Solid State Drive Considerations

[492commish]

I'm planning my next build and am intrigued by the idea of using a SSD to at least boot the operating platform and possibly run some of my most-used software, mainly Office stuff.

But let's just say I will go with the boot part for a start. I'm not computer savvy enough to know how to setup the computer beyond the traditional single hard drive system. When people talk of "partitioning" and other such things, my eyes cross.

What I'd like to be able to do is hit the box's power button and have a very quick boot up, and not have to go through additional keystrokes to navigate around.

Will a SSD do that for me? And where can I research to gain confidence in what I need and how I'll set it up (configure, etc.)?

- Phil, Sherwood, Oregon

[zburns]

Go to this URL in Rob's online 'Computer Build Instructions' and, you can get a good answer to your question!! Here's the URL: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_bios_settings.shtml Scan down to 'Advanced BIOS Features' and read from that point on. (Nothing wrong with reading the whole page, but Adv BIOS is where your answer is).

Rob's book is more detailed (I think) than the On Line instructions. I used the book back in 2008. Build went great. No mistakes. Worked perfect first try! Used excellent Static Control methods, by the way. As soon as very cold dry weather sets in, static discharge becomes a big problem and must be dealt with properly.

[492commish]

I've been studying that section. While I can't seem to find specific reference to SSDs, it makes sense that BIOS will have to tell the system the source of boot info.

That being said, what I'm trying to understand is what happens when I press the power button? I assume the BIOS will have been set up to point at the SSD, then after everything is booted, how might I have set up the system so that when I launch some software, say MS Word, that will also be pulled from the SSD but when a particular document icon is double-clicked, it launches the software from the SSD and grabs the document itself from the HD? I obviously don't have a higher level understanding of system architecture/capabilities.

[zburns]

It is really a simple process, and it is in Rob's book in some detail. I am sure you can find the topic online via Google. Your motherboard book will tell you how or what to do.

When you go thru your BIOS and make the choices that you have to make in the BIOS setup, one of the first items you come too, is to designate a 'boot drive'. This can be a totally physically separate drive such as the SSD or a 'partition of a drive such as a hard drive'. You load the 'boot' drive with all the software necessary to 'boot' up your computer. Your OS is one big item you install on the 'boot' drive. Again, your manual will walk you thru setting up the boot drive.

In my case some four years ago, I partitioned my hard drive into two segments. The first partition was called the 'boot drive' and I loaded some instructions and most important the OS on the 'boot' drive. The other partition was what was left over on the entire hard drive which I have been saving stuff on since the build in 2008.

The motherboard manual instructs the user how to do all this; but it is foreign to the new builder for the first time but you get thru it ok.

Hope this helps!!

[492commish]

One other thought related to SSDs: If I am not a gamer, engineer, or have any other requirements for significant storage other than Microsoft Office files (which include lots of 5-15 mb PowerPoint files) and my camera images, what about installing a 128 gb SSD as my primary drive, and one additional SSD as the drive which stores my files? I realize that this will cost more, but I'm thinking the speed gains would be worth it.

Thoughts?

[zburns]

Below is a partial answer I wrote this am to your question. I hesitated to post it then because it really did not explain how I see the subject from a 'best perspective' viewpoint. So take a look at my additional comments below 'this mornings comment'!!

(AM comment) It is not the 'speed gains' that you should be concerned with, rather, something close to 'foolproof' protection of your files. The desire to use SSDs as permanent 'storage sources' should be investigated thoroughly by yourself with the goal being solid documented proof that your system of 'only SSD storage' will 100 % protect your data not only against 'normal SSD degradation (time related failure), but against a catastrophic failure such as a 'lighting strike' on your power line. Such a strike might take out an SSD but leave unharmed the mechanical hard drive. I am probably exaggerating above, but when you want 'absolutely fail safe protection', at least statistically, you have to consider all possibilities no matter how remote or 'silly sounding'. (End of AM comment)

What I am really trying to say is that there is not a precise answer to your question. My suggestion is that you take a look at this Tom's Hardware article, entitled: 'Investigation: Is Your SSD More Reliable Than A Hard Drive?'
Here is the URL for the article: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-reliability-failure-rate,2923.html It is a nine page article and pretty well written.

Personally I would not consider what you are suggesting. Right now, ideally, if I wanted total protection and protection, inherently foolproof, I would store all my back up data on two separate and independant mechanical hard drives. I have not thought it out completely, but I might have one inside the case and a separate 'outside' drive that I backed up independent of all other drives on a daily basis.

My comment about 'lighting' is valid. For home use your incoming 'surge protector' will stop a lot of power company dangerous voltage surges, but there is no 100% guarantee of 'perfect' protection over a long time period of years. If you used only SSDs in your system (including the backup), I assume a really bad voltage surge could overcome your 'surge protector' and cause damage. I will say this differently. A lighting strike of dangerous proportions is theoretically possible. If such a strike hit a home and created a large instantaneous voltage surge, and the computer was plugged in via a surge protector, it is entirely possible for the 'surge' to 'jump' thru the 'surge protector' and take out the computer.

Any SSDs are just as likely to be ruined assuming other solid state components like a video card or motherboard are ruined. This is the reason I mentioned a separate 'outside the case backup hard drive that you back up with daily or every several days or once a week, etc. This particular 'outside drive' you do not leave plugged in.

Logically, to me, this is the ultimate in almost certain foolproof protection for data. When you read articles about this subject and, this following comment may be in the Tom's article, references to 'servers' and other high end computers using many SSDs are typically in 'very large or sophisticated installations' -- which means they are industrial sites, government sites, etc. -- very large physical installations -- which in the planning have elaborate and expensive 'means' to prevent voltage surges from hitting expensive large computer installations.

A crude but foolproof method of backing up the home computer is to have a back up drive inside the computer for auto backup, but also, an outside drive that is isolated from the voltage plug (until it is used) that the operator manually on a routine basis backs up the Hard Drive Data. I guess in such a situation you could use SSDs as you propose but keep a mechanical portable type HD outside the computer to manually back up daily or weekly; but you still would use a drive (HD or SSD) inside for backup also.

When you read the Tom's article or just 'google' the topic, you will probably see a lot of 'business' or 'industrial' type responses, as in 'SSDs 100% used on servers' (this is in the Tom's article or I read it off the Google page). Such an article does not neccessarily apply to home computers because there is no way -- a 'home computer owner' can match the sophistication and cost of 'industrial surge voltage protection'.

[JeffAHayes19]

I'd go with a BIGGER SSD for boot and programs (having had hoggy Windows practically fill up my current 80GB drive), and I DEFINITELY agree with a second, fast mechanical drive for data... Maybe a 10,000 RPM WD Velociraptor, if they're still making those (haven't checked since I bought my last). SATA 3 (6Gbps) for all drives, if your MB supports it (and you can buy add-on cards if it doesn't). I paid $169.99 for the highly-rated 256GB ADATA SX900 (mounting bracket included -- had to actually wait half a week while I ordered and awaited a mounting bracket for my 80GB Intel drive in 2009 -- didn't know I needed one until I opened the tiny drive and saw it wouldn't fit a 3.5" slot).

As for disk partitions, I used to think that was some sort of Greek, as well, until I formatted a disk at system installation and saw just how many options you have (and there are already about three hidden partitions you never even see). These days, even if your disk is already formatted, if it has spare room on it you can easily go into the Windows Format command and create additional partitions on the same disk for whatever purpose you wish... Couldn't be easier!

Best of luck!
Jeff

[JeffAHayes19]

When you read the Tom's article or just 'google' the topic, you will probably see a lot of 'business' or 'industrial' type responses, as in 'SSDs 100% used on servers' (this is in the Tom's article or I read it off the Google page). Such an article does not neccessarily apply to home computers because there is no way -- a 'home computer owner' can match the sophistication and cost of 'industrial surge voltage protection'.

That's true, HOWEVER if rather than just getting a standard "surge suppressor," you get a combination UPS/line conditioner, it ups your chances a good bit, I think. I use two of them and have NEVER unplugged my system and had no discernable damage (unless some of the glitches I've discussed elsewhere could be related). IF it's a direct lightning strike... FORGET IT. If it hits the power TO YOUR HOME... FORGET IT! Unless you really DO have serious lightning rods and other measures, the PC will be one of a long list of electronics ready for the garbage can, including TVs, radios, and possibly even refrigerators and dishwashers. But for $80 you can get a UPS/line conditioner at Costco with the "lightning guarantee," for what that's worth. That's one of my two. I believe the UPS capacity on it is 1,000 watts, but I don't have the documentation handy -- could be a bit less. I know I plugged my 55" LCD TV and DISH receiver box into two of its UPS ports and the TV runs JUST FINE for several minutes after a power outage. Computer keeps going equally strong on the other.

I would DEFINITELY have a backup of the original system installation saved elsewhere (BD, external drive, etc.), made JUST AFTER the system is formatted and Windows loaded, as a "just-in-case." As for other software, if you bought it in a box, keep the box and disks (I'm on my third computer with the same copy of MS Office 2003), and software you downloaded -- especially if you PAID for it -- have the original installation software, plus all your activation documentation stored in a secondary location, as well. I've got enough external drives at this point that I've just put stuff like that one one and stuck it in a closet.

SAFE is NEVER sorry.
Jeff