Antec III Sonata Panel Connectors with MSI P67A-GD65(B3) LGA 1155

[ItsPureLuck]

Hi everybody,

This is my first time building a PC and I've pretty much gotten all my parts from the recommended list on the main page. Everything has been pretty smoothe up until reaching these damn panel connectors! The guide on the site for assembly is for a different motherboard that seems to do a better job of telling you where to connect the Power SW, Reset SW, and the LED connectors etc. Even checking the manual, I'm still not sure what goes where except for the speaker connector (I think I got it right). Even googling hasn't availed to me much. Does anybody with this motherboard know where these connect to on this motherboard? It just doesn't seem very clear (to me at least) and it's frustrating because this is the only part that has troubled me so far.

[RickyTick]

I can't help you with this particular problem, but Zburns has the Sonata III case and I'm sure he can help. Stay tuned, he'll be around here very soon...

[ItsPureLuck]

I can't help you with this particular problem, but Zburns has the Sonata III case and I'm sure he can help. Stay tuned, he'll be around here very soon...

Thank you for letting me know this. This thing is driving me crazy.

[zburns]

Hello, 'ItsPureLuck', welcome to the forums.

I apologize for being so late checking in on the 'forums' tonight. It will be in the morning early before I can tackle this in detail. I have to access your MCI manual online, and, that is sometimes a problem getting it to download; I just tried it and it would not connect. I have a feeling the area I am trying to connect with is Taiwan and the internet traffic is at a peak right now.

I am going to give you a description of the cables coming out the front panel of my Sonata III. Please confirm back that your cables are identical to what I describe.

I have three 'twisted pair' cables that consist of two colored wires each. One pair with white/green wires. One pair with white/blue wires. One pair with orange/black wires. I have a 'flat' cable composed of four wires side by side. Wire colors of this flat cable are green, black, red, black in that order. (The cable is flat, one wire thick, the four wires essentially glued together in a 'flat configuration').

Next I have another flat cable, black in color, about the same physical size of the previous 4 wire cable with the colored wires I just described in previous paragraph. Printed on the cable is 'Serial ATA cable Copartner' -- these words do not mean anything -- just trying to identify the cable -- it is a long cable with a molded black plug on the end of it.

Last I have two round black cables with very small diameter wires coming out of the end of each of the cables, each wire about 1/32 inch diameter.

Everything I described comes out of the front panel about half way up the front panel on the non-removable side of the cabinet. Just tell me that we are lucky and that you have the same 'seven total' cables. If the wire colors match, please confirm. Do not worry about what is on the other end of the cables right now -- we can probably avoid getting into all the plug details.

Hopefully, we are lucky, and your cables match mine, identically. If they do not, I will come up with another idea to deal with it.

I should be able to download the manual in the morning and give you a clearer explanation than is in the Antec manual. Again, sorry for the delay, but we will get you going asap!!

[ItsPureLuck]

Hello, 'ItsPureLuck', welcome to the forums.

I apologize for being so late checking in on the 'forums' tonight. It will be in the morning early before I can tackle this in detail. I have to access your MCI manual online, and, that is sometimes a problem getting it to download; I just tried it and it would not connect. I have a feeling the area I am trying to connect with is Taiwan and the internet traffic is at a peak right now.

I am going to give you a description of the cables coming out the front panel of my Sonata III. Please confirm back that your cables are identical to what I describe.

I have three 'twisted pair' cables that consist of two colored wires each. One pair with white/green wires. One pair with white/blue wires. One pair with orange/black wires. I have a 'flat' cable composed of four wires side by side. Wire colors of this flat cable are green, black, red, black in that order. (The cable is flat, one wire thick, the four wires essentially glued together in a 'flat configuration').

Next I have another flat cable, black in color, about the same physical size of the previous 4 wire cable with the colored wires I just described in previous paragraph. Printed on the cable is 'Serial ATA cable Copartner' -- these words do not mean anything -- just trying to identify the cable -- it is a long cable with a molded black plug on the end of it.

Last I have two round black cables with very small diameter wires coming out of the end of each of the cables, each wire about 1/32 inch diameter.

Everything I described comes out of the front panel about half way up the front panel on the non-removable side of the cabinet. Just tell me that we are lucky and that you have the same 'seven total' cables. If the wire colors match, please confirm. Do not worry about what is on the other end of the cables right now -- we can probably avoid getting into all the plug details.

Hopefully, we are lucky, and your cables match mine, identically. If they do not, I will come up with another idea to deal with it.

I should be able to download the manual in the morning and give you a clearer explanation than is in the Antec manual. Again, sorry for the delay, but we will get you going asap!!


Thank you for the response zburns. I'm at work now so I can't check at the moment, but off the top of my head those twisted pair cables sound right, I'll check on the others when I get home, but I believe we are in luck!

[ItsPureLuck]

Ok, here is what I have. 3 twisted pairs, the white/green is the Power SW connector, the white/blue is the Reset SW and the orange/black is the speaker (I believe this one connects to JCD1 right below JAUD1, but I could be wrong?).

I also have the 'flat' cable in the green, black, red, black coloring order. Starting with the green, they are labeled Power LED +, Power LED-, and the red/black are fused together and are labeled H.D.D. LED.

I do have a cable that says Serial ATA (doesn't say cable copartner...at least that I can see) and it has the molded plug. It was tied together with the final two cable cables, which are a bit thicker until you get to the wires with the plugs. One is multicolored and is for USB, the other is also multicolored but it has 2 plugs in it. The main one is labeled HDA and goes right into the cable, while the other plug is labeled AC'97 and goes into the HDA plug itself.

[zburns]

I picked up your post about an hour ago, 6:30pm. I am dealing with the AC 97 or HD Audio choices first. I think you should use whichever one that your BIOS is factory set for; OR whichever one your manual tells you the BIOS is set for. -- Do not make a big deal out of this connection. I have had mine set on both settings, but I have an ASUS mobo and my manual clearly tells me how to do either one. I have your manual on line. So far I cannot see that anything in the manual says 'factory set to 'so and so'. However, as I said a few words ago, your BIOS will be already 'default set' to one or the other -- so the BIOS setting can tell you which plug on the cable to use -- AC97 or HD Audio -- you can only use one of them -- the other one you will just let hang in mid air. (These two plugs I refer too are connected together by four very small wires, colored black, green, white and red) Each plug housing is labeled with a specific audio type label, AC97 or HD Audio).

OK where does the plug go. At the bottom left of your motherboard as you look into the case (case standing on its feet), the furthermost left hand male connector mounted on the motherboard, JAUD1. Look in your manual for a layout of the motherboard -- this connector in bottom left corner, again, labeled JAUD1 on the drawing in the manual (may or may not be on the mobo).

Let me know any questions. I will answer them 'inside' this post as a 'EDIT' -- this way I will keep confusion down by not mixing other items with this audio comment. I will have another post asap.

[zburns]

This post will be about the USB front panel plugs. On the audio stuff in the previous post, one of the two round black cables with small wires and TWO black plugs coming out the end was the 'topic of conversation'. NOW the other similar round black cable but with only one plug (should have a printed label USB on it) is the one this post describes. Go to the motherboard layout diagram once more. Look along the bottom for 'JUSB1' connector. The round cable with the single 10 pin total, 5 pins per side (not all are used) plug goes into the 'JUSB1' connector. This takes care of both of the front panel USB female plugs. This completes this post.

[zburns]

This post will use all three of the twisted pairs, and also, the flat cable with four wires, colors green, black, red and then black. Here are the motherboard connectors, the just mentioned wires will plug into, 'JFP1' and 'JFP2'. They are located on the right hand side of the mobo near the bottom of the mobo (I am using the Quick Components Guide from your manual. JFP1 is a 9 pin (one pin missing) connector and is closest to the bottom right corner of the mobo -- note that JFP1 is '5 pins long, two pins wide'. JFP2 is a 7 pin (again, one pin missing) and is directly above JFP1. JFP2 is two pins wide and four pins long (again, one pin missing).

Okay, you need to tell me what plugs Antec furnished on each end of the three twisted pairs, white/green, white/blue and orange/black. Same thing on the flat cable with four wires green,black,red,black in that order -- cable is flat as if the wires are glued side by side together.

(Even if it appears that the plugs on the Antec cables will not fit, go ahead and describe them. In my case, what Antec supplied would not fit, but ASUS supplied a 'interim mating connector to go between the Antec plugs and the Asus motherboard.)

Note: Since the connectors on motherboard are two pins wide, this means Antec could furnish a two pin plug but would only occupy 'a length of one pin' inside the connector. Antec could supply a 4 pin plug but only two pins in length, or a 6 pin plug but only three pins long.

----------------------------
The above accounts for all wires but the long black cable with the molded plug. I will have to research this for a little bit of time. I will post this last one, maybe tonight if it goes quick, but early morning at the latest.

[ItsPureLuck]

This post will use all three of the twisted pairs, and also, the flat cable with four wires, colors green, black, red and then black. Here are the motherboard connectors, the just mentioned wires will plug into, 'JFP1' and 'JFP2'. They are located on the right hand side of the mobo near the bottom of the mobo (I am using the Quick Components Guide from your manual. JFP1 is a 9 pin (one pin missing) connector and is closest to the bottom right corner of the mobo -- note that JFP1 is '5 pins long, two pins wide'. JFP2 is a 7 pin (again, one pin missing) and is directly above JFP1. JFP2 is two pins wide and four pins long (again, one pin missing).

Okay, you need to tell me what plugs Antec furnished on each end of the three twisted pairs, white/green, white/blue and orange/black. Same thing on the flat cable with four wires green,black,red,black in that order -- cable is flat as if the wires are glued side by side together.

(Even if it appears that the plugs on the Antec cables will not fit, go ahead and describe them. In my case, what Antec supplied would not fit, but ASUS supplied a 'interim mating connector to go between the Antec plugs and the Asus motherboard.)

Note: Since the connectors on motherboard are two pins wide, this means Antec could furnish a two pin plug but would only occupy 'a length of one pin' inside the connector. Antec could supply a 4 pin plug but only two pins in length, or a 6 pin plug but only three pins long.

----------------------------
The above accounts for all wires but the long black cable with the molded plug. I will have to research this for a little bit of time. I will post this last one, maybe tonight if it goes quick, but early morning at the latest.


First of all, thank you for all the help so far!

The plugs for the twisted pairs are like this: both the blue/white and green white are 2 pins long by 1 pin wide with the black and orange plug being 4 pins long by 1 pin wide (as I said before, I'm fairly sure this goes into JCD1 right below JAUD1, but I'm probably totally wrong).

The green/black/red/black cable has 2 pins long 1 pin wide for the red/black cable (they are fused together) and the remaining black and green plugs are both 1 pin long by 1 pin wide.

[zburns]

Based on your feedback, I would think, the three twisted pair will go in the JFP1 plug for the mating socket. The flat cable will go into the JFP2 plug for that mating socket. But what I still have to do is get the right female pins in the right location for the pins in the sockets. I will have to make a drawing showing pin locations on the two motherboard connectors, then line up the sockets in the plugs based on the mating pin locations.

I will have to do this in the morning when I am clear headed. Way too tired right now. But it has to all come together perfectly, as a 'proof' that there is no error anywhere. As I said earlier, the long cable with molded plug is easy to figure out -- just a little time.

[ItsPureLuck]

Based on your feedback, I would think, the three twisted pair will go in the JFP1 plug for the mating socket. The flat cable will go into the JFP2 plug for that mating socket. But what I still have to do is get the right female pins in the right location for the pins in the sockets. I will have to make a drawing showing pin locations on the two motherboard connectors, then line up the sockets in the plugs based on the mating pin locations.

I will have to do this in the morning when I am clear headed. Way too tired right now. But it has to all come together perfectly, as a 'proof' that there is no error anywhere. As I said earlier, the long cable with molded plug is easy to figure out -- just a little time.

I really appreciate that! I'm also off to bed, have to be at work in the AM but I'm really happy with the progress I've made with your help: google didn't yield much unforunately. This roadblock was my biggest concern as well, I think it should be smoothe sailing after this.

[RickyTick]

Zburns sure is handy to have around.
Thanks from me too Z.
Great job as usual.

[ARchamps]

Those connections from the case to the motherboard can be tricky to figure out. There doesn't seem to be any standard labeling and can cause confusion. Hope you got it figured! Zburns is on point, as usual!

[zburns]

We have to do this working together, one step at a time; at least we should try it this way.
Here is your last post (If I leave out something, that means it is incorrect):

The plugs for the twisted pairs are like this: both the blue/white and green white are 2 pins long by 1 pin wide with the black and orange plug being 4 pins long by 1 pin wide.

The green/black/red/black cable has 2 pins long 1 pin wide for the red/black cable and the remaining black and green plugs are both 1 pin long by 1 pin wide.

From the previous sentence this comment -- "they are fused together" (red and black wires) -- please re check this carefully, my Antec plug for these two wires is one pin thick and two pins wide with red and black wires in separate holes or slots. ( I am not saying you are wrong, I just want you to double check it since mine are different -- if yours are fused together I will need to make an 'assumption' as to why and we will proceed. If they are fused together Antec did it on purpose.)

Other than this comment, your post is correct (other than your choice of mobo plugs on page 2-17).
-----------------------
The plugs you will be using are on page 2-14, JFP1 and JFP2. Only the orange - black wires in the 4 pin long by one pin wide plug will be used for JFP2 -- the left side as you look at the picture. The 4 pin long plug will or should have 'speaker' in white letters on the side of the 4 pin plug that will face outward, so it can be seen after the plug with wires is pushed onto the mobo mating plug JFP2. The remainder of the wires and smaller plugs will go on JFP1.
----------
General Comment:
All of these miniature plugs will have in white letters, some label on one side of the plug. Antec means for these white letters to 'show themselves' after they are plugged in. This means that you will not push a plug in so that the 'white lettering' faces towards the center -- and a opposite plug -- thereby, preventing 'one' from seeing the plug lettering just by looking inside the case. But the lettering (really the +/- polarity of the plug) on the plug will have to agree 100 % with the picture of the plug on page 2-14. In this case we are talking about JFP1 (there is a perspective diagram of the plug, polarities, nomenclature, etc -- we have to be 100 % correct and the plug lettering showing to the outside)

So, like I first said, I think it best we do this one step at a time. It is only a couple of plugs -- but it will really be time consuming to 'weed' out a mistake or error going back and forth with 'posts'.

Get back to me asap. It is 3:30 pm EST. I will probably have all my end written out in the next two hours worse case. EDIT: -- Second thoughts. I think I can give you the rest of 'it' in the next post, at least I will try it that way.

[ItsPureLuck]

We have to do this working together, one step at a time; at least we should try it this way.
Here is your last post (If I leave out something, that means it is incorrect):

The plugs for the twisted pairs are like this: both the blue/white and green white are 2 pins long by 1 pin wide with the black and orange plug being 4 pins long by 1 pin wide.

The green/black/red/black cable has 2 pins long 1 pin wide for the red/black cable and the remaining black and green plugs are both 1 pin long by 1 pin wide.

From the previous sentence this comment -- "they are fused together" (red and black wires) -- please re check this carefully, my Antec plug for these two wires is one pin thick and two pins wide with red and black wires in separate holes or slots. ( I am not saying you are wrong, I just want you to double check it since mine are different -- if yours are fused together I will need to make an 'assumption' as to why and we will proceed. If they are fused together Antec did it on purpose.)

Other than this comment, your post is correct (other than your choice of mobo plugs on page 2-17).
-----------------------
The plugs you will be using are on page 2-14, JFP1 and JFP2. Only the orange - black wires in the 4 pin long by one pin wide plug will be used for JFP2 -- the left side as you look at the picture. The 4 pin long plug will or should have 'speaker' in white letters on the side of the 4 pin plug that will face outward, so it can be seen after the plug with wires is pushed onto the mobo mating plug JFP2. The remainder of the wires and smaller plugs will go on JFP1.
----------
General Comment:
All of these miniature plugs will have in white letters, some label on one side of the plug. Antec means for these white letters to 'show themselves' after they are plugged in. This means that you will not push a plug in so that the 'white lettering' faces towards the center -- and a opposite plug -- thereby, preventing 'one' from seeing the plug lettering just by looking inside the case. But the lettering (really the +/- polarity of the plug) on the plug will have to agree 100 % with the picture of the plug on page 2-14. In this case we are talking about JFP1 (there is a perspective diagram of the plug, polarities, nomenclature, etc -- we have to be 100 % correct and the plug lettering showing to the outside)

So, like I first said, I think it best we do this one step at a time. It is only a couple of plugs -- but it will really be time consuming to 'weed' out a mistake or error going back and forth with 'posts'.

Get back to me asap. It is 3:30 pm EST. I will probably have all my end written out in the next two hours worse case. EDIT: -- Second thoughts. I think I can give you the rest of 'it' in the next post, at least I will try it that way.

On my way home from work now: will give you a response ASAP when I get home!

[ItsPureLuck]

My bad- I guess fused was the wrong word. What I meant to say was the red/black pair share the same plug (labeled H.D.D LED). Not sure why I said fused to be honest

[zburns]

Not a problem. Means no mistakes so far and good communication. Be back hopefully in an hour with the rest of it in one post.

[zburns]

Not a problem. Means no mistakes so far and good communication. Be back hopefully in an hour with the rest of it in one post.

Double check this. It is the first of the additional wiring layout. It is a repeat from the above long post.
The 4 pin long plug will or should have 'speaker' in white letters on the side of the 4 pin plug that will face outward, so it can be seen after the plug with wires is pushed onto the mobo mating plug JFP2. The remainder of the wires and smaller plugs will go on JFP1.

If you look at page 2-14 in your manual, the right side plug, JFP2, the word 'Speaker' bracketing pins 2 and 8. Pin 2 has a minus (-) polarity and pin 8 is plus (+). Regardless of what I said about the white letters, the black wire of the black/orange twisted pair must go on the +terminal, pin 8, and the orange on the minus terminal, pin 2. Hopefully, the 4 pin plug with only two wires, orange and black has a + mark beside the black wire and a minus mark beside the orange wire. Pin 8 is plus, pin 2 is minus.

If the black plastic pin housings with the twisted pairs and the flat cable have polarity markings on them ( + or - ), then those markings should match up polarity markings on the JFP2 socket mounted to the mobo. (This statement regardless of my earlier white letter 'rule'). My Sonata case is about four or five years old, so something could be different today. Your components and your manual are roughly the same age, so the polaritys shown on your components should match the polarities shown in the mobo manual.

Should be done with mobo board plug JFP2. In the next post I will give you the two twisted pair plug connections and two black flat cable connections, four connections total, all on JFP1.

[zburns]

From your previous post one page back. Wanted it inside this post. Here it is: The plugs for the twisted pairs are like this: both the blue/white and green white are 2 pins long by 1 pin wide with the black and orange plug being 4 pins long by 1 pin wide. (I removed your part in paranthesis because it was not correct)

The green/black/red/black cable has a plug 2 pins long 1 pin wide for the red/black cable (they are fused together) and the remaining black and green plugs are both 1 pin long by 1 pin wide. [ (they are fused together) this short phrase is also not correct].

We used the twisted pair of black and orange in the last post. That leaves blue/white and green/white twisted pairs, each with a two pin long, one pin thick dimension. And it leaves the flat cable green-black-red-black.
-------------------
Below you can install 4 plugs, two wires each on mobo plug JFP1. (Really five plugs considering two one pin plugs are used.)

Blue/white to the reset switch. Blue is plus, white is minus. The plug is two pins high, one pin wide. Using the white/blue twisted pair w/plug, put it onto pin 7 (blue wire) and pin 5 (white wire). Hopefully, Reset is printed on the side of the black plug that faces outward.
-------------

Green/white to the power switch. Green is plus, white is minus. Plug is two pins high, one pin wide. Pin 6 is plus, use the green wire. Pin 8 is minus, use the white wire.
-------------
Flat ribbon cable, 4 wires, green, black, red, black in that order.

Green and black wires are already in a two pin long plug. The red wire is in a one pin by one pin plug. The final black wire also in a one by one pin plug. A total of three separate plugs. One with two wires. Two plugs with one wire each.
---
Two pin plug with green and black wire. Black goes on pin 2, green on pin 4.
-----
There are two single plugs, each with on wire left.

Red wire, single plug goes on pin 1.

Black wire, single plug goes on pin 3.
-----------
At this point, you should be complete on the front panel wiring. ( Over the next several hours I will review the above for errors. Do not hesitate to post an error if you see one or 'quesiton' anything I have said)

[ItsPureLuck]

The speaker plug ends up working in such a way that the 'speaker' label does in fact face out with the black plug in the + terminal and the orange plug in the - terminal.

The plastic pins don't say + or - for the twisted pairs or flat cables, but on the opposite side of the 'POWER SW', RESET SW labels etc. the colored wires tend to have a triangle where the white or black wire has a G.

[ItsPureLuck]

From your previous post one page back. Wanted it inside this post. Here it is: The plugs for the twisted pairs are like this: both the blue/white and green white are 2 pins long by 1 pin wide with the black and orange plug being 4 pins long by 1 pin wide. (I removed your part in paranthesis because it was not correct)

The green/black/red/black cable has a plug 2 pins long 1 pin wide for the red/black cable (they are fused together) and the remaining black and green plugs are both 1 pin long by 1 pin wide. [ (they are fused together) this short phrase is also not correct].

We used the twisted pair of black and orange in the last post. That leaves blue/white and green/white twisted pairs, each with a two pin long, one pin thick dimension. And it leaves the flat cable green-black-red-black.
-------------------
Below you can install 4 plugs, two wires each on mobo plug JFP1. (Really five plugs considering two one pin plugs are used.)

Blue/white to the reset switch. Blue is plus, white is minus. The plug is two pins high, one pin wide. Using the white/blue twisted pair w/plug, put it onto pin 7 (blue wire) and pin 5 (white wire). Hopefully, Reset is printed on the side of the black plug that faces outward.
-------------

Green/white to the power switch. Green is plus, white is minus. Plug is two pins high, one pin wide. Pin 6 is plus, use the green wire. Pin 8 is minus, use the white wire.
-------------
Flat ribbon cable, 4 wires, green, black, red, black in that order.

Green and black wires are already in a two pin long plug. The red wire is in a one pin by one pin plug. The final black wire also in a one by one pin plug. A total of three separate plugs. One with two wires. Two plugs with one wire each.
---
Two pin plug with green and black wire. Black goes on pin 2, green on pin 4.
-----
There are two single plugs, each with on wire left.

Red wire, single plug goes on pin 1.

Black wire, single plug goes on pin 3.
-----------
At this point, you should be complete on the front panel wiring. ( Over the next several hours I will review the above for errors. Do not hesitate to post an error if you see one or 'quesiton' anything I have said)

Thanks a ton for your help zburns. Got all the cables in (correctly) I believe. Going to try to move on to the next steps, will let you know how it pans out before I head to bed.

[ItsPureLuck]

Sorry if this is a double post, having trouble getting this to show apparently.

Anyways, good news is the plugs were apparently installed correctly. When I power on the computer, all the fans work and there is a row of lights on the motherboard that are light up in blue. The bad news is, no display to the monitor. Just a second after turning on the power, the computer gives off 3 quick beeps (the first 2 are the same pitch, the third is different). About 3 seconds after that, I get 5 quick beeps of the same pitch. The one thing I find odd is, in the 'How to Assemble' tutorial the plugs that are supposed to go into the videocard are PCI-E. I only have one PCI-E plug colored in black and yellow wires, however a plug labeled P3 with the same physical traits is attached to it so I'm assuming that's not the problem either.

[zburns]

Sorry to hear you have a problem. I have not seen a list of your components. Please post the cat #s asap; mainly the video card. I assume you have a earthwatts 500 watt supply; please confirm. Keyboard, mouse are they wireless? Did you have other USB devices hooked up, printer, etc..? I quickly read that MSI is famous for 'beeps' that count the USB devices in your system; those beeps initially may be nothing but that. But the 5 beeps, do not know without research.

Anyhow if you have not provided a complete component list, try to do first thing in the morning if you have time.

[ItsPureLuck]

I'm at work so I'll do the best I can - my components pretty much come from the recommended list. Not sure what the cat #'s are - I can try to look them up with google or even the amazon pages they are ordered from, but if it's physically on the card I won't be able to check until I get home. As for the USBS, I originally only had the keyboard and mouse plugged in, nothing else. Took them out and tried to boot again, got the same result.

Case - Antec Sonata III with 500-Watt power supply (It is Earthwatts 500 watt supply)

Processor - Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz

Motherboard - MSI P67A-GD65(B3) LGA 1155

RAM - Crucial Ballistix 8GB Kit (2x4GB) PC3-12800 DDR3

Video Card - EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1GB DDR5

The rest of these aren't installed but are just for reference

Sound Card - Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium PCI Express Sound Card

Hard Drive - Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 7200rpm SATA 3

CD/RW - Sony 24x SATA DVD RW/CDRW

[zburns]

Hopefully, this post is good news. I am assuming (hoping) that your hard drive has to be installed before the monitor will light up. I cannot tell you this for sure but from a design viewpoint, it is just as logical, if not more so, for the 'monitor design' and the video card to 'not operate in any way' unless both are being fed 'a logical signal' as a consequence of 'proper and intended software' being already loaded --complicated statement, but true. But if the HD is not installed, then the OS is not installed -- so there is no way to know or not to know if there exists a problem or not!!
-----------------

On a side note. I meant to ask you at the very beginning if you were using a wrist strap for static control. In the winter, in cold dry air, static is at its worst. You almost never know when you handle electronic components if 'you are transfering a static charge to the component or not'. The only way to be 'reasonably certain that you do not transfer a charge' is to wear a wrist strap designed for static control that is fastened (alligator clip) to the computer housing. Better still when you are building a computer, not only should you wear a wrist strap, but you need a small 'semi conductive pad' on the table with your components and cabinet. The components are typically in static equalizing plastic bags (the inside of the plastic bag is printed with 'a circuit board like semi resistive pattern' that serves to spread any 'charge' inside the bag around the bag -- and the component -- equally.

As you slide the component out of the bag, the component should land on a 'semi-conductive pad' of some kind. This semi conductive pad should be connected to a ground point on the case; your wrist strap is connected to the case. Hopefully, your body, the case and the pad are all at the same electrical potential --all the time, every time -- that you handle a component. Circuit boards with electrical components mounted to them should always be handled on the edges of the circuit board -- never touch a component mounted to a board -- pick a board up or to move it, turn it sideways, etc., always grip the board via the thin edge of the board. I pick up a circuit board by using the sides of two fingers pressing on opposite sides of the board -- always try to avoid putting a 'finger' or fingertip on the flat board surface. -- essentially, you play the odds hoping you prevail against 'damaging the board'.

When I mention 'pick up a board by the edges' -- I refer to sides of the fingers pressing against the fibreglass thin edge of a board -- example, pick up a RAM stick via the thumb and forefinger griping the 1/16" edges with the sides of each finger -- this is a bare minimum of 'flesh' touching the 'insulated' part of the circuit board -- never get near a IC chip, cap or resistor, etc.. Pick up motherboard using same method except it takes both hands but still just the edges of two fingers. Handle a video card by gripping a plastic 'fan housing' with just two fingers.

Static control is 'an effort in reducing dramatically' the odds of causing 'damage'.

[zburns]

Some quick advice. Do not be in a hurry to turn the power on. If you have 'unanswered questions' that you cannot figure out, better that you ask us on the forum before jumping in the deep end -- I am saying all this 'tongue in cheek'. No doubt you are excited and want to see the computer finished and working.

What I am referring to, below, is your earlier comment that you only have one PCI-E connector. Also, before I forget. Give me the exact EVGA cat # off the video card box, ASAP; want to make sure I am looking at the right card.

From your earlier post:
(1) The one thing I find odd is, in the 'How to Assemble' tutorial the plugs that are supposed to go into the videocard are PCI-E. (2) I only have one PCI-E plug colored in black and yellow wires, however a plug labeled P3 with the same physical traits is attached to it so I'm assuming that's not the problem either.

Your Earthwatts power supply is supposed to have 4 sata connectors and 2 PCI-E connectors coming out of the power supply. The first sentence above, (1) references two female plugs on the video card that will accept two PCI-E male plugs. Please confirm that this statement is correct. The second sentence (2), I am not sure what this means. Is this a cable that comes from the power supply with two PCI-E plugs on the end of the cable?

More questions. Are there one or two 6 pin female PCI-E receptacles on the video card, and, did you plug anything into either one of them?

-------------
I did a quick search of beep codes and saw one or two comments about two and five beeps. Five beeps related to video card -thats good. I have the URLs on two sites so I can go back to them if necessary. But try to clear up my questions above first.

[ItsPureLuck]

Some quick advice. Do not be in a hurry to turn the power on. If you have 'unanswered questions' that you cannot figure out, better that you ask us on the forum before jumping in the deep end -- I am saying all this 'tongue in cheek'. No doubt you are excited and want to see the computer finished and working.

What I am referring to, below, is your earlier comment that you only have one PCI-E connector. Also, before I forget. Give me the exact EVGA cat # off the video card box, ASAP; want to make sure I am looking at the right card.

From your earlier post:

Your Earthwatts power supply is supposed to have 4 sata connectors and 2 PCI-E connectors coming out of the power supply. The first sentence above, (1) references two female plugs on the video card that will accept two PCI-E male plugs. Please confirm that this statement is correct. The second sentence (2), I am not sure what this means. Is this a cable that comes from the power supply with two PCI-E plugs on the end of the cable?

More questions. Are there one or two 6 pin female PCI-E receptacles on the video card, and, did you plug anything into either one of them?

-------------
I did a quick search of beep codes and saw one or two comments about two and five beeps. Five beeps related to video card -thats good. I have the URLs on two sites so I can go back to them if necessary. But try to clear up my questions above first.

Sorry- Had to go out after work and just got home. Will answer these asap.

[ItsPureLuck]

Some quick advice. Do not be in a hurry to turn the power on. If you have 'unanswered questions' that you cannot figure out, better that you ask us on the forum before jumping in the deep end -- I am saying all this 'tongue in cheek'. No doubt you are excited and want to see the computer finished and working.

What I am referring to, below, is your earlier comment that you only have one PCI-E connector. Also, before I forget. Give me the exact EVGA cat # off the video card box, ASAP; want to make sure I am looking at the right card.

From your earlier post:

Your Earthwatts power supply is supposed to have 4 sata connectors and 2 PCI-E connectors coming out of the power supply. The first sentence above, (1) references two female plugs on the video card that will accept two PCI-E male plugs. Please confirm that this statement is correct. The second sentence (2), I am not sure what this means. Is this a cable that comes from the power supply with two PCI-E plugs on the end of the cable?

More questions. Are there one or two 6 pin female PCI-E receptacles on the video card, and, did you plug anything into either one of them?

-------------
I did a quick search of beep codes and saw one or two comments about two and five beeps. Five beeps related to video card -thats good. I have the URLs on two sites so I can go back to them if necessary. But try to clear up my questions above first.

Ok, I can't find anything that says cat # on the box but...I believe the S/N is 1112231461007648. Here is the direct link to it on amazon, where I bought it: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0050I1PH4/qid=1008036386/sr=8-4/mysuperpc-20

What I meant with the statement about the plugs is the PCI-E plug has wires coming out of it and going into another plug labeled P3. This P3 plug has the same physical characteristics as the PCI-E, it simply is labeled P3 and instead of wires coming right out of the power supply, it's wires are coming out of the PCI-E plug itself. Also, bundled with these 2 plugs is a seemingly random 2 pin wid x 1 pin thick plug that has no label. It is held together with the PCI-E wires though and there is a ribbon holding them together that says "8PIN PCI (EXPRESS)" all around it.

There are exactly 2 6 pin female connectors for PCI-E and I did indeed plug the PCI-E and P3 plugs into them when I attempted my first boot.

Also, I installed my HD (I'm fairly sure it was correctly) and nothing changed. Still the 5 beeps shortly after being turned on with no signal to the monitor.

As for static, I did use an anti static pad, but I didn't have a wrist strap. I made sure to touch the inside of the case to ground myself. Never once felt a shock touching any of the parts.

[zburns]

Let me explain your following para first:

What I meant with the statement about the plugs is the PCI-E plug has wires coming out of it and going into another plug labeled P3. This P3 plug has the same physical characteristics as the PCI-E, it simply is labeled P3 and instead of wires coming right out of the power supply, it's wires are coming out of the PCI-E plug itself. Also, bundled with these 2 plugs is a seemingly random 2 pin wid x 1 pin thick plug that has no label. It is held together with the PCI-E wires though and there is a ribbon holding them together that says "8PIN PCI (EXPRESS)" all around it.

The P3 plug is wired exactly in parallel to the wires behind the PCI-E plug giving you in effect two identical PCI-E plugs that you can plug into your two female plugs on the video card. You said:
it's wires are coming out of the PCI-E plug itself.. This cannot be the case. The way I wrote the sentence at the beginning of this para 'has to be correct description' -- but I need you to agree with my statement: "The P3 plug is wired . . . to the wires behind the PCI-E plug . . . "

About the extra 2 plugs . . . and "8pin PCI (EXPRESS)" statement. The more powerful video cards have two 8 pin female connectors in lieu of the 6 pin you have. The 2pin wide x 1 pin thick simply add to each of the two 6 pin plugs.
-------------------
Here is a link to the EVGA page for your video card. The part # on this evga page matches the part # on the Amazon page. Here is the link: http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=01G-P3-1461-KR&family=GeForce 500 Series Family&sw=

Go down the middle column until you see 'Requirements' then the statement in parenthesis: (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 24 Amps.) The Earthwatts Psu has two 12 volt rails rated at 22 amps each with electronic overload sensing set for 25 amps. There may or may not be a conflict between the Evga and the Antec ratings. I will call both companies tomorrow and find out. After thinking it thru, I do not think there is a conflict but you have to be certain. The electronic overload circuits in the psu are set for 25 amps and the Evga min psu rating 'does not clearly explain' the situation. But I can find out with a couple of calls, and then be certain of what I am saying.

I do not think what I said in the last para is affecting the present situation.
----------------------
If I unplug my monitor from the back of my computer case, I get a black screen, with a little 2 x 3 inch white window floating around with the words 'no signal' in the white window. So I assume you probably, likewise, have to have a signal from your computer to the monitor. I just cannot confirm this right now because of the late hour. So it may be the case that your OS must be installed.
----------
Antec will not open until about 11 am; California company. So by early afternoon, I should know more.

[ItsPureLuck]

Let me explain your following para first:


The P3 plug is wired exactly in parallel to the wires behind the PCI-E plug giving you in effect two identical PCI-E plugs that you can plug into your two female plugs on the video card. You said: . This cannot be the case. The way I wrote the sentence at the beginning of this para 'has to be correct description' -- but I need you to agree with my statement: "The P3 plug is wired . . . to the wires behind the PCI-E plug . . . "

About the extra 2 plugs . . . and "8pin PCI (EXPRESS)" statement. The more powerful video cards have two 8 pin female connectors in lieu of the 6 pin you have. The 2pin wide x 1 pin thick simply add to each of the two 6 pin plugs.
-------------------
Here is a link to the EVGA page for your video card. The part # on this evga page matches the part # on the Amazon page. Here is the link: http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=01G-P3-1461-KR&family=GeForce 500 Series Family&sw=

Go down the middle column until you see 'Requirements' then the statement in parenthesis: (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 24 Amps.) The Earthwatts Psu has two 12 volt rails rated at 22 amps each with electronic overload sensing set for 25 amps. There may or may not be a conflict between the Evga and the Antec ratings. I will call both companies tomorrow and find out. After thinking it thru, I do not think there is a conflict but you have to be certain. The electronic overload circuits in the psu are set for 25 amps and the Evga min psu rating 'does not clearly explain' the situation. But I can find out with a couple of calls, and then be certain of what I am saying.

I do not think what I said in the last para is affecting the present situation.
----------------------
If I unplug my monitor from the back of my computer case, I get a black screen, with a little 2 x 3 inch white window floating around with the words 'no signal' in the white window. So I assume you probably, likewise, have to have a signal from your computer to the monitor. I just cannot confirm this right now because of the late hour. So it may be the case that your OS must be installed.
----------
Antec will not open until about 11 am; California company. So by early afternoon, I should know more.

I won't be home from work until later in the afternoon to confirm what you have said unfortunately. However, I could SWEAR that the wires for P3 were indeed coming out of the PCI-E, but maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me. It looked like Wires from power supply went into the PCI-E plug, and then wires come out of PCI-E and went into the P3 plug.

Also, your statement about the monitor signal raised some red flags in my head. The no signal only flashes for a second when the power goes off - I grabbed this monitor as a spare we have in our basement and it might be one that we have had problems with before. I'm going to check immediately when I get home to see if a different monitor works (though I'm frankly not that hopeful that it's the problem, the beeps definitely mean something).

[zburns]

I am going to call EVGA first and get a clear understanding of their "System Requirements" wattage wise and minimum amps on a single 12 volt rail -- they already state this but in a ambiguous way. The Antec 500 watt 'overload' trip points are literally within one amp of EVGAs maximum level of 'operating' amperes. The Antec 500 w psu has two +12 volt rails, both equal (in amp capacity). The EVGA system requirements should have two elements - one for the max watts required for the GPU card and the other for the 'operating watts of the rest of the computer' when the GPU operates at max watts.

The Antec 500 watt psu may be 'narrowly' OK, then again, one of these factors above may rule the 500 watt out. It depends on what the EVGA card requires in maximum amperes.

In a worst case, if the 500 watt clearly is not compatible with the GPU card, Antec's 650 watt, Earthwatts model, will work and it is the same physical size housing as the 500 watt. There is some inconvience involved, but you would have a way out in that there is a fully compatible larger watt psu from Antec available as a literal 'drop in' into the Sonata III case --which I might add is a very 'attractive' case for home use. It is a mid tower size as compared to full tower size.

Regarding your post above, if the GPU card wanted more amps than the two rail 500 watt supply can deliver, then the Overload amp protection circuit would kick in and shut down a +12volt rail. That is unlikely because only 'minimum' run amperes should be involved -- certainly not max amps due to a high energy game maxing out the GPU power wise (wanting excess amps over what the psu can supply) and, thereby causing a overload circuit to trip out.

[ItsPureLuck]

The PCI-E and P3 plugs are actually as I suspected- power supply goes into PCI-E, more wires come out of PCI-E and go into P3. What is the reasoning for this? Ill try and upload a picture for you if you need it somehow.

[zburns]

PS. Send me a pic if it is easy, otherwise we can figure it out with 'questions' back and forth.

What you are saying is that the PCI-E plug is just a junction used to splice in more wires that go to P3; you are also saying that regards the PCI-E plug, the six male plastic sockets with pins inside are prevented from being used as a plug to go into one of the 6 pin female sockets on the card. You have only one 6 pin male plug to go into only one female mating socket on the video card. Am I right?

I talked to EVGA today. Called Antec, listened to some voice mails, got some information. EVGA says you need a 450 watt power supply with a minimum +12 volts and 25 amps, system wide. Your psu has 2 12 volt rails each rated 25 amps, so you should be okay. You will have some limitations, maybe, because your video card is fairly powerful. I can write out the 'limits' I refer too, but that should be the last item; right now, lets concentrate on your getting up to speed.

Try the monitor you have on the computer you are writing back and forth to the forum on. My guess is that it will also be black. If that happens, it simply will prove that you need a 'data signal that represents data intended to be displayed'. If everything is ok, component wise, such a signal will trigger the monitor circuits that 'will paint the screen with the data'. This being the case, you will have to load the OS, but before you load the OS, you should run the Data Lifeguard Utility.

You need to be using Rob's Assembly page and following his order of doing things. If you do this, you have written instructions to follow, and if you have problems, I can query you based on 'what you did or did not do, results, etc. , all based on
Rob's written instructions. The Data Lifeguard Utility is a first check on your assembly and the electronics to see that the system is working properly, the monitor lighting up or not will take care of itself (if nothing is wrong) as you follow Rob's on line instructions: here they are: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_parts_list.shtml

You should be down to the Instruction "Ready the Monitor". My last para should take precedence over the stuff above it. I assume most of the builders use this guide; it is very good.

Look under 'Test the Hard Drive' for the Data Lifeguard Utility.

[zburns]

Here is the starting point in Rob's instructions where the monitor shows a screen with data on it for the first time in the assembly process: here's the link: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_first_boot.shtml

I suggest you start at this point (make sure everything in line earlier has been done, etc.) or earlier. (you do not install the Hard Drive until later -- if you already have it in, just unplug it) But at a minimum start at First Boot and then follow Rob's instructions from there. It is important that you run the several Lifeguard Utility tests on the Hard Drive. It will take at least three hours, but if you have a successful 'Data Lifeguard Test', that will assure you of a clean HD prior to loading the Operating System.

I hope I am not being confusing in what I recommend. You should start at First Boot, minimum, and go from there; but make sure all the steps previous to first boot have been done. I assume that if you follow this process your perceived monitor problem will take care of itself -- this assumes correct assembly up to the first boot point and no damaged electronics due to a static charge incident.

Using this process, ie. following Rob's assembly inst, gives me or others a guideline as to what questions to ask at a particular point in the assembly process.

[ItsPureLuck]

Here are pictures on photobucket- not the best quality but I think you can see what I'm talking about with the PCI-E plug.
http://s1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg635/ItsPureLuck017/?action=view&current=downsized_0224122113.jpg
http://s1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg635/ItsPureLuck017/?action=view&current=downsized_0224122113.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZh ttp%3A%2F%2Fs1247.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg635 %2FItsPureLuck017%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3Dd ownsized_0224122112.jpg

[ItsPureLuck]

PS. Send me a pic if it is easy, otherwise we can figure it out with 'questions' back and forth.

What you are saying is that the PCI-E plug is just a junction used to splice in more wires that go to P3; you are also saying that regards the PCI-E plug, the six male plastic sockets with pins inside are prevented from being used as a plug to go into one of the 6 pin female sockets on the card. You have only one 6 pin male plug to go into only one female mating socket on the video card. Am I right?

I talked to EVGA today. Called Antec, listened to some voice mails, got some information. EVGA says you need a 450 watt power supply with a minimum +12 volts and 25 amps, system wide. Your psu has 2 12 volt rails each rated 25 amps, so you should be okay. You will have some limitations, maybe, because your video card is fairly powerful. I can write out the 'limits' I refer too, but that should be the last item; right now, lets concentrate on your getting up to speed.

Try the monitor you have on the computer you are writing back and forth to the forum on. My guess is that it will also be black. If that happens, it simply will prove that you need a 'data signal that represents data intended to be displayed'. If everything is ok, component wise, such a signal will trigger the monitor circuits that 'will paint the screen with the data'. This being the case, you will have to load the OS, but before you load the OS, you should run the Data Lifeguard Utility.

You need to be using Rob's Assembly page and following his order of doing things. If you do this, you have written instructions to follow, and if you have problems, I can query you based on 'what you did or did not do, results, etc. , all based on
Rob's written instructions. The Data Lifeguard Utility is a first check on your assembly and the electronics to see that the system is working properly, the monitor lighting up or not will take care of itself (if nothing is wrong) as you follow Rob's on line instructions: here they are: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_parts_list.shtml

You should be down to the Instruction "Ready the Monitor". My last para should take precedence over the stuff above it. I assume most of the builders use this guide; it is very good.

Look under 'Test the Hard Drive' for the Data Lifeguard Utility.

I did try the other monitor, and it didn't work so it confirms my problem. As for assembly, I actually have been following Rob's the entire time - the first boot was as far as I got with his before discovering this problem with the video card and the 5 beeps after booting. It was only then that I tried to install the HD and see if that would solve my problem. I think tomorrow I'll just undo everything and try again then, little burned out from it for the time being.

[zburns]

Your picture of the PCI-E plugs is fine. The added plug is wired thru the back of the original plug. Those are commonly called Molex plugs. The pins in the terminals for one wire have a certain 'diameter' for crimping one wire. When two wires are to be crimped together, the area of the chrimp is larger -- what I see is very common. It is common practice by any manufacturer using Molex type plastic plugs with insertable metal pins, male or female.
-----
Ok, sorry, I did not know that you were on first boot which is a source of video, I assume coming from BIOS chip. Before you start taking things apart, lets look at the possibilities regards the BIOS - it is the only possible source of an image since the HD is not installed nor an OS on the HD. In reading yesterday, several comments (I think on MCI) on cleaning the battery terminals; let me find that statement before you do anything with the battery.

I understand the five beeps are spaced evenly apart and sound the same; but what about the first two beeps you said you heard in an earlier post -- are they still a factor -- still there? Has there been two beeps consistently and then five beeps?

[ItsPureLuck]

Your picture of the PCI-E plugs is fine. The added plug is wired thru the back of the original plug. Those are commonly called Molex plugs. The pins in the terminals for one wire have a certain 'diameter' for crimping one wire. When two wires are to be crimped together, the area of the chrimp is larger -- what I see is very common. It is common practice by any manufacturer using Molex type plastic plugs with insertable metal pins, male or female.
-----
Ok, sorry, I did not know that you were on first boot which is a source of video, I assume coming from BIOS chip. Before you start taking things apart, lets look at the possibilities regards the BIOS - it is the only possible source of an image since the HD is not installed nor an OS on the HD. In reading yesterday, several comments (I think on MCI) on cleaning the battery terminals; let me find that statement before you do anything with the battery.

I understand the five beeps are spaced evenly apart and sound the same; but what about the first two beeps you said you heard in an earlier post -- are they still a factor -- still there? Has there been two beeps consistently and then five beeps?

Yes, there are actually 3 beeps total just shortly after it is booted up: 2 of the same pitch and one slightly different. About 3-5 seconds after that after the fans all start going and the motherboard lights come on, the 5 beeps go off.

[zburns]

First comment. If I did not say so earlier, I was able to pull up the manual on your mobo, online. I will pull it back up and read thru the BIOS section looking for any comments on the beep codes and I will search the internet. Since you are on Rob's 'First Boot Instruction' from a sequence viewpoint, please stay at that point with the HD not connected (unplug it).

Here is a quote from one of the BIOS articles online:
If the BIOS finds any errors during the POST, it will notify you by a series of beeps or a text message displayed on the screen. An error at this point is almost always a hardware problem. Here is the link to the page the quote came from: http://computer.howstuffworks.com/bios2.htm

Since you are getting not only the start up 3 beeps and then 5 beeps, later, I would take this as a sign that the BIOS is working. You have to assume 'it is working correctly right now' -- so you do not want to do anything to change the present condition of he BIOS -- as it presently stands or works. For example you do not want to pull the battery out.

Right now, I suggest we look for the 'meaning' of 3 beeps, then later 5 beeps.

[zburns]

Who did you purchase the motherboard from? When you received the box with the mobo inside, could you tell if it had been opened or not? If you purchase from Newegg, you - some of the time - have a choice between 'open box' or the opposite 'closed box'. Closed box means to me, that the box Newegg ships to you is in the condition, meaning 'never opened' since it left the manufacturers shipment point. 'Open box' products are availabe at a small discount at Newegg, and, I interpret that phrase 'Open Box' to mean that the box has been opened since it originally left the manufacturer, but opened before you ever received it. Meaning it could have been shipped originally to some other user, he found it would not work and returned it to Newegg. Newegg checked it out, repaired it if necessary and put it back in stock -- but under the classification 'open box product' and, they offer a discount to those who buy such product.

Assuming you purchased such a product, your motherboard, as 'open box', you should have been made aware of it in a clear 'up front' way. You knew it was 'open box' when ordered, your shipping papers should show 'open box', etc.

I only raise the above as an issue, because this problem under 'open box' policy, the problem could have already occured, and the fact that you received it is an error on the part of the 'electronic parts house' you purchased from.

But AGAIN, if you purchased OPEN BOX, you should be well aware of it being an 'open box' product.

The above just covers one possibility, that is all its about!!

[zburns]

This is the beep code sequence I am working with, please confirm that it is correct in every detail.

From your post: 'the computer gives off 3 quick beeps (the first 2 are the same pitch, the third is different). About 3 seconds after that, I get 5 quick beeps of the same pitch'

[ItsPureLuck]

This is the beep code sequence I am working with, please confirm that it is correct in every detail.

From your post: 'the computer gives off 3 quick beeps (the first 2 are the same pitch, the third is different). About 3 seconds after that, I get 5 quick beeps of the same pitch'

That is correct for the beep sequence.

I ordered mine from amazon, it was not open box though.

[zburns]

Is there anything (a stick on label, etc), separate page or pamlett that clearly states all pertinent detail about the 'supplier of your BIOS software'. Your motherboard comes with a BIOS chip and a battery already installed, and, an 'installed BIOS software' -- I am looking for the manufacturer of the BIOS software, as well as 'a catalogue number for the particular version of that BIOS by that manufacturer (whoever it is).

The on line manual I have been using has AMI (American Megatrends) in the front of the manual, in the index. They are one of a number of BIOS software suppliers. But that is all I see in the manual, is just the AMI name in the beginning of the manual.

I would hope your motherboard shipping box would have a sticker on it that says 'this mobo equiped with xxxxBIOS by zzzzcompany. Or do you have a separate small manual or pamplett that deals with BIOS only -- this is a reach for me -- never heard of separate BIOS manual. I would think you would have something that states who BIOS supplier is and a model or version #.

[ItsPureLuck]

Is there anything (a stick on label, etc), separate page or pamlett that clearly states all pertinent detail about the 'supplier of your BIOS software'. Your motherboard comes with a BIOS chip and a battery already installed, and, an 'installed BIOS software' -- I am looking for the manufacturer of the BIOS software, as well as 'a catalogue number for the particular version of that BIOS by that manufacturer (whoever it is).

The on line manual I have been using has AMI (American Megatrends) in the front of the manual, in the index. They are one of a number of BIOS software suppliers. But that is all I see in the manual, is just the AMI name in the beginning of the manual.

I would hope your motherboard shipping box would have a sticker on it that says 'this mobo equiped with xxxxBIOS by zzzzcompany. Or do you have a separate small manual or pamplett that deals with BIOS only -- this is a reach for me -- never heard of separate BIOS manual. I would think you would have something that states who BIOS supplier is and a model or version #.

I've found nothing so far except that it uses ClickBiosx2 unfortunately. I will keep looking but I don't see anything about the supplier yet.

[zburns]

Here is a comment to take a look at: http://www.squidoo.com/motherboard-beep-codes Look at the last post: Robert77 Jan 4, 2011 @ 1:17 pm | delete , I assume Deep means Beep.

[ItsPureLuck]

So looking at that, do you think it's mainly a BIOS problem then?

[zburns]

Your BIOS is furnished by a company called AMI. The reason I say this is from going to the MSI main page for the motherboard, look under downloads, choose BIOS. The MSI motherboard I refer to, is MSI # MSI P67A-GD65(B3) LGA 1155. There appear to be 16 sequential versions of the BIOS from 2010 up to one new one in 2012. All the versions identify AMI as the BIOS version for your cat # MSI motherboard, the motherboard just mentioned. For each version, 'Type' of bios is AMI BIOS. Evidently 'Click Bios' is a marketing name that MSI uses. In the online manual for the motherboard, in the index, AMI is listed as well as Phoenix (another BIOS supplier). I could not find the AMI name anywhere else in the 'online MSI manual for your motherboard'.

I did multiple searches for beep codes, etc.. But when I do AMI beep codes, I get this URL or link: http://www.bioscentral.com/beepcodes/amibeep.htm . BIOS CENTRAL appears be a company that deals in 'everything Bios'. So click on this link I just mentioned, and a table of beep codes will come up that are from AMI, presumably the writer of your Bios. On the right hand side of the Bios Central webpage, AMI is listed under Beep Codes.

There will be a column of beep codes. In the left column, 5 short beeps is listed above the second set of beeps; the second set of beeps is further down the left hand column and it is 1 long, 2 short (a combination) beeps. There is a center column for 'Error Message' and a third column for 'Description'.

There is no mention, that I read, that stated that multiple beep codes would come sequentially from the BIOS / mobo speaker. What I describe in the previous sentence is two beep codes (1) 1 long, 2 short and (2) 5 short. The 5 short beep code occuring before the 1 long, 2 short (on the BIOS CENTRAL webpage). Assuming multiple codes in sequence that 'emit' from the BIOS / mobo speaker circuit 'is the way this happens', then you do have the information as to what is likely the problem.

I suggest you call MSI Tech support on Monday, give them your beep codes and motherboard part #. They should have a table of the beep codes for your motherboard readily available, and they should confirm to you that you do have two separate beep codes that describe two problems. They have the data and they should be able to 'positively' answer the question as to what is wrong.

[zburns]

I see some 'daylight' or 'wiggle room' in my post above. The 5 continuous beeps (assuming they are all the same pitch and the spacing between them is the same) according to BIOS CENTRAL mean the following:
Processor error / The system CPU has failed . This does not mean, necessarily, that the cpu is 'defective'; what it does mean is that the cpu is not operating properly or not operating at all. Two possibilies are (1) the information being fed to the cpu by the RAM memory is non-existent or 'all messed up' or (2) there is something wrong with the cpu.
---------EDIT for RAM sticks is below.
Hopefully, you can interpret the first three beep codes to be three short which indicates RAM trouble which causes cpu not to work. Three short beep codes tell you it is RAM; I would assume it is RAM and try each stick separately.

It seems clear that the delay, then the five beeps occur, mean that the cpu is not functioning properly. Hopefully, the RAM is not performing and preventing the cpu from performing. There are two sticks of RAM. One stick must be removed. The other stick put in the primary RAM slot 'for one stick only operation' (I will come back and edit this sentence after looking at the motherboard manual, and instructions for which RAM slot to use). RAM EDIT: Using a wrist strap, remove both RAM sticks -- put the RAM stick that was farthest away -DIMM2 slot - into the first slot - DIMM1. Leave the other three slots blank. Now try first boot again. Hopefully, one long beep only. If you get the same three then five beeps as you got earlier, take out the RAM stick in DIMM1 and put the other RAM stick in the DIMM1 slot and see if that helps.

You want to try both RAM sticks in the DIMM1 slot and leave all other RAM slots vacant. For this test, the RAM slot nearest the cpu is the only one used -- three slots behind DIMM1 are empty. Try both sticks, only one at a time. One beep only when you start up means success. The beep sequence from earlier, three and then five, mean there is still a problem.

Unless you are clear on what to do, post back to me for clarification.
-------------This is the end of the EDIT

With one stick RAM only in operation, hopefully, the multiple beep codes are replaced by ONE long beep code that means 'POST has passed all tests'. If this does not work, then repeat this process with the other stick of RAM. Again only one stick in the correct RAM slot. Hopefully, it works and you get only ONE long beep code.

If in the final analysis, the same beep codes keep sounding off, three short or one long and three short, then five beeps three seconds later. MSI tech support should be contacted for beep code confirmation. Have their tech support make the statement that the beep codes you are hearing are to be interpreted as BIOS CENTRAL indicates.

Note: Look at BIOS CENTRAL for MCI beep codes. There are not a lot of choices, 16 total.
-----
I strongly suggest you do not do anything until you get a wrist strap for static control. If you are in a community with Electronic Supply house (s), they will surely have one!! Vitally important. Use of a wrist strap with a one megohm resistor reduces the static current discharge by one / millionth of what it would be without a wrist strap.

EDIT for RAM SLOT, ASAP --DONE!!.

[ItsPureLuck]

Hi zburns-thank you so much for the help. I have been really tied up the last 2 days and unfortunately haven't been able to work on my PC or respond here as much as I would like. I have to go out yet again shortly, but will review what you said here now. Luckily I'm in the process of looking for a new job and as an intern I was allowed to cut my hours from 40 to 20 so I have much more time during the week to fix this.

[zburns]

REPEAT of the above -- this really matters!!

I strongly suggest you do not do anything until you get a wrist strap for static control. If you are in a community with Electronic Supply house (s), they will surely have one!! Vitally important. Use of a wrist strap with a one megohm resistor reduces the static current discharge by one / millionth of what it would be without a wrist strap.

[zburns]

I finished the edit on replacing the RAM one stick at a time. See page 5. Summary: Best to pull both sticks out, separate them so you know which stick was in what slot. Slot closest to cpu is DIMM1. Put the RAM stick from DIMM2 into DIMM1, leave DIMM2 vacant.
You want the beep codes to disappear and just get one beep. If putting the stick that was in slot 2 into slot 1 fails, then put the stick originally from slot 1 back into slot 1, leaving slot 2 vacant. Try first boot again, you want to hear only one beep!
Again, you only use the slot nearest the CPU socket -- this is DIMM1. Post the result regardless.

Any questions about anything, please ask before 'acting'.

A Wrist Strap for static will make you happy!

[ItsPureLuck]

I finished the edit on replacing the RAM one stick at a time. See page 5. Summary: Best to pull both sticks out, separate them so you know which stick was in what slot. Slot closest to cpu is DIMM1. Put the RAM stick from DIMM2 into DIMM1, leave DIMM2 vacant.
You want the beep codes to disappear and just get one beep. If putting the stick that was in slot 2 into slot 1 fails, then put the stick originally from slot 1 back into slot 1, leaving slot 2 vacant. Try first boot again, you want to hear only one beep!
Again, you only use the slot nearest the CPU socket -- this is DIMM1. Post the result regardless.

Any questions about anything, please ask before 'acting'.

A Wrist Strap for static will make you happy!

No dice with trying 1 stick at a time in DIMM1 (I actually ended up trying up each slot with each stick individually as a shot in the dark prayer). I guess I'll have to call MSI tomorrow to see if I can find out what is going on with the beeps.

One thing to note, I decided to try to start up the computer without the memory sticks in. I'm not aware of the exact effects this has in this stages, but it was different: there no longer were any beeps. Rather the lights on the mobo come on for a second, and the fans start up for a second, then stop, and will try and start again.

[zburns]

I'm not aware of the exact effects this has in this stages, but it was different: there no longer were any beeps. The beep code only happens with RAM plugged in. Indicates the cpu does something with RAM plugged in but nothing with RAM out of play. This implies that 'defective' RAM could be the cause of the problem. Both sticks do it, correct?. For troubleshooting purposes, it is a lot cheaper to buy one stick of RAM in order to 'rule RAM in as the problem' or to 'rule it out as the problem'.

When you purchased the RAM from Crucial, did you use the Crucial calculator to pick compatible RAM based on motherboard choice Exactly, what are the Crucial Cat #s or part #s for the RAM?

Did you go to the MSI 'QVL', (Qualified Vendor's List), listing for your motherboard in order to pick compatible RAM?
------

Here is a good but short article: http://www.ehow.com/info_8419247_signs-ram-esd-damage.html

[ItsPureLuck]

The beep code only happens with RAM plugged in. Indicates the cpu does something with RAM plugged in but nothing with RAM out of play. This implies that 'defective' RAM could be the cause of the problem. Both sticks do it, correct?. For troubleshooting purposes, it is a lot cheaper to buy one stick of RAM in order to 'rule RAM in as the problem' or to 'rule it out as the problem'.

When you purchased the RAM from Crucial, did you use the Crucial calculator to pick compatible RAM based on motherboard choice Exactly, what are the Crucial Cat #s or part #s for the RAM?

Did you go to the MSI 'QVL', (Qualified Vendor's List), listing for your motherboard in order to pick compatible RAM?
------

Here is a good but short article: http://www.ehow.com/info_8419247_signs-ram-esd-damage.html




Here is the link to the calculator, looks like it should be compatible. http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=14445B82A5CA7304

I didn't use the calculator ahead of time (probably should have), I simply trusted what Rob had on the main page of "What I would get today" when choosing parts, and that seems to be correct.

[zburns]

So it seems that you did in fact use correct RAM, meaning one on the QVL list. There is however, one thing I will go back and check. Not very long ago, we had another forum member, actually two forum members who had identical problems with Crucial RAM. In both cases, they used Kingston RAM to replace Crucial RAM and things worked fine for both members. But the second member relied on the first forum member to identify the problem. The second member recognized and pointed out that the 'latency' of the crucial Ram he was using was 'lower' than the Kingston latency we chose. I was helping him with the problem. I picked out his Kingston memory using the Kingston calculator (I think?); my point is that I too recognized the latency difference when picking out the Kinston memory. Both the forum member and I independently saw the difference. In both cases the Kingston memory worked fine and the crucial memory, in both cases appeared not to work.

My point of the above is that the above situation should be looked at for 'similarities to your problem'. Although the 5 beep codes may be indicating a cpu problem, your trying your system out with one stick RAM installed and 'then no RAM' installed 'forces' you to consider a RAM problem as the potential cause. I continue to point out that the cpu in the case of 'RAM present' shows a problem, while in the case of 'RAM absent', the problem does not show itself. You have to rule RAM 'IN' or 'OUT' as the problem.

I will check out the latency issue and post back early afternoon.

EDIT:11:35am Crucial latency is DDR3 PC3-12800 • 8-8-8-24 • Unbuffered • NON-ECC • DDR3-1600 • 1.5V ; Kingston DDR3-1600 at a low latency timing of 9-9-9 at 1.65V.

Note: I am simply throwing these numbers out right now. They seem similar to what I saw in the previous situation several weeks ago. Kingston replace the Crucial, everything ok after that. Relatively the same type 'latency differences between the two' several weeks ago, and, what you presently have!! The 1.65 volts on the Kingston may be a problem; it might exceed Intel's limit on the cpu voltage (I am almost certain, I did not see 1.65 volts on the Kingston RAM in the case several weeks ago). But the point of this entire last hour of 'looking' is to point out a similar problem with latency a forum member had several weeks ago (he did not have the beep codes). I will dig into it more this pm and get back.

[zburns]

I assume the following is the correct Crucial part # for a kit of the two RAM sticks that you have: Part Number: BLT2KIT4G3D1608DT1TX0

Please confirm. Note: The part number that I reference has the word 'kit' as part of the part #. So I assume the word 'kit' will be included in the part # of each stick of RAM -- highly unusual if that is the case.

Anyhow, what I want is any long number on each of the RAM sticks. If there is more than one number on each RAM stick, provide it also!

[ItsPureLuck]

Well, this is interesting: it does indeed say BLT2KIT4G3D1608DT1TX0 on my shipping receipt order. However, on the sticks themselves, it says : BLT4G3D1337DT1X0.16FM

If that is a discrepancy in what I ordered to what I received, I'm going to be really annoyed at both crucial and myself. I was too excited to get started building, and the receipt slip says and differences must be reported to crucial within 10 business days.

[zburns]

Try running the actual part # thru the crucial calculator for your mobo. I will do the same as a double check.

reported to crucial within 10 business days. You will not have a problem with this.
---------------
Here is the page the RAM is listed on, not quite half way down: http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=P67A-GD65&Cat=RAM It is for the part # you list above. And the latency is 8-8-8 24. This is very similar to the Crucial RAM on the Kingston stuff several weeks ago I was talking about. If you go to the crucial page via the link in this post, you will see at the RAM part # "Compatible".
-------------
More on the Kingston stuff in several hours.

[ItsPureLuck]

Try running the actual part # thru the crucial calculator for your mobo. I will do the same as a double check.
You will not have a problem with this.
---------------
Here is the page the RAM is listed on, not quite half way down: http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=P67A-GD65&Cat=RAM It is for the part # you list above. And the latency is 8-8-8 24. This is very similar to the Crucial RAM on the Kingston stuff several weeks ago I was talking about. If you go to the crucial page via the link in this post, you will see at the RAM part # "Compatible".
-------------
More on the Kingston stuff in several hours.

Here is the one they actually sent me: I'm annoyed because the price is $33 for 4gb, yet I paid $70 for the one I wanted. http://www.crucial.com/store/partspecs.aspx?IMODULE=BLT4G3D1337DT1TX0

It says compatible with my mobo, but I'm suspicious after what's happened so far.

[zburns]

BLT4G3D1337DT1TX0, I will check it out. Be back between 7 & 8/

[zburns]

The RAM they sent you originally is not what you specified on page 3, I take it? What they sent is DDR3 1333, you wanted DDR3 1600, I think. What you received is one speed slower, but it should not be a factor in the present problem.

Will you be available tomorrow morning ?

I want to give you a recommendation on getting some new RAM, but first I would like you to read a situation several weeks back where Crucial RAM was replaced by Kingston because of the latency.
Here is a link to the My Super PC page that the discussion is on: http://forums.mysuperpc.com/showthread.php?4505-First-Boot-Problem-(What-else-)/page2 To save you time read the 'fourth post up from the page bottom', and the remainder of the posts on this page. It refers to the Kingston memory being ordered to replace Crucial because of a difference in latency. This happened to two forum members new builds.

You might want to go on to page 3 and read that whole page. Subject matter the same as the last four posts on page 2.

[ItsPureLuck]

I'll be at work, but I'll be able to check these boards every now and then. Thank you for the help, I'll check out that thread!

[zburns]

Let's call this a recap of where your build stands. I meant to ask yesterday if you had called MSI tech support about some comments on the beep codes; I guess a confirmation of what the BIOS CENTRAL website clearly stated in their table, meaning the five beeps indicated the cpu was not functioning. This does not mean that the cpu is damaged, although that is a possibility. You tried both sticks of RAM in the DIMM1 slot, per my suggestions, and the five beeps remained. You then tried no RAM, and the five beeps did not occur. I indicated, in effect, that the cpu 'knew' when RAM was present and when it was not present.

So you do not know for certain if the cpu is capable of working correctly; if both sticks of RAM are defective, then the cpu will not function and the five beeps would occur (I assume a correct assumption). Right now, I think the only choice is to assume that either the RAM or the cpu is defective. I think you should get at least one new stick of RAM (might be best to get two sticks in a matched pair) first; this allows you to eliminate RAM as the problem source (OR you can test the RAM in another computer, but that is difficult to do because the existing RAM would have to be compatible with the 'test' computer and you cannot control that).

So I would recommend you purchase matched sticks of Kingston RAM as the surest way to know you have good RAM in the computer. My problem with Crucial is that two new builders recently have had to replace their Crucial RAM with Kingston to get the 'builds' to work. The builders felt it was best to change suppliers.

You have to know with certainty that the RAM is good. Then you put one new RAM stick in the DIMM1 slot, turn it on, and see if the five beeps are there; if the beeps are still there, that tells you, probably, the cpu. If there are no beeps, (EDIT 7:45am) then the original RAM is bad.
-------
The other situation involves the video card. Your initial three beeps both indicated video problems, which could have been caused by the cpu not working, meaning the video card was not receiving data from the cpu.

But this question was never 'talked' about much or answered with certainty. The first three beeps were either all three the same and equally spaced. Or they consisted of one long then two short beeps. These were the only choices according to BIOS CENTRAL. You could try to fine tune your impression of the first three beeps. No question about the five beeps several seconds later.

The two sticks are $ 69.99 at Newegg but they are out of stock, as of tonight. But they had a 100 % two week rating, and nothing beyond that; makes me think it is a new RAM product. But I went to Newegg for a price!

Note EDIT three paras up.

[ItsPureLuck]

Let's call this a recap of where your build stands. I meant to ask yesterday if you had called MSI tech support about some comments on the beep codes; I guess a confirmation of what the BIOS CENTRAL website clearly stated in their table, meaning the five beeps indicated the cpu was not functioning. This does not mean that the cpu is damaged, although that is a possibility. You tried both sticks of RAM in the DIMM1 slot, per my suggestions, and the five beeps remained. You then tried no RAM, and the five beeps did not occur. I indicated, in effect, that the cpu 'knew' when RAM was present and when it was not present.

So you do not know for certain if the cpu is capable of working correctly; if both sticks of RAM are defective, then the cpu will not function and the five beeps would occur (I assume a correct assumption). Right now, I think the only choice is to assume that either the RAM or the cpu is defective. I think you should get at least one new stick of RAM (might be best to get two sticks in a matched pair) first; this allows you to eliminate RAM as the problem source (OR you can test the RAM in another computer, but that is difficult to do because the existing RAM would have to be compatible with the 'test' computer and you cannot control that).

So I would recommend you purchase matched sticks of Kingston RAM as the surest way to know you have good RAM in the computer. My problem with Crucial is that two new builders recently have had to replace their Crucial RAM with Kingston to get the 'builds' to work. The builders felt it was best to change suppliers.

You have to know with certainty that the RAM is good. Then you put one new RAM stick in the DIMM1 slot, turn it on, and see if the five beeps are there; if the beeps are still there, that tells you, probably, the cpu. If there are no beeps, (EDIT 7:45am) then the original RAM is bad.
-------
The other situation involves the video card. Your initial three beeps both indicated video problems, which could have been caused by the cpu not working, meaning the video card was not receiving data from the cpu.

But this question was never 'talked' about much or answered with certainty. The first three beeps were either all three the same and equally spaced. Or they consisted of one long then two short beeps. These were the only choices according to BIOS CENTRAL. You could try to fine tune your impression of the first three beeps. No question about the five beeps several seconds later.

The two sticks are $ 69.99 at Newegg but they are out of stock, as of tonight. But they had a 100 % two week rating, and nothing beyond that; makes me think it is a new RAM product. But I went to Newegg for a price!

Note EDIT three paras up.

I ended up not calling MSI just because I figured we had narrowed down what the problem is. As for the first 3 beeps, they are indeed evenly spaced, the last one is simply at a slightly different pitch. I'll check both amazon and newegg for the Kingston memory sticks. I'm praying this isn't a CPU issue.

[zburns]

Regardless of what MSI tech support would say, I do not see how you avoid trying one new memory stick (but if you buy one, you have to buy two), but you only test with one.

My other point is that you have to use a static wrist band, PERIOD. Given that we are talking about the possibility (at the moment based on 'beep codes') of defective RAM or cpu, if either one is in fact bad, you cannot rule out static as one of the possible causes.

I will do a post later today which I think will convince you that 'static control' is 'mandatory for every step of the assembly process'.

[ItsPureLuck]

I couldn't find the $69.99 RAM you recommended on Newegg at all, which is bizarre: is it possibly the model that is $61.99?

Unfortunately because time is of the essence and this has taken me long enough (I know...patience should be a virtue) I'm going to order this RAM that seemed to work for that other board member who you helped: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104290. His specs are exactly the same as mine, and it seems this memory worked for him.

[zburns]

Not a problem!

[ItsPureLuck]

Damn, the new memory resulted in the same beep sequence. I fear this means there is an issue with the processor.

[zburns]

I am very sorry to hear that! I would tend to agree that it sounds like the cpu is damaged.

However, it would be best to call MSI tech support (I think it is a separate number), describe the symptoms meaning the first three beeps, then the five beeps some three seconds later, see what they say. MSI uses beeps to tell you the number of USB devices that are connected to the case (it is a feature only used by MSI) -- my point here is that if they use beep codes to tell you the number of USB devices, they have to have documentation that lets them separate the USB beeps from the other intended uses of 'beeps' such as what BIOS CENTRAL states for their AMI beep codes.

[zburns]

Just because you have the 5 beeps, and they line up with the BIOS CENTRAL result, is not an 'automatic' sign that your cpu is the problem. There may be other causes or that may be the actual cause based on how the BIOS is designed. You do not know if the cpu is ok or not, until someone very familar with your motherboard, ie. MSI tech support gives you a clear statement to the effect that 'in all likelyhood, the five beeps are definitely a consequence of a non-performing cpu'. The motherboard circuits could be at fault, etc. -- Someone knows the cpu and the motherboard 'very well' and can make a definitive statement.

The other way to prove cpu or not, is to try another cpu in the socket. If in the end, the cpu proves to be the problem, you have no way of knowing if the original cpu was working when you received it. So if your present cpu is not working, it should be returned to the source you purchased it from, for a no charge replacement.

[ItsPureLuck]

I am very sorry to hear that! I would tend to agree that it sounds like the cpu is damaged.

However, it would be best to call MSI tech support (I think it is a separate number), describe the symptoms meaning the first three beeps, then the five beeps some three seconds later, see what they say. MSI uses beeps to tell you the number of USB devices that are connected to the case (it is a feature only used by MSI) -- my point here is that if they use beep codes to tell you the number of USB devices, they have to have documentation that lets them separate the USB beeps from the other intended uses of 'beeps' such as what BIOS CENTRAL states for their AMI beep codes.

Ok thanks, I'll give them a buzz.

[ItsPureLuck]

OK, first let me say sorry I never gave you a final update. After tons of frustration I decided just to let it go for a week, then I went on vacation for another 2 weeks. I gave in and took what I had setup to Best Buy for them to take a look at it- they confirmed that either the motherboard OR processor were damaged, but couldn't pinpoint which one. I sent the parts back to amazon and was able to get a full refund, the guy from Best Buy also recommended Newegg for PC parts instead so I think that's what I'll do to get replacement parts.

However, there is one issue: the MOBO I had ordered isn't available on Newegg anymore, so now I'm looking at getting a different motherboard, I'd also possibly consider a slightly better processor. Do you have any recommendations? Here is the list of my other parts. I know it's sort of unconvential to choose the motherboard last seeing as its usually the first thing you get, but that's what I'm stuck doing.

Case - Antec Sonata III with 500-Watt power supply (It is Earthwatts 500 watt supply)

Processor - Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz *Would like to use, but willing to upgrade*

Motherboard - MSI P67A-GD65(B3) LGA 1155 *NEED NEW*

RAM - Kingston HyperX Blu 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104290)

Video Card - EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1GB DDR5

Sound Card - Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium PCI Express Sound Card

Hard Drive - Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 7200rpm SATA 3

CD/RW - Sony 24x SATA DVD RW/CDRW

Going to do some research on my own for the time being, but don't want to make a mistake so I thought I'd ask.

[zburns]

I am really sorry to hear of the difficulty you have been having. I looked back into the pages on your thread and I see where I was pushing you to use 'good' static control', etc.. Did you ever get a 'static control wrist strap' and more important, did you use it everytime you 'did anything, no matter how small or inconsequential it may have seemed' (using a wrist strap) ? There needs to be some explanation for failure of 'components' -- in order to prevent future failure for the same reason the present problems came about.

Component comments later today.


did you use it everytime you 'did anything, no matter how small or inconsequential it may have seemed (using a wrist strap)' ? I am very serious about the importance of this statement 'in order to protect your components' .

[ItsPureLuck]

I am really sorry to hear of the difficulty you have been having. I looked back into the pages on your thread and I see where I was pushing you to use 'good' static control', etc.. Did you ever get a 'static control wrist strap' and more important, did you use it everytime you 'did anything, no matter how small or inconsequential it may have seemed' (using a wrist strap) ? There needs to be some explanation for failure of 'components' -- in order to prevent future failure for the same reason the present problems came about.

Component comments later today.

I am very serious about the importance of this statement 'in order to protect your components' .

I did end up getting a wrist strap during the first build attempt, but by then it may have been too late. Or one of the parts may actually have been defective, I guess we will never know lol (it was more than likely me, though I never felt a static charge when touching the parts). I'm just happy amazon ended up giving me a full refund so no harm done.

[RickyTick]

This should be a comparable replacement.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130582

[zburns]

Here is your choice on the cpu:
Processor - Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz *Would like to use, but willing to upgrade*

You probably should stay with i5 2500k; I say this for one reason and that is that for your video card, EVGA recommends a minimum psu of 450 watts. So my question right now, has to do with any plans you have to 'overclock'. Because of your present problem I would like to confirm that the Earthwatts power supply is large enough to handle an overclock. I cannot say more right now, because I want to find some benchmark tests from reviews that state 'overclocked speed - cpu frequency - versus wattage on the i5 2500k.

So please advise that you plan to overclock or not!

[ItsPureLuck]

No plans on overclocking, I've never really been a fan of it!

[ItsPureLuck]

This should be a comparable replacement.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130582

Thanks for the input RickyTick, I'll take a look at that one.

[zburns]

Your i5 2500 k has 4 cores and 'no' virtual cores; therefore, only 4 threads running simultaneously. The i7 2600k, i7 2700k and i7 3820 each have 4 cores and 4 virtual cores, for a total of 8 threads running simultaneously.

How much benefit this really offers you would require some study. For example to take advantage of 4 cores and 4 virtual cores, there must be software, games, applications, etc. written to support '8' threads simultaneously. Without really studying 'the potential for using 4 cores and 4 virtual cores', I really cannot say there is a real benefit or not.

[RickyTick]

There's no benefit in "gaming", but there are benefits to video editing and probably photoshop. iirc

[ItsPureLuck]

Got it up and running last week! New motherboard works perfectly, thanks for all the help guys!