First PC Build

[zolik]

This is my first build and I am looking for some guidance. I just want to make sure that the parts I've chosen do not conflict or are just wrong all together. Any advice is appreciated!

Processor: AMD FX-4100 Zambezi 3.6GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor FD4100WMGUSBX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16819103996

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16813128519

Power Supply: CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 V2 600W Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817139028

Cooling: CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835181015

Video Card: EVGA 02G-P3-1559-KR GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi) 2GB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814130652

HardDrive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16822152185

RAM: Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Red Limited Edition
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820104292

Case: COOLER MASTER Elite 311 RC-311B-RWN1 Red Computer Case With Side Panel Window
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16811119249

Note: With any changes new changes I am trying to keep it under $750.

[zburns]

Hi zolik and welcome to the forums,

A couple of suggestions:

(1) When you choose RAM, it is best to be certain that the RAM mfg part # is on the Memory Support List for the chosen motherboard. I looked on the Mem Support List for your Gbyte mobo, and could not find your particular Kingston part #. I suggest you take a look, see if you agree with my finding. If so, I suggest you pick a Kingston Ram part # from that list, and then I will double check that choice.

(2) Next the psu. The Corsair psu does not have specifications spelled out in the same manner as some other psu manufacturers such as Antec. Here are two urls, one for Corsair specs and one for a Antec psu: Antec first, http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704511&fid=11 and Corsair next, http://www.corsair.com/builder-series-cx600-v2-80plus-certified-power-supply.html Take a look and see if you agree with my comments!!!

EDIT 2:15 pm EST: The Antec specs clearly spell out in detail the features (detailed specifications) of the Antec Power Supply. Take any Antec 'single spec' and go try to find the similar spec for the Corsair choice.

Another benefit of the method Antec uses for displaying specifications, is the clarity of the individual specs. A novice can understand a lot from the Antec detailed specs and use this knowledge to compare other specs. On Antec's better power supplies they use 4 + 12 volt rails which allow the builder to put the cpu, video card, motherboard on separated rails with their own OCP trip points (overcurrent trip points), the 'ampere' level at which a particular rail will shut down.

Many desktop power supplies have only one rail, which means all currents for individual components are added together resulting in a very large (relative to the 4 rail designs) OCP. The 'overcurrent' trip point of a single rail power supply is much larger than that of a 4 rail power supply.

(3) Two comments on the case.

First, the front panel USB ports are USB 2.0. Your motherboard has an internal connection block for USB 3.0 and 2.0. This means your motherboard will accept a cable from the front panel USB ports that is either a USB 3.0 connection or 2.0 connection. New USB devices are most likely to be USB 3.0 because usb 3.0 is faster. It is sort of a minor point until you really have a USB 3.0 device that you really want to plug into the front of the case . If the case has only USB 2.0 ports only, this means that any USB 3.0 device you want to use will have to be plugged into the motherboard rear port panel that pokes thru the back of the case.

Second, I do not trust using a case that cost under about $ 75. I do not see how a case for under $ 50 can match the quality in the $ 75 to $ 100 case. I admit this is a vague criticism but without seeing the case, I can only guess. Screw connections that use 'PEM' nuts are failure safe. You do not have a specification that details the 'fasteners', or lack thereof, inside the case. Look for multiple reviews on the case, at least two or three and compare the reviews for more expensive cases.

Other than the above, I think your choices look fine!!