Hi I'm new here 1st time builder

[installman]

Hi all
Just wanted to see if anyone here could look this build over for me. This computer will be used for basic stuff. Internet, word processing, kids projects, photo editing, etc. I am replacing a 5 year old imac g5, so I figure this should be a substantial upgrade. I am planning on running Ubuntu/linux for an operating system.
Thanks for your help.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811154101
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136795
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824262011
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823174010
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826146011
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.660352

[zburns]

Installman, welcome to the forums. You are proposing an interesting build. On first glance, I thought everything looked ok. And, I probably still think that way. However, what caught my eye was the mobo does not have a video chipset, yet it has video monitor output connections (for the monitor). I did quickly see the Intel graphics as part of the Sandy Bridge processor, but I did not connect on how Intel gets from the cpu to the video output plugs on the rear of the mobo. Anyway I looked up the Intel specs on the cpu, and it does appear to have all that is needed for video processing from the integrated graphics portion of the cpu. Here is the link to the Intel spec sheet on the cpu: http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=53422 Video specs near the end of the spec sheet.

Your build does appear to be okay; I will look at it some more tonight and make a comment later tonight or tomorrow am.

By the way, you can probably do ok with photo editing. I am not sure about any video editing of any quanity or large number of single video frames -- takes a lot of memory and fast volumn processing. This is just my understanding of video editing from studying Photoshop requirements.

[installman]

zburns
Thanks for looking at it. I have been busy trying to find out if there are drivers to run the intel graphics with ubuntu and it seems there are so hopefully everything will work out.

[zburns]

I am making a note regards your case and the included power supply. It is a 300 watt psu; the problem is that they do not break down the various wattages at the different voltages. 300 watts is pretty small, the amount available for the mobo and cpu will be smaller still; so that has to be looked at. The psu, unequivocally, can affect the 'health' and 'welfare' of all of your components it feeds power to. Generally, cases and psus recommended on the forum come from well known manfacturers with a long record of quality products. Again, I am not being critical, just saying that more should be known about the psu.

[installman]

Would this be a better choice for case/psu http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.662129, Also would this ram be a better match http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231396 or do you have a recommendation.
I appreciate your advice on this as I have zero experience and don't want to order parts that won't work together.
Thanks Stan

[zburns]

That is a much better choice of case and psu. Coolermaster is a trusted manufacturer which means a lot. Their business depends on their reputation. You try to be sure that the power (watts) on the 12 volt rails, required for cpu plus video output plus circuit board operating watts is, at least, 70% to 80 % of the available wattage for the 12 volt rails. I am sure you have more than enough but I would still like to see something in the Intel Spec that tells me so.

As far as the RAM goes, both RAM choices need to be checked as being 'compatible' with the motherboard, such info being on a list of 'compatible RAM' from the mobo mfg.. I will try to find that also.

I have been all morning dealing with a messed up UPS shipment. That is done. In the next serveral hours I will look at the above and post comments back to you!

[zburns]

Your memory choices are not on your motherboard approved list. You can go to this link to see what I am talking about: http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/memory_report.php?S_ID=528 The RAM listed has been tested by BIOSTAR as compatible with your motherboard. I will be back on it shortly, but it requires some 'check' and 'recheck'. The BIOSTAR home page for the USA shows some really old 'pages' which are not applicable but they 'confuse' . I am pretty sure I am on the right page but I also want to recheck that.

[installman]

OK I changed the case and power supply, and changed to some kingston ram that was on the list.Hopefully all this time I am spending researching and checking reviews is worth it and I end up with a quality budget computer.
Thanks again for all your help zburns and let me Know if I am on the right track.

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Item #: N82E16827135204
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
$20.99


Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822136795
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
$59.99


HANNspree By Hanns-G HF225DPB Black 21.5" Full HD WideScreen LCD Monitor w/Speakers
Item #: N82E16824262011
Return Policy: Limited Replacement Only Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
-$40.00 Instant
$159.99
$119.99


DCT Factory KBJ-006UB Black USB Standard Keyboard
Item #: N82E16823174010
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
$7.99


GIGABYTE GM-M5050 Glossy Black 1 x Wheel USB Wired Optical Curvey Mouse
Item #: N82E16826146011
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
$7.99


Kingston ValueRAM 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model KVR1333D3N9K2/4G
Item #: N82E16820134810
Return Policy: Memory Standard Return Policy
$44.99


COOLER MASTER ELITE 335 RC-335-KKN1-GP Black SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811119161
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
COOLER MASTER Elite 460 RS-460-PSAR-J3 460W ATX12V V2.31 Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817171046
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
-$10.00 Instant
-$20.00 Combo
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
$89.98
$59.98


Intel Core i3-2100 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I32100
Item #: N82E16819115078
Return Policy: CPU Replacement Only Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
BIOSTAR H67MH LGA 1155 Intel H67 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813138310
Return Policy: Standard Return Policy
Protect Your Investment (expand for options)
-$7.00 Instant
-$15.00 Combo
$10.00 Mail-in Rebate
$214.98
$192.98
Subtotal: $514.90

[RickyTick]

For $1 more you can get a 640gb hard drive.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136319

[installman]

Hi Thanks Ricky
The only difference I see other than $1 and 140 gb more capacity is sata 3 vs sata 6 would I even notice a difference speedwise between the 2 in this system?

[zburns]

I was about to post the GSkill RAM from the same memory support list, so I see you found it. Your Kingston RAM is on the same list, so that 'double checks' us both. I read over the list and it looks fine, in general. There is no way to tell if you will like that keyboard; I am making the comment solely based on what it will cost. But if it does not work out, not a lot of dollars lost. Your total cost is amazingly low! The reviews on the i3-2100 are very good for a basic computer.

The power supply may be overkill. Your processor has a TDP (Total Design Power) of 95 watts and that includes the graphics. I will have a final estimated power consumption of the rest of the components in the morning fairly early.

My earlier comments on the first choice of power supply had to do with 'not knowing the manufacturer', therefore, no way to trust the psu. A quality and reliable psu is mandatory to protect your other components. No question the manufacturer matters. I am trying to estimate the total wattage of your new computer. The total wattage the computer will use or consume should be a reasonable percentage of the maximum output of the psu. You have a micro mobo, no graphics card (they can get really hot), and your processor is 'downsized' somewhat so 'the figures that make up the total wattage are different from a full size desktop.

[RickyTick]

Hi Thanks Ricky
The only difference I see other than $1 and 140 gb more capacity is sata 3 vs sata 6 would I even notice a difference speedwise between the 2 in this system?

You won't notice a bit of difference between sata 3 and 6, but you'll notice a very big difference between 500 and 640 gb. :)

[zburns]

Good morning (still 10 minutes left in the am). The micro ATX mobo and the i3-2300 because they are smaller watt wise do require some reading and I have been at that pretty steady. Read a review on coolermaster Elite PSU series. Here is a link to that review and I do suggest you read it: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Elite-Power-460-W-Power-Supply-Review/1005/1 It is a half and half review -- half good, half bad. But you have to look at 'what he criticizes. The Elite PSU series, according to the reviewer is not made by Coolermaster but a contract manufacturer. I will have to reread the review and will read some others if I can find some. Whether you are a 'tech' person or not, you can understand this review. Before reading the review I would have recommended dropping down to the 400 watt Elite psu; however, if you stick with this case and the 460 watt psu, the reviewer states that the psu is overrated at 460 watts. In fact he states it is the same psu as the 400 watt version. Only small differences, etc.. I am not sure at this point if I would 'nix' it!

Just for the heck of it, I am going to look at Antec PSU reviews at the same level.

[zburns]

What I am writing about now is very easy to understand, so stay with me!

In my last post I provided a link to the Hardware Secrets Review of the Coolermaster Elite PSU, 460 watt. To better understand what using this psu for your build means, I refer you to page 7 of that review. The reviewer states that he or they could 'pull only 420 watts of power from the psu and he says the 460 watt psu is essentially the same as the 400 watt psu by the same folks. There is also a large table of 'test' results on page 7; they are shown in three 'blocks of data' stacked one on top of the other. Fifteen (15) vertical columns of test results.

Look at Test 5, 7 and 15. (Each test shows as a vertical column) We are interested in the same two results for each of the three tests -- AC Power and Efficiency. (AC Power, five lines up from the bottom of each column; Efficiency right below AC Power) For Test 5, AC Power of 216 watts, Efficiency 81.2%; for Test 7, 279 watts, 81.2%; Test 15, 419.8 watts, 76%.

Test 5, AC Power of 216 watts is the wattage (apx) I calculated as your minimum; Test 7 is your maximum watts, 279 (apx); efficiency for Test 5 & 7 the same 81.2%. Test 15 would be a computer running at 460 watts, but only realizing apx 420 watts at 76 % efficiency -- a poor result for the 460 watt computer. The maximum and minimum watts at slightly better than 80 % efficiency, is in line with a decent power supply.

Assuming the reviewer is correct, you would have a decent psu for a computer requiring 300 watts well regulated power at 80 % efficiency. He implies it is not a good psu for a 460 watt computer because it will not deliver its labeled full load power.

Power supplies that perform better cost more. For example, my case Antec Sonata III with 500 watt Earthwatts psu is about $ 130. It seems that you do have a good selection (case and psu) for your particular computer build.

There is one negative from the reviewer that should be looked into. He states that the label advertises 'Overcurrent Protection' -- this means that if any of the individual voltage rails (outputs) fails or shorts out and trys to deliver too much current, that the circuit or psu will shut down; the reviewer claims this circuit is not in this particular psu but is in the 400 watt version of the Elite psu group. A call or email to Coolermaster should solve that problem.

I apologize for the length and detail. It is a simple analysis. If you have any questions, let me know.

[installman]

Zburns
Thank you for your efforts and diligence in helping to make sure I don't buy garbage, or incompatible parts. I originally was planning on going with a "package build" but after reading about the good vs bad in the packages I decided to pick parts out myself which obviously could have gone poorly without some help / advice from folks like you who have been there and know what to look for. I have spent many hours researching each component to try to find the best reliability/performance I could get for cheap. I am glad I posted here for some expert advice.
Thanks Stan
I have placed my order with newegg, hopefully the psu won't cause me headaches. I sent an email off to coolmaster regarding the psu. I wonder if any of the cheaper psus actually have overcurrent protection. With the combo discount it's 59.98 for the psu and case vs 49.99 case only. So really only paying an extra $10 for the psu.
Hopefully all is here by friday so I can get this thing up and running over the weekend

[installman]

RickyTick
Thanks For the heads up on the drive.
Stan

[zburns]

I sent an email off to coolmaster regarding the psu. I wonder if any of the cheaper psus actually have overcurrent protection This really could be important. Overcurrent protection means that if a failure mode either in the psu or external to the psu (as a short circuit external to the psu) calls for the psu to deliver large amounts of current (enough to harm the mobo, cpu, etc), the overcurrent protective circuit would shut down the psu. If the psu failed internally in a certain way excess current to the mobo and cpu could be damaging.

With regard to one of 'no name' psu's, I actually read in a newegg user review in the last year, that the psu failed and took with it the mobo, cpu and presumably video card.

According to the Hardware Secrets Review, the 400 watt version does have the protection circuit.

Glad I could help. Forgot to mention one thing. I assume you are aware of using a wrist strap for static protection. They are available at most any electronics store; locally Radio Shack. Newegg if you can get it added to the order!

[installman]

I have already been considering just getting a psu locally because I am freaking out about the possibility of no overcurrent protection. I will post up what I find. I also forgot to order the wrist strap, so I will be buying one locally.

[zburns]

You can use the CoolerMaster Elite 400 watt psu. Also, that review was written in 2010, I think. Coolermaster may have corrected the problem, assuming it was there in their routine production in the first place. I know you want to get the new build going, but you have to have a 'no mistakes' attitude which does get in the way of 'hurry up'. Also, the reviewer did say that the 460 watt was essentially the same as the 400 watt.

If you get a psu other than CoolerMaster, I would suggest Antec, OCZ or Coolermaster. Coolermaster has about 6 lines of PSU ranging from expensive to not so expensive. The Elite series is a low cost series; however, it should work fine. If you do not mind puttig a little more dollars into the PSU, then Antec or OCZ or go up a notch in the Coolermaster list. My main point is that it has to be in a factory sealed box.

[installman]

I think I may just go with something like this and not risk it, and keep the coolermaster as a spare.
Ultra LSP450 450-Watt Power Supply - ATX, SATA-Ready, 135mm Fan, Lifetime Warranty w/ Registration

[installman]

posting at the same time. I will have to wait for the stuff to get here anyway, so hopefully I will have a answer from coolermaster by then. If not I will be checking out the brands you have listed.
Thanks Stan

[zburns]

I have looked at the specs on the Ultra. From a theoretical viewpoint, it has one failing. It has only one +12volt rail. I know the coolermaster Elite PSU has two + 12v rails, and (this I must recheck) one rail covers the 4 pin cpu connector and the other rail covers the mobo and other +12v items. Each rail has its own set of cables and plugs, which is better from a 'stability' point of view particularly where a 'surge' of current is required. But there are plenty of PSU mfgs who just use one +12 volt rail; of course, their designers will say their design is just as good, but it is slightly less costly to manufacture.

Technically, the dual +12 volt rails with separate cables win the argument for 'best' design, and the dual +12 volt rails came first, with the single rail design later (means to me, a manufacturing cost decision). The other point, which I cannot confirm quickly, is whether the over current protection circuits would protect the cpu better in the dual (two rail) design as compared to the single rail design. With two +12 volt rails, the currents in the two separate sets of cables are less than in one cable, one rail design. This means overcurrent detection would kick in at a lower value for the two rail design because the 'trip value' for current in each of the two rail cables is much less than in the one rail, one cable design (as much as by 'one half') -- this is my opinion. I can confirm it with the manufacturers but it could take a day or a week to do so.

I also quickly looked at coolermaster's complete psu lineup. They have one 'line' one step up from the Elite group. Otherwise, the rest of their psu products are just 'more powerful' psus, greater than 500 watts. When you get higher than 500 watts, you are getting into the i7 fastest cpus, powerful video cards (sometimes multiples) -- depending on the combinations, levels up to 1200 watts. (Note that the Sandy Bridge cpus have very high speed but same performance at lower power).

I am going to look at the Coolermaster psus and the Antec Earthwatts once more in several hours, and then sort of summarize between the two manufacturers. I have a feeling that Coolermaster is certainly adequate for your purpose; Antec (more expensive) but maybe 'more respected' but almost twice the cost. The overcurrent protection, if it protects each +12 volt rail, as I think it should, would be the deciding factor (all others being equal) if it was my psu.

[installman]

OK so I got tired ow waiting for an email response from coolermaster and tried out the live chat. Here is the result. The question now is do I believe them.

A representative will be connected, please be patient.


Marvin enters the chatroom.
Marvin 13:34:02
Hello Stan Ellertson, thank you for waiting and welcome to Cooler Master Live Help! My name is Marvin and I will be assisting you today. Your case number is 12704 and you may refer to that number for future visits. Please hold for one minute while I review your question. Thank you for your patience.

let me double check for you: one moment


It does.
Stan Ellertson 13:36:49
the reason i am asking is in this review they state it does not.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Elite-Power-460-W-Power-Supply-Review/1005/1


Marvin 13:37:24
They are mistaken

They have gotten sent an early sample before it was released.


Stan Ellertson 13:39:33
The outputs are monitored by the FSP3528 integrated circuit shown in Figure 10. Since we couldn’t figure out which circuit this product was renamed from we can’t tell what protections it really supports. One thing we can say for sure is that it doesn’t support over current protection (OCP), since there is an unused series of holes on the printed circuit board reserved for an “OCP control board”, that is not present.
Marvin 13:42:37
Since we couldn’t figure out which circuit this product was renamed from we can’t tell what protections it really supports.

As i mentioned, they may of gotten sent and early sample of the item


Not the final product.

Only way i can see that it would or wouldnt have that item.


Stan Ellertson 13:43:37
just trying to make sure as I don't want to risk my new computer
Marvin 13:43:45
I will nevertheless bring this up with our superiors to investigate the matter.

I understand.


instead of the Elite, i would suggest you look at the Extreme Power Plus 500W

(to give you peace of mind based on the uncertainty of the elite 460


Stan Ellertson 13:44:53
I already ordered the elite as a package deal from newegg
Marvin 13:45:25
Understood.
Stan Ellertson 13:45:46
Changing now would leave me stuck with a psu I don't need.or I would have to send both back and pay shipping
Marvin 13:45:57
would like me to double-check now and see if there is or there isn't protection on the psu?
Stan Ellertson 13:46:09
Yes Please
Marvin 13:46:17
ok one moment

Ok, not quite sure on the model he had or where he got it from, but the retail that you bought has it


I just confirmed it with the Product Head
Stan Ellertson 13:52:35
Thanks

[zburns]

Interesting conversation. If you had asked me to bet on how the conversation would have proceeded, I would have predicted Marvin's response exactly. Any company with a national name cannot 'misrepresent' in print how such a product is made, particularly it there are consequences 'beyond the product, if the product fails', for example damage to cpu and/or mobo.

I have been back thru the reviews for Coolermaster, both the psu you ordered and the Extreme Power Plus 460 watt which I would also recommend. But as I said yesterday your max watts is probably about 263 watts max and 213 min. If my predicted watts are correct, then for a 420 watt output psu, you will be running at 263 watts about 62 % of full psu output (420 watts). Minimum watts of 213 is about 50% of full psu output (420 watts).

You are one of the first ones to use the new i3-2100 with graphics and still have a fast processor. But you have to use a low power PSU. With the CM 460 Elite, at 263 watts, you are running at about 80 % efficient at your higher wattage and lower wattage. More importantly, the lower wattage is apx 50 % of the max output and the higher wattage about 62 %. This is a good in between spot to be in. You will not be using the PSU at or near max capability, therefore, you will not be heating it up nearly as much, which serves to 'protect' it.

The coolermaster website specification for this Elite PSU, 460 watts states protection modes as follows: OVP / OCP / OPP / SCP; definition for these four protection modes at: http://www.coolermaster.com/tutorial.php These same protection modes are on the lower wattage Elite and also on the Extreme Power Plus 460 watt unit. EDIT, 5pm, Thursday. Your 460 watt psu is in between the 400 watt Elite and the Extreme 460 -- I cannot see Coolermaster leaving it out of the Elite 460, while putting it in the 400 Elite and the 460 Extreme.

The only thing I see that the reviewer really was negative on was that the ripple and noise is greater than more expensive psus but still within ATX standards. Your live chat record is valuable information; obviously, you should keep a record of it including the URL it was posted on.

[installman]

Most of my stuff is here. I am waiting to see what isn't. I will let you know

[installman]

Ok well all that is actually here is kb,cd/dvd,cpu, and memory. Everything else should be here tomorrow. I picked up an esd band today at comp usa. My question is do I need to ground the case somehow first, or is just hooking up to the case sufficient. I am wondering what the deal is with the psu and still not sure I trust it at this point.

[zburns]

Comments on your concern:
I am wondering what the deal is with the psu and still not sure I trust it at this point. First, regards the HardwareSecrets Review and my comment that
The only thing I see that the reviewer really was negative on was that the ripple and noise is greater than more expensive psus but still within ATX standards. In looking at the Antec Earthwatts PSU specs this morning for the 430 watt psu, the 500 watt psu, I see that the 'ripple and noise' spec is likewise 120 millivolts -- so that removes my comment about the reviewers statement. The +12 volt output is the largest power output of the PSU, voltage and power wise; this means that the transformers and wire size physical dimensions are creating the conditions to cause the ripple and noise to be at this level; the physical size of the psu and the housing would have to 'grow' larger, to allow the component sizes to be larger in order 'to reduce the ripple and noise of the +12 volt outputs' -- my opinion. The size of the ripple and noise do meet the ATX (form factor) standards.

The coolermaster specs for the Elite 460 psu are at this link: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2930 . Go down near the bottom of the page to 'Protection' and 'Safety'. Here are the 4 protection modes: OVP / OCP / OPP / SCP; and here is that specification for Safety on the Elite 460 psu: CE / GOST / C-tick / UL .

Note the last entry UL, this means Underwriters Laboratories. There will be a UL sticker on your PSU. This means that Coolermaster is routinely, randomally, checked by UL and that the Coolermaster record of testing for this particular psu is checked by UL. It also means that the 'circuit' is actually in there (the psu). Coolermaster cannot specify this feature and advertise it without the feature actually being 'what it is' and UL must verify its existence from 'time to time'. So this indirectly 'verifies to you' that the circuit is in fact there.

The reviewer for Hardware Secrets is definitely straight forward; I think he knows what he is doing. My only criticism is that he should have complained to UL, got the final product when available, tested and confirmed the replacement product, and linked the 'extra' review to the one I have been using for your build comments.

There has to be a UL sticker on your PSU or on your large psu label, once you get it. Let us assume it is on there; likewise your four protections are part of that UL sticker, etc. and the four protections have to physically be in the PSU. The letters UL have to show externally on the outside of the PSU somewhere. The UL label is your assurance that the four protection circuits -- OVP / OCP / OPP / SCP -- , as claimed by Coolermaster, are there.

Important: UL may be either the letters UL or the letters RU (letters R and U in reverse order). This is the UL Recognized Component Label where a UL approved component is used inside a larger device. -- for example, a computer that you build. When you actually get the case and the Coolermaster psu. Look carefully around the exterior of the psu housing. Either the UL(RU) insignia or a separate UL(RU) label will be somewhere on the outside. Could be part of the large Coolermaster Label -- the UL or RU letters have a particular 'consistent' appearance to them. If you do not see anything that resembles UL or RU, then please post a picture of the main label, and a statement that all other surfaces are blank.

You can go to Newegg, enter the psu #, pull up a picture, rotate it and you will see the 'RU' letters I am referring too. There will be smaller letters C and US on either side of RU, meaning Canada and US -- means approved by UL to meet standards in Canada and the United States.

Comments on static protection will follow shortly.

[zburns]

Here are some links to Kitchen Table Computers website. These two links do address static control, and a legal comment by a lawyer about 'not using the power cord ever while doing the assembly'. It is worthwhile to scan thru the entire website. But the two pages that the links cover are particularly applicable to Static Control and Safety. Here are the links: http://www.kitchentablecomputers.com/static.php --and -- http://www.kitchentablecomputers.com/assemble.php

Here is the Lawyer comment from the second link: But first, some words from my lawyer...

It should go without saying that ALL COMPUTER ASSEMBLY MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE COMPUTER UNPLUGGED FROM THE AC POWER. But my lawyer insisted that I say it anyway. So there. It's been said.
--------------------

Regarding the Lawyer's comments: I would further recommend that whenever you plan to stick your hand inside the computer, that you first 'remove the AC powercord from the back of the computer' and then put it on the floor -- just get it physically away from the computer -- doing this is a 'double check' against making a 'mental error'. You do not want any situation where it is possible to accidentally turn on the power.

Everyone should read the entire page on Static -- well written. One of the page topics - Safety and Anti-Static Rules - has seven Rules. The first four apply strictly to static. One of these tells you to handle 'circuit boards' by the edges only!!

[installman]

Sooo The computer is assembled and os installed. That was an experience in itself lol. The only problem I have is the os(ubuntu) doesn't see my dvd drive. The bios does see it however so I have been trying to find an appropriate driver to download. Once again thanks For all your help I would have been stuck without you.
Stan

[zburns]

I was glad to help. This is an 'oblique' reply to you. Curious, are you trying to load ubuntu and the DVD does not work or what -- I have no experience with ubuntu at all. EDIT -- sorry, I see you have installed the OS.

[zburns]

In the Forum, Under 'First Boot Problem', take a look at this post by Call Me Al, page 8, post # 79. It is about BIOS settings for Integrated Peripherals. Here is the direct link to the page: http://forums.mysuperpc.com/showthread.php?3767-Drives-not-recognized/page8 Since the mobos are probably not the same, the BIOS supplier may be different for the two different mobos. It is possible the Call Me Al problem may have a similarity to yours.

Rather than make any changes based on this link, just look carefully at your BIOS settings versus these.

EDIT-- Do not make changes based on this comment unless we both agree they should be made. This comment based on the Call Me Al link in this post. You have two eSata speed configurations on your mobo, 3 Gb/sec and 6 Gb/sec. If you are using only 6 Gb/sec drives, 3 Gb/sec setting in the BIOS should show 'Disabled' (or the equivalent word). Vice versa if you are using only 3 Gb/sec drives then Int Per 6 Gb/sec settings must show 'Disabled' (or equiv word).

Again, my comments about 'Call Me Al' based on different mobo. There were three places in the BIOS Int Periherals because there were 3 different 'electronics' for esata devices.

You may be right about the lack of driver causing the prob. When loading Win Vista or Win 7 (I assume), the user has the opportunity for Windows to furnish the drivers. AGAIN --I suggest you do not make changes based on my comments yet -- all this is my memory going back to the similarities between your build and 'Call .. Al' build.

[installman]

The bios sees the drive, but I don't have a startup disk to run in it. If I set the bios to boot off dvd it keeps telling me to insert bootable media in the drive and restart. If I open Ubuntu it just doesn't see the drive at all. I am sure something is wrong in the bios, or I need the correct driver to download but so far I haven'y found any linux drivers for asus dvd drives to try. I will post if I get it figured out, but first I have to go out and mow the lawn.
Thanks Stan

[zburns]

EDIT NOTE: The very last paragraph has been rewritten; the first effort was poorly written and I had a hard time making sense of it when I just reread it.

Your manual seems to be in two parts, the mobo assembly instructions (component placement and wiring instructions) and a separate BIOS manual, both PDF files. If you look in the mobo assembly manual, your 6Gb/sec Sata mobo connectors are the two vertical ones closest to the cpu socket. The other 4 on the right hand side of the two I just mentioned are the 3Gb/sec connectors. I assume you are using 6Gb/sec.

In the second manual, for BIOS, pages 4, 11& 12 and 25 may apply to Sata, in particularly Sata 0 or Sata 1. (this may sound screwy, but I am not sure I know which Sata controller 0 or 1 is the faster or slower speed, but one is fast and one is slow. If you are using 6Gb/sec, the faster Sata controller must be used. ....and vice versa.) Page 11 should be self explanatory but the bottom of page 11 continues to top of page 12 (Sata 1 controller on p12). On page 11, in the 'monitor screen', the six Sata ports are the 6 sata plugs on the mobo, I guess.

Serial-ATA Controller '1' may have to be enabled (or enhanced -do not know what that means) and Serial-ATA Controller '0' Disabled OR vice versa -- this was the essence of the 'Call Me Al' problem. And this type prob happened two more times with other forum members after the 'Call Me Al' Thread.

Understand I am not certain about the above being applicable to your mobo and Bios -- but it is similar to previous similar build situations.

Your BIOS comes with Default settings. I assume they will 'mostly' work if just left alone. One of the two SATA controllers -SATA 0 or SATA 1 -- is for the two 6 Gb/s devices; the other Sata Controller is for the four 3 Gb/sec devices , but there are none. Therefore, you will have to set the 3 Gb/sec controller to 'disabled'. (Again, I assume your DVD and HD are SATA 6 Gb/sec devices.)

[zburns]

When I started doing my posts above, I thought you said you had installed Ubuntu. In your 1:04 pm post, just above, what you are saying sounds correct. You have to have 'bootable' media. That can only be a ubuntu OS disc in your DVD, unless you had a prior HD with ubuntu loaded on it for downloading purposes. My suggestion is that you get access to a Sata flash drive that works in USB 2.0, download ubuntu to it, then add the flashdrive into the BIOS with the other drives; then, in the Boot Order BIOS screen, make it first boot. Or burn a disc with ubuntu and use it in your DVD. You will have to know the size of Ubuntu before getting a flash drive -- the 1 or 2 gig are not too expensive. Last you also have to know that what you are downloading is suitable for 'bootable purposes'.

I think the above are your only two choices.
-------------------
The following looks official: https://help.ubuntu.com/community/BootFromCD . I would think an Asus Driver would work, and, that Asus would have taken Ubuntu into account is designing the driver.

[installman]

I just got the dvd drive working. You were correct about the bios settings needing to be changed. I ended up setting the sata mode to ahci and now ubuntu sees it. Yes I had already installed ubuntu via a usb flash drive, but was trying to get the dvd drive working so I could create a startup disk on cd and give my daughter her usb drive back.
Thanks again
Stan

[zburns]

Great!! Really glad it was something simple. Most of the time that is the way it goes!

[installman]

Yes it all worked out finally. I was reluctant to mess with the bios, but i'm not so scared now.