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thefman
11-01-2012, 11:53 PM
Greetings,

This is my first post here, so first of all, hi to everyone and thank in advance for your help.

This is not my first build, but it's by far the most expensive one I've ever made, so I would really like some tips if you can spare any :)

I'm a freelance graphic designer and web developer and also an avid gamer, so the computer needs to hold it's own at 1080p with best graphics for all new games (like ACIII, GTA V, etc.). I want it to at least have a good 3 or 4 year run. My current PC is 4 years old and still holds its own, but I want to upgrade before I need to.

So anyway, this is what I have so far:

ASUS Socket AM3/AMD 890FX/CrossFire​X/SATA 3.0 and USB 3.0/A and GbE/ATX Motherboard Crosshair IV Formula (http://www.amazon.com/CrossFireX-Motherboard-Crosshair-IV-Formula/dp/B003G40Z66/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=I2DAV8S29V07W)
$220

AMD FX-8150 8-Core Black Edition Processor Socket AM3+ FD8150FRGUBOX (http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FX-8150-Edition-Processor-FD8150FRGUBOX/dp/B005UBNLFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=I3CR6WBHJI6BLL)
$170

Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 DVI-I/HDMI/2x Mini-Displaypor​t PCI-Express Graphic Card GV-R795WF3-3GD (http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Mini-Displayport-PCI-Express-Graphic-GV-R795WF3-3GD/dp/B007581QHG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=I28E8VITXOO2O0)
$300

SAMSUNG 830 Series 2.5-Inch 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-7PC256B/WW (http://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7PC256B-WW/dp/B0077CR66A/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1351831423&sr=8-6&keywords=solid+state+drive)
$190

Western Digital Caviar Green 3 TB SATA III 64 MB Cache Bare/OEM Desktop Hard Drive - WD30EZRX (http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Caviar-Green-Desktop/dp/B004RORMF6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=I2BXYG7ZV0Y4OX)
$140

Corsair Memory Vengeance 16 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM CMZ16GX3M4A1600​C9 (http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Channel-240-Pin-CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9/dp/B004E0ZKLQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=I2F2S52HO6DCM1)
$79 x 2 (it's a 16gb pack, I'm going for 32gb)

Cooler Master Silent Pro M - 1000W 80 PLUS Bronze Power Supply with Modular Cables (RSA00-AMBAJ3-U​S) (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Silent-Pro-RSA00-AMBAJ3-US/dp/B002RWJGCM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=R7RMSOHSOW5E&coliid=IY1DAFTZK52DC)
$172

Total: $1271

I really like AMD, so I'm pretty fixed on that. I've used it since ever and it's never let me down. Also, I already have a HAF case and 3 monitors (one 3d LED Full HD, another Full HD and one more old LSD which someday I'll change). I'm also buying a new keyboard, mouse, etc. but nevermind that. Also I'm cannibalizing a X-FI 7.1 sound blaster card from my current pc, as well as BR drive, card reader, etc.

I don't want to go higher than 1500 if possible, since I plan to sell my current build at around $700.

So, what do you think? Am I missing something or is there something i should now?

Thank you very much in advance! :)

zburns
11-02-2012, 11:18 AM
Your GPU choice has these specs (part of System Requirements or specs): 500W (or greater) power supply with two 75W 6-pin PCI Express power connectors recommended
750W (or greater) power supply with four 75W 6-pin PCI Express power connectors Here is the url that gets you to system requirements: http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7950/Pages/radeon-7950.aspx#2

By buying a 1000 watt psu, you are planning to eventually go to Crossfire or SLI operation!! Otherwise a lesser wattage supply will work.
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Regards storage, check out the warranty for WD green 3 TB versus WD RE-4 Black. Black is 5 years, Green is 2 years -- makes a huge statement. I suggest you do not use 3TB -- too big a risk for loss. I would use lower max storage rate, and, back up all HD data 2 X times with separate HDs. In consideration of data that you definitely want to save.
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I will add some more psu comments later today.

thefman
11-02-2012, 12:30 PM
Thank you very much for your reply!

You are totally correct about the PSU. I had planned to crossfire but I'm not sure, so maybe I'll save some money on that for now.

Anyway, as it turns out, I did some more research (a lot of research actually) last night and found out some new parts that seem a lot better.

The video card is the next version (a whole $100 more but I think it's worth it):
Gigabyte AMD Radeon HD 7970 OC 3GB GDDR5 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00752QYLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

Now, this is the highest recommended MOBO for that CPU
ASUS Crosshair V Formula AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Republic of Gamers Series Motherboard (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00539LP34/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

ASUS recommended this RAM for that MOBO (times 2, so I get 16gb)
Corsair Vengeance Red 8GB (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056KUWS4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

So that's what's new. Should I go for 32gb of ram? Is it worth it?

Anyway, any more comments are always welcome!

Thanks!

zburns
11-02-2012, 01:14 PM
There is nothing wrong with buying the most expensive version of a model; it helps to know exactly why you think it is worth it. On this V later version versus the older IV version, the main difference I see is that 3 way SLI is supported by the more expensive version. But unless you really intend to use 3 way SLI, it is obviously not worth it. However, the only other rationale, is whether or not other 'circuit improvements' are included which make it desirable. You can only find that out by talking to Asus USA and asking Tech Support to tell you the significant differences between the two versions. If that person is being honest and is very knowledgeable, he will tell you or recommend 'for or against' making the jump to the later version.

If there is several years difference in the 'release date' of each board, that would be a serious reason to get the later version on the premise that Asus would have made 'beneficial circuit changes' in addition to the jump to 3 way SLI. But again, Asus has to tell you that most likely!
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RAM should, in general, be strictly the recommendation of the mobo mfg. If there are several choices try to determine the 'highest quality' versions and go that route. 16 GB should be fine.

The lowest number of sticks and the fewest 'chips' is more reliable (my limited experience). Sometimes it is best to call tech support of the manufacturer. Always tell them you want the best version from all aspects. There may be valid reasons not to buy the most expensive, but a conversation between you and a so called mfg expert (meaning tech support) can help. I have always had good experience with 'tech support' regardless of mfg. A good tech support person should be very responsive, accurate and 'truth telling' in giving you advice. (It is not their job to be a sales person)
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Once you settle on a video card, look for the card mfgs recommendation of max psu size, then add 75 to 100 watts minimum to their recommendation. You do not want to ever run a psu at or near max wattage for long time periods.

thefman
11-02-2012, 03:58 PM
Honestly I didn't take the time to compare the MOBOs, I just looked online for something like "the best MOBO for this CPU" and everywhere that one came up, but now that I read this I will investigate further into both of them.

About the RAM I thought exactly the same, the mfg must know what's best, but I never thought of asking tech support. That's a great idea! Also I didn't know about the less sticks thing... I actually thought it was the opposition (for no reason whatsoever, it just occurred to me). When I talk to tech I'll ask them for other options then, because that one only comes in 4gb sticks.

I think I'm going to stay with that video card, it seems pretty solid, so now I'll search for a decent PSU, but that's still the last of my worries...

By the way, totally unrelated, but I was planning on buying all this on the next 2 weeks and I just found out that that new Amazon "Worldwide delivery" doesn't include most computer parts, so it'll have to wait to February... Still, I need to know what I'll buy so I can make a budget and save the money.

Again thank you for the help!