First Boot Problem (What else?)

[JaneDoe308]

Hi!

I‘m attempting to build my first PC. I have done memory, video card and power supply upgrades so working inside a computer isn't completely foreign to me. I have a little (I hope!) problem.


MY SYSTEM:

Case & Power Supply: Antec Sonata III 500 Quiet Super Mid Tower ATX Case (Black)

Motherboard: MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Processor: Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz 6 MB Cache Socket LGA1155

CPU Cooling Fan: ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink (with Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound)

RAM: 8GB Kit (4GBx2), Ballistix 240-pin DIMM, DDR3 PC3-10600 memory module

Video Card: EVGA SuperClocked 01G-P3-1461-KR GeForce GTX 560 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1 TB 7200RPM SATA 6Gb/s with NCQ 32MB Cache 3.5 Inch Internal Bare Drive ST31000524AS

Optical Drive: Sony 24X SATA Internal DVD+/-RW Drive AD-7260S-0B - Bulk (Black)


OVERVIEW:

I followed the assembly instructions up to first boot. First boot didn't go as planned. I tried to fix it. Couldn't. Went ahead and installed the hard drive and optical drive. Tried again to fix the first boot problem. Couldn't. Here I am.


WHAT‘S HAPPENING:

When I push the power button, everything seems fine at first. All fans spin (CPU, case, video card, power supply). There are six lights on the mother board (the Active Phase Switching LEDs) that come on and the power on and reset buttons on the mother board are also illuminated. The power light on the front of the case lights up. This is where things go awry. Instead of the single beep indicating that all is well, I'm getting a long beep followed by three short higher-pitched beeps. (Unfortunately, the manual that came with the motherboard doesn't have the beep codes listed.) "98," "99" and "B2" flash quickly in the lower right corner of the screen. Then the following appears:

Marvell 88SE91xx Adapter - BIOS version 1.0.0.1027

Initializing...

After a brief moment, "Initializing..." is replaced on the screen with:

PCIe: x1 5.0 GBPS
Mode: Passthru IDE

Disk Information:
No hard disk is detected!

Press <Space> to continue.

It doesn't wait for me to press the space bar. It's only on the screen for a moment. Then "A8" briefly appears in the lower right corner. If I haven't cleared the BIOS, the screen then goes dark. I don't mean that it goes black as though an all-black image is being displayed. I mean the monitor goes dark as though it isn't displaying anything. If I have cleared the BIOS, the following appears on the screen at this time:

E7681IMS v1.12 06/08/2011

Intel (R) Core(TM) i5-2500K CPU @ 3.30 GHz, Speed: 100x33=3300 MHz

DRAM Frequency for DDR3 1333 MHz (Dual Channel)
DRAM Size: is 8192 MB

USB Devices Total: 1 KBDS, 1 Mice, 0 Mass, 2 HUBS

Detected ATA/ATAPI devices...
SATA Port 4: Optiarc DVD RW AD-7280S
SATA Port 6: ST31000524AS

All settings were reset to default values.
Press F1 to run SETUP
Press F2 to continue

This screen stays until I press F1 or F2. If I press F1, it says "Entering setup..." at the bottom of the screen and then it goes dark. The CPU fan does seem to speed up, as though it's doing something but I can't see it if it is. If I press F2, the screen just goes dark.

Once the screen goes dark, nothing happens until I turn the computer off. I've never seen the screen to set the BIOS/CMOS parameters.

Note: I know all the peripherals I’m using are good. I use them on the system I’m using right now.


WHAT I'VE TRIED:

1) Thinking it might be some sort of grounding problem, I removed the nine screws mounting the motherboard and the two screws fixing the video card to the back of the case. I then slipped wood shims in so as to lift the motherboard up and away from the case so that it was only resting on - and in contact with - the shims. No difference.

2) Thinking it might be bad memory or that I wasn't putting the modules in the correct slots, I tried one of my two memory modules in all four slots on the motherboard then tried the other one in all four slots. Other than reporting 4096 MB of RAM (single channel) instead of 8192 MB of RAM (dual channel), there wasn't any difference.

3) Only one of my six-pin power connectors is labeled “PCI-E.” The other is labeled “P3.” Thinking there might be an issue with the video card not getting enough power, I used an adapter cable that came with the video card to use two of the larger four-pin power connectors in conjunction with the “PCI-E” power connector to power the video card. No difference.

4) I've carefully reviewed the assembly instructions to see if I missed something or did something wrong. I don't see anything.

5) I’ve read the first ten pages of posts in this forum and haven’t found a thread that describes this exact problem.

I’m out of ideas. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[JaneDoe308]

Really? Two weeks, 47 views and no suggestions?

No worries.

I took it down to a repair shop and had it diagnosed. The problem was that the high quality "Guaranteed-compatible with the MSI (Micro Star) P67A-GD65" Crucial memory was either bad or not quite as compatible as one would have hoped. I bought eight gigs of Kingston memory from a local vendor and now my super PC is super.

Thanks anyway.

[RickyTick]

Wow, sorry. I don't know how I missed this post. Glad you got it figured out.

[zburns]

Ricky, I have a question about the JaneDoe Post. In the 'Whats New?' subjects at the top of the page, exactly how long did JaneDoe's Post sit there? Just 24 hours or longer? It was completely unanswered and missed by all of us, and that is unusual, actually, very 'rare'.

I assume it was in the 'Whats New' section only 24 hours and then it got buried behind some other posts in the First Boot section, and we have to go into that section in order to see it! And there have been a lot of new Posts by new members in the last several weeks. I assure all readers that this mishap is unusual and purely accidental.
------------------------

[RickyTick]

I have to admit that I saw the original post when it first popped up, but I was at work and didn't have time to answer it right away. I thought I'd get back to it later in the day, but there were several other posts that day, and once a post leaves the "New Posts" category, it's really easy to miss it or forget about it.

I think the problem is that once you view a post in the "New Posts" list it is removed. I think it should stay there for 24 hours or so. In fact, it should be "Latest Posts" and not "New Posts".

[Rob]

Really? Two weeks, 47 views and no suggestions?

No worries.

I took it down to a repair shop and had it diagnosed. The problem was that the high quality "Guaranteed-compatible with the MSI (Micro Star) P67A-GD65" Crucial memory was either bad or not quite as compatible as one would have hoped. I bought eight gigs of Kingston memory from a local vendor and now my super PC is super.

Thanks anyway.

Don't be too hard on us, Jane. Even great contributors like we have here sometimes have one slip through. For your part, it's always ok after a few days to do a "bump" on your message, which just means replying to your own message with usually just the one word "bump" so it bubbles back to the top and gets re-highlighted as having a new post. Honestly, I think it's very rare to see a post unanswered for even 24 hours. Oftentimes it's even much quicker than that. On our part, I'll see if there's anything I can do to help isolate recent messages or something. We're constrained by the toolset in VBulletin, but I'll have a look. Anyway, I'm glad it was sorted out.

[Rob]

Ok, I have made a change that should help. Now on the Navigation bar you should see two options, one for New Posts and one for Todays Posts. Previously the forum showed one or the other, but not both. I made a change so that both should show at the same time on the Navigation bar. And I modified Todays Post to include posts for the last three days, instead of just one day. So by regularly using Todays Posts you can see all the posts made within the last three days whether they've been read or not.

[RickyTick]

Perfect!! Thanks Rob.

[Rob]

My pleasure. I'm glad I was able to figure something out that would help. Thank you guys for the great advice you provide.

[kiranatwo]

Hi JD,
My father and I have been having the same issues as you described back in 12/2011. We replaced the MB and still the same lack of progress after "entering setup..." appears on the monitor. We also have the same exact memory and we're wondering what kind of Kingston memory you bought that solved your problem. If you could share that with us we would be grateful! How is the computer doing now?

No worries.

I took it down to a repair shop and had it diagnosed. The problem was that the high quality "Guaranteed-compatible with the MSI (Micro Star) P67A-GD65" Crucial memory was either bad or not quite as compatible as one would have hoped. I bought eight gigs of Kingston memory from a local vendor and now my super PC is super.

Thanks anyway.[/QUOTE]

[ARchamps]

Hi JD,
My father and I have been having the same issues as you described back in 12/2011. We replaced the MB and still the same lack of progress after "entering setup..." appears on the monitor. We also have the same exact memory and we're wondering what kind of Kingston memory you bought that solved your problem. If you could share that with us we would be grateful! How is the computer doing now?

No worries.

I took it down to a repair shop and had it diagnosed. The problem was that the high quality "Guaranteed-compatible with the MSI (Micro Star) P67A-GD65" Crucial memory was either bad or not quite as compatible as one would have hoped. I bought eight gigs of Kingston memory from a local vendor and now my super PC is super.

Thanks anyway.[/QUOTE]

What mobo do you have? As long as you install the RAM as a pair (assuming dual channel), you shouldn't have any trouble. G.skill, Corsair, Kingston, Mushkin make quality products that many members here (and on other forums) constantly recommend.

[kiranatwo]

Hi AR,
Sorry my post got mixed with the one I was responding to. The "No worries" and repair shop bit were from the poster I was try to ask my question to. We had the same problem as JaneDoe and, yes, have used the Crucial memory as a pair and exactly as recommended by the site. We were encouraged that she was able to overcome her problem by replacing with Kingston memory and just wondered what the specs were so we could try as well. Otherwise we are looking at a blank screen just like she was. Any thoughts would be gratefully received. Oh, and the MB is the same as she lists as well - it's our second try from MSI.

[zburns]

Hi kiranatwo:

I will try to help you. Your post above is a little confusing but from this quote
Otherwise we are looking at a blank screen just like she was, I assume you have a non working computer; no need to confirm unless 'everything is ok and there is no problem'.

Your mobo is MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67.

What total amount of memory do you have installed? Since it is Crucial Memory, please provide the cat # and serial # from each stick (you have 2 sticks, correct?)

Is this a new build? Or is it an existing build you did some months (or more than a year ago) ago?
----------------
Does the computer seem to go thru the normal boot process but in the end, all you get is a blank screen? Going thru the normal boot process would mean you see somewhat familar 'black and white screens' during the boot process, then a 'black' screen which is indicitive of the problem.
---------------
Main question is what caused the failure. You could have RAM failure, cpu failure or motherboard failure. During the build process or the 'troubleshooting process', you would be 'handling' and 'removing' components from the computer case. While doing this it is most important that the person doing this 'guard' against a static discharge from himself to the computer while working on the computer. With the power cord, ALWAYS, unplugged from the back of the computer case, wearing a wrist strap connected to the computer housing is the best method to prevent static discharge, during the process of adding or removing components inside the case.

It is MANDATORY that the power cord be unplugged from the case before ever placing your hand inside the case. Failure to exercise good 'static' control procedure can be a cause of component failure. Very cold and dry climate in the winter is the worst time of year for static.

Is the mobo presently installed, the second motherboard to be installed? Summing up, please comment on anything I have said or just confirm it. As a double check, give me your Crucial Cat # and serial # off each stick of RAM. I am guessing you have 8 gigabyte. I also assume (almost forgot to ask) you have 64 bit Win 7 as your OS.

Obviously, please answer any question I asked.

[kiranatwo]

Hi kiranatwo:

I will try to help you. Your post above is a little confusing but from this quote , I assume you have a non working computer; no need to confirm unless 'everything is ok and there is no problem'.

Your mobo is MSI P67A-GD65 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67.

What total amount of memory do you have installed? Since it is Crucial Memory, please provide the cat # and serial # from each stick (you have 2 sticks, correct?)

Is this a new build? Or is it an existing build you did some months (or more than a year ago) ago?
----------------
Does the computer seem to go thru the normal boot process but in the end, all you get is a blank screen? Going thru the normal boot process would mean you see somewhat familar 'black and white screens' during the boot process, then a 'black' screen which is indicitive of the problem.
---------------
Main question is what caused the failure. You could have RAM failure, cpu failure or motherboard failure. During the build process or the 'troubleshooting process', you would be 'handling' and 'removing' components from the computer case. While doing this it is most important that the person doing this 'guard' against a static discharge from himself to the computer while working on the computer. With the power cord, ALWAYS, unplugged from the back of the computer case, wearing a wrist strap connected to the computer housing is the best method to prevent static discharge, during the process of adding or removing components inside the case.

It is MANDATORY that the power cord be unplugged from the case before ever placing your hand inside the case. Failure to exercise good 'static' control procedure can be a cause of component failure. Very cold and dry climate in the winter is the worst time of year for static.

Is the mobo presently installed, the second motherboard to be installed? Summing up, please comment on anything I have said or just confirm it. As a double check, give me your Crucial Cat # and serial # off each stick of RAM. I am guessing you have 8 gigabyte. I also assume (almost forgot to ask) you have 64 bit Win 7 as your OS.

Obviously, please answer any question I asked.

Thanks for your help! Below are our specs:

Power supply: Antec Sonata III with 500-Watt power supply
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz
Mainboard: MSI P67A-GD65(B3) LGA 1155
RAM: Crucial Ballistix 8GB Kit (2x4GB) PC3-10600 DDR3
Video: EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1GB DDR5
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Green 2TB 7200rpm SATA 3
DVD: Sony 24x SATA DVD RW/CDRW (Black)
Keyboard / Mouse: Logitech MK 520


We are being very careful with static protection and have worn wrist straps grounded to the box for longer than is probably necessary. Ditto with unplugging the power supply before making any changes.

Additional info on the RAM: Crucial BLT2KIT4G3D1337DT1TX0 8GB Kit (4GBx2). These numbers appear on each of the 4 GB sticks: BG112J5.CN and 138620. Also, one of the specs for RAM is the latency rate. These show 7-7-7-24 at 1.5V on our Crucial sticks.

This is a new build that we started end of December, had trouble with the POST (1 long, 2 short beeps and never got into BIOS menu after initial menus showing onboard devices). We took the whole box to a friend who works at the Geek Squad and he said we had done a good job and suggested a few more ideas. We have reset the CMOS, removed all devices and got same beeps and black screen, removed MB - reconnected and retested, etc. It was determined the MB was bad so we exchanged it thru NewEgg and are now having a similar experience. Seeing JaneDoe's post about possible RAM incompatability has given us some hope.

Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit has not yet been installed on the new HD.

Again, thanks for your help and thoughts about what we should do next. The return guarantee on the RAM ends this Thursday 2/2!

[zburns]

Hello,

Thanks for the reply. A couple of questions right now, easy to answer! Your quote:
Ditto with unplugging the power supply before making any changes. Does this mean unplugging from the wall or does it mean something else?

When you handle printed circuit board components such as RAM, the motherboard, any other circuit board and finally the cpu -- the right procedure is to be wearing a wrist strap grounded to the case (clear - not painted - metal) via alligator clip.

Regarding the power cord from outlet to back of computer case. Whenever, you are going to work on the case and go into the computer, it is best to unplug the power cord and remove it some distance from the work table -- doing this makes it harder for you to 'accidentally' leave the cord in place and make an error. You are aware that even tho, the computer is off, via the front panel buttons there is still +5v on the psu and mobo. I cannot tell you for sure that the rear on/off switch does shut down incoming voltage - I assume so, but have no way of knowing for certain -- for this reason I like to remove the power cord from the work area as both 'a safety precaution and a means against making a mental error later in the process'.

When you handle the RAM, motherboard, etc. you never touch the individual components nor the 'traces' on the circuit board -- you only handle the board by the 'edges of the board' where the surfaces 'are clearly the fibreglass board material' and nothing else. For example when you pick up a RAM stick, do so with thumb and forefinger by gently gripping the narrow dimension board -- again making sure you keep clearance between finger and 'metal circuit board traces'. For the motherboard, since it measures about 10 x 12 inches, you use the side of one finger on one side of the mobo and likewise on the opposite mobo side. If you have 'clear' mobo surface - no components, no traces - it is alright to 'grip' it at that point - but you have to stay away from components and traces. In general you want to handle things the way I was first describing -- light pressure on the 'edges' - two fingers, one on each side.

When you handle the cpu, just be certain to absolutely handle it from the edges only -- never touch any of the pins!

There are two of you involved. Only one person should be handling components into the case or in general messing with the case, components at any one time -- not two people at the same time. I cannot tell you why it should be this way; it is just that everything you read about static control assumes one person only. I only 'study' or 'think about' static control in the 'one person being the only person' involved.

Next, did you happen to order anything 'Open Box' from Newegg. I take this phrase to mean that someone at newegg has handled the component, and, or a previous owner returned the component to newegg. It is best to get components in the original factory packaging that has never been opened after the factory packed it and only opened by the end user, in this case, you folks.

I am just mentioning things that are best practices. You have had some failed component or components -- there is a 'cause' somewhere.

[zburns]

See 2nd addendum at the bottom of this post
Addendum after reading this post. I suggest the first thing you do is to try to operate with just one stick of RAM installed. See RAM comments below, just make sure you pick the right slot -- your mobo manual will tell you which slot for only one RAM stick. All you are looking for right now is for the beep code to change to the correct sequence (whatever that is), so try both sticks separately. If one works, that should predict that the other stick will not work.
--------
Here are some beep code on line comments you should look at: http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm (2012); http://the-web-insider.blogspot.com/2011/04/1-long-and-2-short-beeps-problem-solved.html (2012); http://www.pcguide.com/ts/x/sys/beep/awardB12-c.html (2002). I left this 2002 entry in this because it clearly mentions one long, 2 short -- going back ten years.

My quick response just from fast reading is that the codes blame the video card, but also, maybe the mobo (think I saw this but need to recheck). Before I even looked at the beep codes, I checked your i5 2500K specs. It looks like the cpu has onboard video. Assuming this is so, you could remove the video card and work from the video connector on the back of the mobo.

By removing the video card and using cpu video, and if this worked, it would indicate video card failure. However, if the one long, two short persisted this would indicate mobo problem -- but maybe RAM -- since the cpu cannot function w/o Ram feeding it. So when you do this drop down to one stick of RAM. If that fails, change RAM sticks. When you use just one RAM stick, doulble check your mobo manual on 'Installing RAM' -- be sure which slot you use for only one stick -- the manual should spell that out for you.
--------------
I am doing this real fast in order to give you some feed back. I need to stop, take another look, etc. and comment back to you. However, the beep codes are clear in their meaning -- something to do with video.
------
My suggestion right now is to look at the mobo manual regards using the cpu video capability (assuming it is there) and pull the video card. -- If you do this, it obviously has to be in accordance with mobo / cpu specific instructions regards cpu video.
-------------
One last comment, beep codes may not be universal regards applying to all motherboards in the same fashion. Just a comment, I think is correct; hope it does not apply here!!
----------
I will double check the compatibility of the Crucial RAM to the mobo and will get you Kingston numbers asap, hopefully by in the morning. First, before assuming the worst on the crucial, lets check it out further starting with each stick by itself.
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The cpu does not have video capability; my mistake, reading too fast. So you have to leave in the video card. Nevertheless, try operating with only one stick of RAM, then change sticks -- looking for one of the two sticks to WORK

[kiranatwo]

See 2nd addendum at the bottom of this post
Addendum after reading this post. I suggest the first thing you do is to try to operate with just one stick of RAM installed. See RAM comments below, just make sure you pick the right slot -- your mobo manual will tell you which slot for only one RAM stick. All you are looking for right now is for the beep code to change to the correct sequence (whatever that is), so try both sticks separately. If one works, that should predict that the other stick will not work.
--------
Here are some beep code on line comments you should look at: http://www.computerhope.com/beep.htm (2012); http://the-web-insider.blogspot.com/2011/04/1-long-and-2-short-beeps-problem-solved.html (2012); http://www.pcguide.com/ts/x/sys/beep/awardB12-c.html (2002). I left this 2002 entry in this because it clearly mentions one long, 2 short -- going back ten years.

My quick response just from fast reading is that the codes blame the video card, but also, maybe the mobo (think I saw this but need to recheck). Before I even looked at the beep codes, I checked your i5 2500K specs. It looks like the cpu has onboard video. Assuming this is so, you could remove the video card and work from the video connector on the back of the mobo.

By removing the video card and using cpu video, and if this worked, it would indicate video card failure. However, if the one long, two short persisted this would indicate mobo problem -- but maybe RAM -- since the cpu cannot function w/o Ram feeding it. So when you do this drop down to one stick of RAM. If that fails, change RAM sticks. When you use just one RAM stick, doulble check your mobo manual on 'Installing RAM' -- be sure which slot you use for only one stick -- the manual should spell that out for you.
--------------
I am doing this real fast in order to give you some feed back. I need to stop, take another look, etc. and comment back to you. However, the beep codes are clear in their meaning -- something to do with video.
------
My suggestion right now is to look at the mobo manual regards using the cpu video capability (assuming it is there) and pull the video card. -- If you do this, it obviously has to be in accordance with mobo / cpu specific instructions regards cpu video.
-------------
One last comment, beep codes may not be universal regards applying to all motherboards in the same fashion. Just a comment, I think is correct; hope it does not apply here!!
----------
I will double check the compatibility of the Crucial RAM to the mobo and will get you Kingston numbers asap, hopefully by in the morning. First, before assuming the worst on the crucial, lets check it out further starting with each stick by itself.
-----------
The cpu does not have video capability; my mistake, reading too fast. So you have to leave in the video card. Nevertheless, try operating with only one stick of RAM, then change sticks -- looking for one of the two sticks to WORK

First, thanks again zburns for your help. My daughter has been doing the writing so far, now the father is kicking in! Full picture – the components listed are as recommended on mysuperpc.com and all are retail packages except the hard drive and Windows 7 Home Premium which are OEM. The first build had the same problems described by JaneDoe and, after having it checked by Geek Squad friends who suggested that the BIOS might be corrupt, I RMA’d the mobo with Newegg. Second mobo same result. We’ve tried all the suggestions – mobo build outside case; installing only CPU, RAM and video card; using single or both RAM sticks in all possible slot combinations, etc.

We are working carefully re static. Wrist strap, Formica counter, concrete floor, rubber soles, etc.. We are disconnecting power cord after switching off with both front and rear panel switches. We are resetting using mobo rear panel reset button. Earlier we tried using the mobo reset jumper, removing battery, etc. with same result.

Experience at startup is as follows: LEDs light up, all fans start, double beep, and then system powers down after 2-3 seconds. Five second wait, then automatically restarts and stays on producing one long and two short beep code. Then monitor displays a screen quickly showing mobo details followed by second screen showing connected device details ending with option to enter BIOS setup (F1) or continue (F2). Pressing either F1 or F2 results in a blank screen and no further action – LEDs, fans, still on.

Thanks for the suggestion re trying a single stick of RAM. I tried each of them in the DIMM 1 slot as recommended in the mobo manual – same result. I don’t know much about RAM, but I noticed that the specs on manufacturers other then Crucial seemed to have sticks that have a higher latency, e.g. 9-9-9-27 or higher whereas the recommended Crucial ones are 7-7-7-24. Ripjaws site mentions that 9-9-9 is an industry standard. Wondering whether the mobo doesn’t like the lower latency? Grasping at straws!

Further ideas greatly appreciated.

[zburns]

Here is the data I have accumulated for you. It should be complete, I hope, in all respects. I am going to go ahead and post this; I will look it over in the next hour for a 'final correctness'. I will have some comments similar to yours above about the latency -- that seems to be significant!! Here is everything:

To get to Kingston Memory do the following in order:
1. Enter this URL in search box: http://www.kingston.com/us/memory/hyperx/search
2. Page is labeled: 'Kingston', then below 'HyperX Memory Search'
3. On this Kingston page, note left vertical column named 'Search Filter' at column top.
4. Check off five (5) column topics (do not check Product Line) as follows: Capacity, 8GB; Speed, 1333MHz; Memory Type, DDR3;
Form Factor, DIMM; Kit, Dual Channel Kit.

This gets you to three memory choices, the Genesis does not count unles you want 4 sticks. Use the bottom 2 Blu Mem Upgrades. I suggest you choose the more expensive one, about $ 10 more. Total for 2 sticks about $ 50 at Newegg.

Here are the two Newegg links for the two different items: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104231&Tpk=KHX1333C9D3B1K2%2f8G
and http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104290&Tpk=KHX1333C9D3B1RK2%2f8G

Here are PDF data sheets describing both memory sticks completely: http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1333C9D3B1RK2_8G.pdf and http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1333C9D3B1K2_8G.pdf

[zburns]

I agree with you on the latency issue. When I first started my responses to your initial posts, I focused on static, particularly because of the time of year - cold freezing weather - something had to account for the problems. It does appear that the latency issue is significant. I would go ahead and change the RAM. Just make sure that whatever you buy has the 'higher latency, e.g. 9-9-9-27' . You are looking for one thing only as the problem, not multiple things; therefore, it is reasonable to assume that there is something wrong spec wise with the initial memory choice.

I would suggest you contact Crucial about what you have discovered, see what they say, give us a post back. I will probably do the same, but it is your RAM and your time that has been spent; crucial should be informed. Let us know how it goes from this point.

There is one other item I should bring up and that is about 'static control'. I have said this already. Anytime for any reason that you open up the computer case with the intention of 'putting a hand inside the case', please remove the power cord first, and force yourself to remember to ALWAYS remove the power cord from the vacinity of the computer housing -- I actually take mine out of the room -- I try to make 'a big statement to myself' that there is no way I will have a power cord connected if I open the computer housing case. By doing this, I figure, I am elevating my concern about static to a high level, and, therefore, I will always be concerned and not leave the 'cord' connected accidentally. It is sort of a 'dumb' thing to do or a 'dumb' approach -- but you do not forget it either.

Do not hesitate to ask any questions, glad to help!

EDIT: In my comments in next to last para, regards static and removing the power cord, I did not mention that 'it is a given that the wrist strap is always used and connected to the case' -- I was just assuming that was understood from the previous post -- never hurts to emphasize use of the wrist strap.

[zburns]

As far as I know the above memory that I found for your motherboard is the only Kingston memory that is both compatible with your motherboard and fits the requirement for 8 gigabyte total via 2 - 4 gigabyte sticks. Their best memory is the Hyper X line, their 'ValueRam' memory is the more 'competative' line. Here is the link to get to Kingston's computer 'memory' calculator: http://www.kingston.com/us/memory/search/Options/ You plug in your mfg, model number and that gets you to the memory page I already gave you the link for, this page: http://www.kingston.com/us/memory/hyperx/search

This is from your post 11:49am:
Thanks for the suggestion re trying a single stick of RAM. I tried each of them in the DIMM 1 slot as recommended in the mobo manual – same result. I don’t know much about RAM, but I noticed that the specs on manufacturers other then Crucial seemed to have sticks that have a higher latency, e.g. 9-9-9-27 or higher whereas the recommended Crucial ones are 7-7-7-24. Ripjaws site mentions that 9-9-9 is an industry standard. Wondering whether the mobo doesn’t like the lower latency? Grasping at straws!

Generally speaking, if you are very careful when following instructions, which you seem to be, and you have a problem -- the cause of the problem is going to be a single item on one component. Provided that 'single problem' does not cascade thru other components causing more problems, then you eventually can isolate that single problem. Right now you have to assume that the Crucial Ram with the low latency numbers is the problem and that it is not functioning at all or it is doing something that connects to, or causes, the source of your problem.

The RAM I picked out is one choice out of three (and one of them is 4 sticks total, not 2 which is what you presently have and asked for). The choice I recommended to you is the RED Limited Edition, about $ 10 more than the other Kingston choice. But these are the only two Kingston choices for your mobo at two sticks, 4 gig each.

You have the links to chase all this down and arrive at the same conclusion. The two Newegg links (my 2:03 pm post) are for two Kingston RAM choices, the Red Limited Edition is the so called 'better' of the two. And they both have 'heat spreaders' on them. If there are any questions, just 'post' back with them.

EDIT: I need to clarify a topic. The RAM I found for you above is two different versions of Kingstons Hyper X line. They have a ValueRam line which costs less. I saw a stick of it, costs about $ 20 for one stick, but had no heat spreaders. The Hyper X line is their premier line, I assume -- when I refer to 'these are the only two or three choices, I am refering to the HyperX Line, and specifically the Red Limited Edition.

[kiranatwo]

Z,
Thank you again for your detailed and thoughtful recommendations. We have arranged with Crucial to return the RAM and are just waiting to see if it's possible to communicate with JaneDoe308 directly for a little feedback on her experience. After that we will proceed with a replacement RAM order based on the above. We will keep you posted.

K

[zburns]

Good Morning and thanks for the reply.

I found it interesting that by going thru Kingston's procedures to find acceptable RAM that I only wound up with a total of three cat # choices in the HyperX line, and, this is out of hundreds of choices within the Kingston line. After using the Kingston search software that started with mobo mfg, then mfg's part #, then 'a search thru Kingston's inventory' based on specs (ie specific characteristics), it is a surprise to find out that there are only three choices and one of those is for four sticks instead of just two sticks.

I wanted to give you as much detail as I could on the assumption that you would follow the same procedures going thru the Kingston lineup -- this provides you with an independant 'double check' on the items you order. I assume you have done this and come up with the same results as I did; if you have not, please do so.

I have never dealt with Kingston; however, there are a decent number of repected manufacturers in the 'memory' businesses; Kingston is certainly one of the best manufacturers and I would not hesitate to use their product. There process for selecting the RAM is interesting; it is dependant on the 'potential purchaser' meaning whoever uses Kingston's 'selection software' must use it correctly. Therefore, if you use it and end up with the same result, then we all have confidence in that result.

Again, any questions, just do a post and ask!! Good luck!
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It is a good idea to get the exact cat# of JaneDoes Kingston RAM as a further double check. Just remember that the HyperX with heat spreaders is the top of the line. There are some lower costs sticks without the heatspreaders. Also, not mentioned at all by myself, is the probable fact that the HyperX sticks -- in a pair are 'a matched pair'. I cannot tell you 'specifically' what they mean by matched, but logically, there are some characteristics, spec wise, that probably have to be very close in tolerance in order for the RAM to perform to a proven and well defined high standard.

Cover all bases: The Newegg Cat #s are the Kingston cat #s.

[kiranatwo]

Good news, Z. The Kingston memory you recommended arrived from Newegg this week and after installing it the POST worked! I am now able to enter the BIOS setup without the system freezing. I guess it was an incompatability due to the latency of the Crucial memory recommended in the superpc build. If so, we are the third instance I've discovered of this problem being solved by changing the RAM. the one other here was JaneDoe308 and there was also one on the MSi forum back in December.

I'm sure to have more questions, but I'll post a new thread to the appropriate forum then. At least we're past POST! Thanks so much for your help -- much appreciated. Not sure Rob understood my request to engage JaneDoe308. I didn't want to email her -- only to have a moderator invite her to return to her forum thread. Oh well, she helped anyway.

S

[zburns]

Glad you got if fixed. It was not the Kingston memory that did the trick, at least thats my thought. How the Crucial RAM with that latency got on a recommended list was the problem. Still needs to be pursued with Crucial.

Good luck on finishing up!

[Rob]

Great catch, Z. I've updated the RAM recommendation.