ramesh

[zburns]

I have one basically fundamental question that is generic to your specific geographic location, and, I assume to all of India. First can you give me a very brief description or specification of the 'electrical transmission lines' that are predominant in New Delhi. I will use the USA as an example. Nationwide, our power line voltages that feed the millions of homes in America are three phase (sometimes single phase) power lines with voltages of 208 vac (vac means - 'voltages alternating current')(sometimes instead of 208 volts, a community may have 220 volts ac. 208 volts is common, 220 is an older technology ). Even thought our homes may have 208 volts ac coming in, we would only use in the home 208 volts ac for an electric stove or an 'air conditioning' compressor. All other electrical items such as TVs, lights and computers would be plugged into a 110 volt wall outlet. Permanently mounted built in lighting (on walls or ceilings) would all work on 110 volts ac.

My next question involves your 'communication method of transmitting back and forth' between your computer and the entity you are 'talking too'! Is the Internet connection via cable to your home base location or is it by some form of line of sight transmission (line of sight transmission would require an antenna attached to the back of your computer).

Is the UPS battery backup a sign that you may have multiple electrical outages ? Or just what is your concern that 'warrants' the battery backup?
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Changing the topic! I have looked at all components from a general viewpoint and I do not see any problem; however, I want to go over all components once more individually. While thinking about the other questions that I asked that do not concern the 'computer build' itself, those thoughts interfere with my looking specifically at each component for a final 'OK' ! !

Any questions or comments you have, feel free to pass them on, anytime ! !
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I did look at some Microsoft articles on 'Private Home Cloud' and it seems geared strictly to Microsoft only from an OS viewpoint. Before we are thru with your build, I will probably call Microsoft ref this Pvt Home Cloud ! !

[nougain]

Electricity in Delhi/India: India uses 230 Volts, 50 Hz volatage alternating current as the power source. Plugs and sockets are mostly grounded / earthed 3 Pin connections or ungrounded 2 pin connections for low power consuming devices.

Communication Method among my devices: Wi-Fi. I have hi-end Netgear WNDR4500 (N900)router, Hi-End devices like Samsung SmartTV 55D8000 (I know better TVs are out there now), iPhone 5 (I know iPhone 5S is launched and I was there through CNET live show ;) - will be buying one in Dec/Jan, PS3, Couple of laptops, Couple of iPods/Tabs, Wireless HP 4-in-1 6500A-Plus Printer... I intend to have wi-fi security home devices that will be controled remotely via my home cloud. Currently I have 4Mbps internet connection.

UPS Battery: Electricity sitiation is pretty good in New Delhi now. But outages for few minutes in peak seasons (summers and winters) do happen for few minutes. Also, at times due to technical reasons. On an average, I would say once/twice in a month kind of. But still with a PC, even a single outage can cause damage to the components. Isn't it? That is what I think and for that reason I have included a UPS. Do you think hardware components today are so robust that they can handle sudden stop of electricity supply?

Thanks for the feedback so far. I am hoping for the improvements in the specs from detailing perspective as well -- like as an example that I should have a DisplayPort on my motherboard and monitor for so and so reason... go for Graphics card that supports SLI so that in future you can add another if you wish to play game XYZ with nmp frames p/s kind of speed ...

Thanks much for your time and your efforts. Will look forward to your valuable inputs...

[zburns]

Good afternoon or early evening (?)

Just wanted to check in with you. I have some questions. Are you a novice builder; is this your first 'desktop' computer build ? Tell you the reason I am asking later. Your detail data on the right side of your post is helpful; however, I would point out that every component you have chosen is ATX compatible with any other ATX component. If you buy an ATX case, then any ATX component will fit inside that case. If you buy an ATX micro case, then , in general, only 'micro ATX' components will fit inside the case. But my main point in this para is that only ATX components must go in an ATX case. This in turn 'negates' the necessity for the detail you provided on the right side.

As a builder, one cannot assume that a non-ATX component can be used in an ATX build regardless of how the specification reads or what the builder may assume !
---------
Your voltage specification seems to mimic the US 110 volt spec. More later on this topic !
-----------
During today, I should cover all of your component choices, as well as any other non-component detail.

[nougain]

2nd Build after a gap of 10 years. Chosen Full ATX "Cooler Master Storm Trooper" Cabinet. Thanks.

[zburns]

I will have a substantial post to you in three to four hours worst case. Sorry for the delay but my post will, in effect, explain them.

Sorry; delayed until morning. 10:05 pm EST

[nougain]

Hi zburns - ok, np. Thanks for keeping me posted. Will wait for your tomorrow. Thanks.

[zburns]

Had some problems today. The webpage for your motherboard of choice would only present a clear white screen on my computer. I was able to look at all the other Asus motherboards but not yours specifically. About 5 to 6 pm, the problem went away.

If you will look at this url, you will see the specs for the motherboard H87-Pro (your mobo choice). Here is the url: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/H87PRO/#specifications

The onboard graphics support HDMI, DVI, RGB and Display Port; however, DVI and RGB only give you resolution of 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz and nothing at 24 cycles per sec. If you did not use a separate graphics card, then DVI and RGB would, probably, not fill your 29 inch monitor screen.

Your choice of graphics card does have a resolution that will fill your screen for DVI. That Zotac card only has DVI and HDMI outputs, two DVI and two HDMI outputs. Up to 2560 X 1600 resolution but only stated for Dual DVI. They do not mention the resolution for HDMI so I should find that out, specifically. They are in California, so I can call them in the morning.

The rest of the components should go fast in the morning; I assume I can wrap up my comments tomorrow am.

[zburns]

This is a quick summary of my comments on the rest of your build. I may add more comments to some of the items later today.

1. RAM -- just be certain that the RAM is compatible with the motherboard / cpu.

2. Hard Drive. As previously stated, please take a look at the Western Digital Black series of Hard Drives. WD Black warranty is 'across the board' 5 years, as far as I know !

3. Keyboard. I use Microsoft wireless keyboard and mouse for five years now. USB plug in receiver to front of case; receiver size from case front: 1.5 inches long, 5/16 inch thick, 3/4" wide.

4. Your graphics card choice is fine, probably. I qualify it only because it has 354 'stream processors' which will define the viewable 'frame rate' of the card. Based on the card description on the Zotac website, they seem to say that amount of stream processors does the job. Would not hurt to call them and confirm 'approximately' what the 'frame rate' of the card would be !

5. Your power supply is designed for high energy, high watts 'gaming' which you are not doing. If you go to the Cooler Website and look up this power supply, I do not think you will find on the +12 volt output, the amperage that the supply will or could deliver to your graphics card. The present graphics card will limit the amount of amperage because it does not need it. But if there is ever a short circuit or partial short, a large amount of amperage will flow thru a part of your system incl the graphics card and, probably, result in damage.

A better choice is an Antec power supply. Either an Earthwatts Antec PSU, 650 watt version, EA 650 Platinum or the True Power Gold TP-650 G. Earthwatts has 4 separate 12volt windings at 30 amp each; TP Gold, 4 plus 12 volt windings at 40 amp each. Probably the Earthwatts is sufficient; however, I would want to look at it in more detail.

The power supply you choose is the most important single component in your entire computer build. A single winding on the + 12 volt supply can be rated very high for gaming purposes. You do not need a gaming psu; not a good idea. The full story on the implications of a single winding +12 volt supply with high amperage is quite lengthy. Unless you are a 'gamer' there is no need for a single winding + 12 volt power supply.
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Let me know any questions regards the above comments, particularly on the power supply. If you stick with the present Zotac card, the Antec Earthwatts probably works fine but I would want to confirm it for certain.

By the way, I am looking at the Antec USA website, not the India site. Because of voltage differences, the India versions will be slightly different from the 'Input Voltage' side of the power supply but, probably no changes on the Secondary side of the power supply. Frequency plays a role also. Not sure what the frequency of India voltage system is, but any computer PSU ordered from a supply house in India will have voltage inputs that comply with 'voltages' and voltage frequency in India. Same rule for all other countries.