First Build Problems [Archive] - My Super PC Forums - Build Your Own Computer - Message Board

Deneb

10-25-2010, 09:35 AM

Sorry to hear you’re having problems.

My guess is the issue is one of three things the first two of which have to do with the hard drive.

The first possible issue is a bad block on the hard drive. However unlikely it is a possibility.
If you haven’t done a low-level format of the hard drive I’m going to recommend you do that before you load Windows 7 just to make sure that no bad blocks on the drive. Unless you’ve already done a low-level format recently. A low-level format could take about six hours.

The second possibility is that the boot.ini file is pointing to the wrong partition. If you can boot from DOS you can edit this file. But making the drive empty and loading Windows 7 from scratch should make trying to edit the boot.ini unnecessary. Another possibility is a problem with the MBR ( Master Boot Record). A low-level format will fix this.

Back in the day I would have recommended you pull out your handy-dandy DOS 6.22 boot floppy disk and inserted into your floppy drive. But today you probably haven’t got a floppy drive nor a DOS boot disk. So I’m going to recommend to you go to the address below and make yourself a Ubuntu 10.10 64 bit OS install disk. You want to download the ISO image and burn it onto a DVD blank. Active ISO Burner is a good little app for doing this on Windows.

http://www.ubuntu.com/desktop/get-ubuntu/download

Active@ ISO Burner 2.1

http://download.cnet.com/Active-ISO-Burner/3000-2646_4-10602452.html?tag=mncol;1

How to Burn .ISO in Mac OS X 10.6

http://www.ihackintosh.com/2009/09/how-to-burn-iso-in-mac-os-x

Once you have the disk, set your BIOS to boot from the DVD drive if you haven’t done so already, insert the Ubuntu disk and reboot the computer. Select “try Ubuntu”. Wait for it to load the Ubuntu operating system. In this mode you running it off the DVD so you aren’t touching the hard drive. From the upper left select system, administration, Gparted. Gparted is a graphical partition management utility. Use it to delete any and all partitions so that the drive is completely empty. Gparted unfortunately does not have the ability to a low-level format. If you have already done a low-level format you should be able to start the Windows 7 install at this point. If not, another way to accomplish same thing is to insert a Windows XP OS install disk. Follow the prompts and eventually Windows will ask you to make one or more partitions. Make one partition as large as possible and select the full format option. Later on you can load Windows XP just to see if it will load. Then you go back to the Ubuntu disc and make the hard drive empty. Then you should be able to load Windows 7.

Note that a Windows XP disc that does not have either service pack one, two, or three slipstreamed into it cannot see a hard drive bigger than 128 GB. Most of the discs sold in recent years have one of the service packs slipstreamed into the disk. However if you have an original one from before 2003 it may not.

Another possible issue is if you have connected any USB drives or thumb drives to computer. Just have the one hard drive connected when you’re loading Windows 7.

The third possibility is that you have a hard drive related setting in the BIOS that needs to be changed. Change the access mode from auto to Large.

Explanation:
Access Mode (Disk settings and the Access Mode (Translation Method))

“CHS (Cylinder-Head-Sector) (Normal) - Older method of defining the disk size by help of manual entering of number of cylinders, heads and sectors. At present, this method is not used and the LBA method is used most frequently. Designed for disks lesser than 504MB.
LBA (logical block address) - using of linear sector addressing. The LBA was first designed to exceed the limitation of 504MB and to reach the capacity of 8GB. With the coming Int13h Ext. it starts to support the newest capacities. Instead of the classical CHS addressing, the 28-bit addressing of particular sectors is used. So, according to the ATA specification the
BIOS can address sectors in the order from 0 to 268435455.

Large (Extended CHS) - other way of sector addressing. This is the recommended option in case you have some problems with the LBA support under your operating system. Standard mode for SCSI disks where the CHS configuration is not used. >From the view of the OS the CHS is translated to LBA.

Auto - Automatic setup of the access mode (usually LBA).”

http://www.adminxp.com/hardware/index.php?aid=129

How to fix Missing operating system: Windows 7:

http://windows7themes.net/missing-operating-system-windows-7.html (http://windows7themes.net/missing-operating-system-windows-7.html)

Woody

10-25-2010, 09:51 AM

Deneb,

Thanks very much for all of the information. I do remember seeing something about the hard drive in the error message that was temporarily on the screen.

I will try your suggestions tonight after work and thanks again for your help.

Woody

10-25-2010, 07:41 PM

As Deneb suggested, I may have an issue with the hard drive. I have not been able to run the Western Digital diagnostics program and was hoping someone could help me figure out how to do that. I downloaded the files and extracted them and then copied them to a blank CD. I then insert the CD into the new computer and reboot and nothing happens. I get the missing operating sytem message. The DVD drive spins but nothing loads up.

I went into the CMOS setup to look around to see if I could figure anything out and I noticed that my hard drive and DVD drive no longer show up in the "Standard CMOS Features" category.

zburns

10-25-2010, 08:41 PM

Woody

10-25-2010, 09:00 PM

Woody, lets take a time out on all this!! I will try to help you several ways. I cannot use Deneb's recommendations without reading and studying them first.

What matters to me more is to find out from you if you are following Rob's assembly instructions from his book or from his "online" assembly page. Here is the link to his online assembly page: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_parts_list.shtml

At the bottom of the page, he gives you in vertical order the steps of the assembly process. I need you to be following this page; this means I can communicate with you thru Rob's instructions, etc., ask questions, and so on.

If you have not been following his instructions, I suggest you go back and do so. It should not take you long to read up to the point you are at, but you will have to tell me "what that point is" so I can find it in Rob's instructions.

Rob's instructions have been written multiple times by him and incorporate some years of experience. So they are a logical "guide" to follow.

I suggest you do nothing else, until several of us and you "are on the same line of thinking and know where you are at".

At this momment I was trying to follow Deneb's advice and just got Ubantu booted up from the CD I created.

I would like to have your help and will try to follow your advice.

I have been trying to follow Robs instructions from the online assembly page. Everything was going great until the Hard drive diagnostic test. I downloaded the diagnostic from the WD website, but could not get it to run.

Instead of stopping and asking for advice, I tried to move to the next step and install Windows 7. That is when all of my problems started.

zburns

10-25-2010, 09:58 PM

Using the link I gave you, where are you on the step by step sequential list of instructions? Are you at "Test the Hard Drive"? Did you do every step previous to "where you presently are" and was everything ok up to the "point" or "step" you are presently at? I assume nothing is loaded on the hard drive yet? Am I correct?

Your answer will get me going and I will try to have something for you when you get home from work tomorrow.

Woody

10-25-2010, 10:05 PM

I am not sure I clearly answered your questions in my last post. I am using the online assembly page and following it in the correct vertical order.

I made it through the "Configure Bios Parameter Settings" page before encountering any problems.

The next step "Test the Hard Drive" was not completed because I was unable to get the diagnostic program to start or boot up.

I decided to skip the "Test Hard Drive" step and move on to the next step which was to "Install the Operating Sytem". I have not been able to complete the "Install Operating System" step.

I did try to follow Deneb's recommendations and got as far as booting up Ubuntu from a CD I created. That is when I received your message and I have not proceeded any further.

Woody, lets take a time out on all this!! I will try to help you several ways. I cannot use Deneb's recommendations without reading and studying them first.

What matters to me more is to find out from you if you are following Rob's assembly instructions from his book or from his "online" assembly page. Here is the link to his online assembly page: http://www.mysuperpc.com/build/pc_parts_list.shtml

At the bottom of the page, he gives you in vertical order the steps of the assembly process. I need you to be following this page; this means I can communicate with you thru Rob's instructions, etc., ask questions, and so on.

If you have not been following his instructions, I suggest you go back and do so. It should not take you long to read up to the point you are at, but you will have to tell me "what that point is" so I can find it in Rob's instructions.

Rob's instructions have been written multiple times by him and incorporate some years of experience. So they are a logical "guide" to follow.

I suggest you do nothing else, until several of us and you "are on the same line of thinking and know where you are at".

Woody

10-25-2010, 10:09 PM

Sorry, I did not see this post after I completed my last post.

I am currently on the "Test Hard Drive" step. I did every step previous to the "Test Hard Drive" step and everything appeared to be ok up to that point.

Thanks very much for your help.

Using the link I gave you, where are you on the step by step sequential list of instructions? Are you at "Test the Hard Drive"? Did you do every step previous to "where you presently are" and was everything ok up to the "point" or "step" you are presently at?

Your answer will get me going and I will try to have something for you when you get home from work tomorrow.

zburns

10-25-2010, 11:00 PM

OK, thanks for the info. That gives me a starting point. I am not trying to bypass Deneb. But to communicate with you in such a way that there are no mistakes, we have to use Rob's guide. So lets see how it goes!

Deneb

10-26-2010, 12:05 PM

Did you say that you got ubuntu to boot up and you saw the ubuntu desktop on the monitor?

Deneb

10-26-2010, 12:21 PM

Regarding the Western Digital diagnostics program what you want to do is burn a single ISO file to a blank DVD. This way you will have a bootable diagnostics DVD. Copying files to a DVD blank does you no good. The link below goes to the hard drive product page over at Western Digital. You can click on a particular drive and see the available downloads. What you want is the Data Lifeguard Diagnostics for DOS CD. Download the file Diag504fCD.iso. Then burn an ISO image to a DVD blank. Check that your bias is set to boot the CD-ROM before the hard drive. Then run the extended test from the desk.

“EXTENDED TEST - This option checks your drive thoroughly and it can repair any correctable errors. (Please note: Although this option is safe and does not alter the data on your hard drive, some data loss may occur, depending on the errors found and the errors corrected. Western Digital recommends that you have a current backup of your data).”

This test should check the repair all bad blocks on the hard drive. However, it doesn’t sound like it will reset the MBR ( master boot record) which is what I think is fouled up on your computer from what you describe before.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=606&sid=30&lang=en

zburns

10-26-2010, 03:08 PM

Woody, there is some confusion, to say the least, going on. You have followed Rob's on line assembly pages so far. At the point you should be at, "Test the Hard Drive", (if I am correct) there should be no data that has been downloaded to the hard drive.

You created a CD of Ubuntu from another computer. Your POST, (your second post going backward) states: """I did try to follow Deneb's recommendations and got as far as booting up Ubuntu from a CD I created. That is when I received your message and I have not proceeded any further. """

Did you boot up Ubuntu from the old computer or the new computer. If from the new computer, did you get a live Ubuntu image on the monitor? With the CD containing Ubuntu in your CD drive, did you "save Ubuntu" to your Hard Drive ( I hope not!!)?

Again your hard drive should not have anything on it at this point. At the "Test the Hard Drive" point, you have already gone thru your BIOS settings and saved them to the "BIOS STORAGE CHIP" not the hard drive.

I am changing the subject for a few paras. Rob's assembly instructions are meant to "guide a novice computer builder with no previous experience" thru the building process. Assuming you are a novice, what you are doing is very unfamiliar to you which means you have no way to tell, for example, what instructions are easy or hard to do, or, what instructions, not followed, will cause "hard problems to solve" or cause "easy problems to solve.

Again, Rob's instructions are simple step by step instructions that eventually get you there. Most important, the forum provides you with a number of individuals who "can help you out of a problem" provided you have followed the instructions "to the letter". So Rob's instructions are a communication tool between you and the forum, in addition to being "build" instructions for you.

If you are a novice, you should be following Rob's instructions, period, with no deviation.

Back to your hard drive. I hope you did not save Ubuntu to it. If you did I do not know what to recommend except to wipe it clean and know you wiped it clean.

Going forward. Assuming your hard drive is still clean. I suggest you go back to First Boot again. Disconnect the Hard Drive and CD as if you never hooked them up. Use Rob's instructions, follow them to the letter. Come forward from that point.

You can just go back one step to the BIOS configuration in the last step, go thru all of it once more. But the reason I asked you to go back to First Boot, is that it will not take you much longer to do that. Write down any discrepancy between Rob's instructions and "what you do" at each step of each new level.

Side comment: I called Gigabyte in CA and spoke to a gentlemen I have talked to multiple times. Your mobo is a P55A UD3. Robs instructions are for a P55A UD4P. I asked him about 'differences between BIOS settings' for the two mobos. He felt that they would be very similar or the same, so that is a plus. If any one BIOS setting is different than Rob's on line page, then make a note of it; you have no way to know if the difference is important or not.

From Rob's assembly page, here are the two pertinent paras regards the Hard Drive Tests:

Rob's Instruction: Ok, that's done. In a moment we'll be saving the changes, exiting the BIOS and re-booting the computer. But first, insert the CD containing the Data Lifeguard Diagnostics into the optical drive. The First Boot Device under the Advanced BIOS Features menu should be set to CDROM, so the Data Lifeguard Diagnostics utility will be executed when we get that far if all goes well.

Save all changes and exit the BIOS. This is done with the "F10" key on the Gigabyte P55A-UD4P motherboard. The computer reboots after saving the changes. The computer will boot from the optical drive, starting the Data Lifeguard Diagnostics utility. --End of Rob's Instruction.

Whether you go back to First Boot or just back to the Configure BIOS Settings, just be certain every step makes sense, and make a note if it does not. Going back to First Boot should not take a lot longer.

You do have to burn a CD for the WD Diag Utility.

zburns

10-26-2010, 04:46 PM

Woody, my long post above needs to be left alone, so I am starting a new one, much shorter. Here is a link to the page with the WD Lifeguard Utility data on it. It appears to have the same data that Deneb's post has in it.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=610&sid=30&lang=en

I believe you have to be in DOS language. You do want the ISO file. It has 6 or 7 specific instructions on what to do. You want to do all the tests that Rob says to do; his list of what tests to run was the same 3 years ago when I did mine. With a new drive, the results should be flawless.

Deneb's post refering to "Blocks" is confusing. The Drive may have some addresses on it ( I do not know ), but nothing should have been downloaded to the drive yet, so I do not understand how Deneb can say the drive has problems.

Your previous effort may have failed if you went to this WD page and downloaded the file in ZIP format. Also, your download had to be in DOS language.

My last comment is about your failure to get Win 7 to load. Not sure why it happen, but if you used your product KEY, and then tried to reload Win 7, that may be the problem. When you purchase OEM, you get one "shot" at one computer only. The second time may be interpreted by the software as a second computer.

I would not worry about this since it is explainable to Microsoft. Also, there may be legitimate fixes w/o having to contact Microsoft. If the problem is related to the OEM purchase, worse thing you have to do is call Microsoft. But lets hope it is not.

Summing up: My suggestions are to go back to the first boot and come forward from that point (including disconnecting the hard drive and CD drive). It is essentially a double check and should not take long. When you get into the BIOS settings, what you are looking at is for your UD3 mobo; Robs instruction is written around UD4P but Gbyte says "same or close" . But whatever you are looking at should make sense! Make a note if it does not. By the way you have a manual but it is also available on line. BIOS settings in your mobo BIOS chip could be slightly different than the manual or in Rob's instructions because your mobo BIOS may have been slightly altered relative to the manual or the online version.

As you go thru the BIOS settings, double checking them, you should not find any problems or only a few; I am assuming you did it carefully the first time!!

If you run into a problem, stop at that point and get help from us. You need to be correct from Step One to the very last step.

Woody

10-26-2010, 06:59 PM

Thanks for the information.

I did not load Ubuntu to my hard drive, but I did get the Ubuntu desktop up on my screen from the test CD I created. As far as I know nothing has been loaded on the hard drive, except if my Windows 7 attempted install loaded something.

I will start back at the "First Boot Step" as suggested.

I do have one question before I proceed. I noticed that my RAM is 1.65 volts and I think the RAM that Rob is using is 1.50 volts. Do I need to change the volt setting for my RAM to 1.65 volts in the bios. If so, can you tell me how to do that.

Thanks again for the help.

Woody

10-26-2010, 08:44 PM

I started back at the "First Boot" step and proceeded through each step up to the "Test Hard Drive" step.

When I tried to reboot after installing the CD for testing the hard drive nothing happened. I hit reset and the Diagnostic program appeared to be starting. It took about two to three minutes and then I received the following message: "No Drive Found - Error Status Code 0120". I tried rebooting and got the same error message.

Following are some differences I noticed in the "Configure the Bios Paramter Settings" step.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the hard drive I do not have the "Extended IDE Drive" option, but have "IDE Channel Master" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the DVD drive I do not have the "PIO Mode" or "UDMA Mode" or "Primary IDE Master/Slave" options, but have "IDE Channel Master" and "Access Mode" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Integrated Peripherals" I do not have "Onboard H/W 1394", "Onboard E Sata Controller, or "E Stata Control Mode"

zburns

10-26-2010, 10:18 PM

Hi Woody, I have been trying to send a post to you since around 7:30 pm. This is the first time that the site has had anything that approaches a decent responce time. I have consistently had "timing out" of everything, everytime I click. What ever it is may be over and things ok, but I will send this so you know what has happened.

IDE Channel Master sounds like lingo for all the drives. Maybe you are not going to a sub menu. Your CD drive and hard drive should be recognized under a master heading.

At any rate, it is too late to figure it out tonight. I will take your data. I can get your manual on line and I can also call Gigabyte in CA during the day tomorrow.

Woody

10-26-2010, 11:10 PM

I checked Western Digitals website for the 0120 error code and it said "An unknown error has occurred during testing. This may be an anomaly. Check connections and retest. If the error repeats, replace the drive". I did check the connections and repeat and got the same error message.

Does that mean my hard drive is defective and I should return it or is it possible that I have set something up wrong in the bios settings?

zburns

10-27-2010, 10:42 AM

Hi Woody, Too early to make a call on the hard drive!! Your bios settings on the hardware need to be sorted out. I am going to check the user manual for your mobo and hopefully be able to gain some insight into the "correct nomenclature" you should be looking for. You have to make a "definite selection" as to which drive is "first" in your boot order (ie what drive does the BIOS direct the OS to go to for "booting up".

Hopefully, the user manual or a call to tech support at Gbyte will let me know "how the main menu and sub menu nomenclature reads".

This is your first build. It is a "process" of "one step at a time"; you have to definitely "know" that you have the process right, and, double or triple check the assembly and start up process to know its right. Changing out the hard drive is your absolute last step -- you are not at that point yet.

zburns

10-27-2010, 03:26 PM

Woody, there is still a problem getting to this point on the "my super pc" site, and therefore, a problem doing a post and transmitting it. I will still do one more post today when the "site" works as it should (as in right now, it is working) -- already had this morning the same problems I had last nite getting on, etc.

Here are two links, the first being the URL address for the pdf file on the Gigabyte manual for your mobo: http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-p55a-ud3_v2.0_e.pdf

The second URL address is the gigabyte webpage for your mobo, from which I downloaded your manual. Here is that link: http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3439&dl=1#manual

Again, the first link is the "manual itself". The second link is the Gigabyte page for your P55A UD3 mobo.

Please follow these instructions:

Download the following pages from the manual: pages 46, 47 & 48. Read them several times, study them, etc.. If the BIOS screens do not agree exactly with your screens, they should be close enough. Wait until my next post before you do anything with this data.

VERY IMPORTANT: At whatever point you go back into your BIOS, please document the time and where in the BIOS you went, and what you did, if anything!!!

When you go into your BIOS, you "open up Pandora's box of surprises". You will be inside the circulatory system of your computer. One wrong move meaning any "entry" that you make and do not remember may or may not cause you real grief from that moment on.

I will send you a later post today that will suggest the steps to take to wrap this up and it will be based on the "downloaded manual for your mobo" , in particular pages 46-48, but maybe some more.

If you do not here from me it will be because I am having trouble with the site doing a post and/or sending it. For example, last nite, I could do nothing until after 11pm last nite, then things went fast.

About an hour ago, I went some six miles away and used a library computer and had the same problem with the site that I had on this home computer. Later!!

Deneb

10-27-2010, 04:02 PM

Woody,

“I did not load Ubuntu to my hard drive, but I did get the Ubuntu desktop up on my screen from the test CD I created. As far as I know nothing has been loaded on the hard drive, except if my Windows 7 attempted install loaded something.”

The fact that you see the Ubuntu screen indicates to me that the DVD drive is fine.

“I checked Western Digitals website for the 0120 error code and it said "An unknown error has occurred during testing. This may be an anomaly. Check connections and retest. If the error repeats, replace the drive". I did check the connections and repeat and got the same error message.

Does that mean my hard drive is defective and I should return it or is it possible that I have set something up wrong in the bios settings?”

No Drive Found - Error Status Code 0120

120
Unknown Error An unknown error has occurred during testing. This may be an anomaly. Check connections and retest. If the error repeats, replace the drive. Re-Test Drive

http://support.wdc.com/techinfo/general/errorcodes.asp#v10

It is possible that the hard drive is bad. However, because the original Windows 7 installation process did start, I believe it is possible that Windows 7 messed up the MBR ( Master Boot Record). As I said before the other possibility is you have a bad block somewhere towards the front of the hard drive.

“I do have one question before I proceed. I noticed that my RAM is 1.65 volts and I think the RAM that Rob is using is 1.50 volts. Do I need to change the volt setting for my RAM to 1.65 volts in the bios. If so, can you tell me how to do that.”

“Following are some differences I noticed in the "Configure the Bios Paramter Settings" step.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the hard drive I do not have the "Extended IDE Drive" option, but have "IDE Channel Master" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the DVD drive I do not have the "PIO Mode" or "UDMA Mode" or "Primary IDE Master/Slave" options, but have "IDE Channel Master" and "Access Mode" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Integrated Peripherals" I do not have "Onboard H/W 1394", "Onboard E Sata Controller, or "E Stata Control Mode"”

I recommend that you unplug and plug back in the SATA cable going from the motherboard to the hard drive. Also, although I don’t think it matters, I prefer to have SATA2_0 going to the hard drive and SATA2_1 going to the DVD drive. For the BIOS settings I recommend that you use the option for ”Load Fail-Safe Defaults” Page 58. The default values for the RAM voltage should be fine. However, you can check with your RAM manufacturer and see what the voltage should be for your specific RAM. If the default settings are not what the manufacturer recommends, you can change the voltage manually. I wouldn’t mess with any other BIOS settings where you’re trying to diagnose the missing OS issue.

Other things you can try are as follows in no particular order:

One: try using a different SATA cable.

Two: Clear the CMOS by unplugging the motherboard and removing the motherboard battery for 2 to 30 minutes. Page 111

Three: boot the ubuntu disc again and start the petition manager. Just running the partition manager won’t do anything to the drive. It’ll either boot up to a graphical representation of the drive or you will get some kind of error message if the drive is not accessible.

Four: Follow the steps I listed before with ubuntu and Windows XP, if you have a Windows XP OS disk.

Five: if you have another hard drive handy you might want to see if you can load an OS on that one. If that works it should indicate that the motherboard in the BIOS settings are fine. If you use the Windows 7 disc, make sure that you are not connected to the Internet.

If you ordered the hard drive from new egg you can call them and just get an RMA number and send the drive back. If you tell them it’s bad they won’t charge a restocking fee and you just have to pay for shipping. Then you can order another drive.

Deneb

10-27-2010, 04:55 PM

Zburns

“Did you boot up Ubuntu from the old computer or the new computer. If from the new computer, did you get a live Ubuntu image on the monitor? With the CD containing Ubuntu in your CD drive, did you "save Ubuntu" to your Hard Drive ( I hope not!!)?”

When you boot from a Ubuntu OS install disk you are presented with two options. Try Ubuntu or Install Ubuntu. As long as you select try Ubuntu you have no worries regarding putting data on the hard drive.

“Again your hard drive should not have anything on it at this point. At the "Test the Hard Drive" point, you have already gone thru your BIOS settings and saved them to the "BIOS STORAGE CHIP" not the hard drive.”

The hard drive may have data on it because the Windows 7 OS install disk was run. Windows 7 may have made changes to the MBR ( Master Boot Record) or the partition structure of the disc. The Windows 7 OS install disk may have also partly completed the installation of Windows 7 on the hard drive.

“Back to your hard drive. I hope you did not save Ubuntu to it. If you did I do not know what to recommend except to wipe it clean and know you wiped it clean.”

“Deneb's post refering to "Blocks" is confusing. The Drive may have some addresses on it ( I do not know ), but nothing should have been downloaded to the drive yet, so I do not understand how Deneb can say the drive has problems.”

Any Ubuntu OS install disk is less destructive than a Windows OS install disk. When you try Ubuntu you do not make any changes to the hard drive. However, if you run the partition manager utility you can of course make changes. It’s just neat that a free Ubuntu disc doubles as a partition manager which normally cost $50 or more.

On the other hand, a Windows OS install disk generally can be very destructive to your drive. It does a lot of things in the background automatically. This would include setting up the MBR. This is why I recommended using the Windows XP disk a while back without going into the details of what it would do.

For example I tested a Windows XP disc without any service packs slipstreamed into it on a drive bigger and 128 GB. It blew the master boot record right out of the water and made the computer unbootable. Of course it was easy to fix by running the FDISK /MBR command from a DOS 6.22 utility floppy disk. The Windows 7 OS install disk has the ability to repair a hard drive. I do not know the exact procedures myself. From what I have seen online the procedures look cumbersome and tedious.

When a Windows OS install fails partway through there is a risk that the MBR has been corrupted. There is also a risk on any new hard drive, or a hard drive that has been in use for some time, that a block is bad. A bad block is also known as the bad sector. This is why I recommend running a utility or procedure to doublecheck all the blocks and mark any bad blocks is bad.

Bad sector

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bad_sectors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bad_sectors)

CHKDSK /f /r

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CHKDS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CHKDS)K

How to repair MBR on Windows 7

http://www.ehow.com/how_4836283_repair-mbr-windows.html

zburns

10-27-2010, 05:45 PM

Woody, I do not know what Deneb is telling you to do, but I do not think it is in the sequential order of Rob's book.

Right below is what you said in an earlier post:

Following are some differences I noticed in the "Configure the Bios Paramter Settings" step.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the hard drive I do not have the "Extended IDE Drive" option, but have "IDE Channel Master" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the DVD drive I do not have the "PIO Mode" or "UDMA Mode" or "Primary IDE Master/Slave" options, but have "IDE Channel Master" and "Access Mode" which I set to Auto.

--------------------------------------

My question is as follows: According to you, you have been in the two "Standard CMOS" settings and set both of them to Auto.

Now my question is AND IT IS IMPORTANT did you do anything in the "Advanced BIOS Features" window. It is in this window that you set the boot order. If you have done anything in the Advanced BIOS Features window, please tell me what you selected, etc. If you did not do anything, do not do it yet.

I suggest you go back and read Rob's instruction on "Advanced BIOS Features". The first step is the one I am referring too. Did you or have you done anything here at all. You do have to make some entries in the "Advanced BIOS Features" . This page is part of the assembly page after Standard BIOS Features.

It takes a "combination" key stroke (two keys) to get into the "Advanced BIOS Features" . All I want to know is if you have been into this part of the BIOS -- if you have not, it may be the cause of your problem. Lets agree on the settings to make before you actually do it, (if you have not been into the section previously).

Woody

10-27-2010, 05:57 PM

I did make changes in the Advanced Bios Features Window. I followed all of the recommendations in Rob's online assembly instructions. So I have set everything the same as shown in the assembly instructions.

Woody, I do not know what Deneb is telling you to do, but I do not think it is in the sequential order of Rob's book.

Right below is what you said in an earlier post:

Following are some differences I noticed in the "Configure the Bios Paramter Settings" step.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the hard drive I do not have the "Extended IDE Drive" option, but have "IDE Channel Master" which I set to Auto.

Under the "Standard CMOS" for the DVD drive I do not have the "PIO Mode" or "UDMA Mode" or "Primary IDE Master/Slave" options, but have "IDE Channel Master" and "Access Mode" which I set to Auto.

--------------------------------------

My question is as follows: According to you, you have been in the two "Standard CMOS" settings and set both of them to Auto.

Now my question is AND IT IS IMPORTANT did you do anything in the "Advanced BIOS Features" window. It is in this window that you set the boot order. If you have done anything in the Advanced BIOS Features window, please tell me what you selected, etc. If you did not do anything, do not do it yet.

I suggest you go back and read Rob's instruction on "Advanced BIOS Features". The first step is the one I am referring too. Did you or have you done anything here at all. You do have to make some entries in the "Advanced BIOS Features" . This page is part of the assembly page after Standard BIOS Features.

It takes a "combination" key stroke (two keys) to get into the "Advanced BIOS Features" . All I want to know is if you have been into this part of the BIOS -- if you have not, it may be the cause of your problem. Lets agree on the settings to make before you actually do it, (if you have not been into the section previously).

RickyTick

10-27-2010, 06:04 PM

I do have one question before I proceed. I noticed that my RAM is 1.65 volts and I think the RAM that Rob is using is 1.50 volts. Do I need to change the volt setting for my RAM to 1.65 volts in the bios. If so, can you tell me how to do that.

Your motherboard defaults to 1.5 volts for the ram. If the ram you're using requires 1.65 volts, then you need to change this in the BIOS. This can cause boot problems if this isn't set correctly.

zburns

10-27-2010, 06:05 PM

Woody, I do not know whether or not you have been into and done anything in the ADVANCED BIOS FEATURES. Also, from the manual I downloaded, I read that you must choose to go into Advanced Bios Features by keying as follows: <Ctrl>+<F1>. I assume this means to press both keys at the same time.

So you have either been in this section or not. Let me know which it is, please!

Woody

10-27-2010, 06:18 PM

RickyTick

Can you tell me how to make that change?

ZD Burns

I have copied the section of the "Advanced Bios Features" from the assembly instructions as follows:

Advanced BIOS Features
Hard Disk Boot Priority
Specifies in what order the computer try hard drive type devices in order to boot. Many computers, like My Super PC, typically have just the one hard drive actively available.

Quick Boot Enabled
Skip Power On Self-Tests (POST) for faster boot.

First Boot Device
Second Boot Device
Third Boot Device
Specifies in what order the computer try devices in order to boot. Normally I have the first boot device set to the Hard Disk and the others don't matter, they may be set to Disabled or also set to Hard Disk. At times it's necessary to boot from a CD or DVD, so in that case the first boot device gets set to CDROM.

Password Check Setup
Values are Setup and System.

HDD S.M.A.R.T. Capability Disabled
It's no use having it set to Enabled unless you're also running software that monitors the S.M.A.R.T. status, and who does? Setting to Disabled will give best performance.

Limit CPUID Max. to 3 Disabled
Should be set to Disabled for modern operating systems, including Windows XP, Windows Vista, and Windows 7.

No-Execute Memory Protect Enabled
Provides protection by controlling whether or not the processor is allowed to execute instructions that reside in data areas. Should always be set to Enabled to activate the protection.

Delay For HDD (Secs) 0
Certain hard disk drives require some extra time to spin up in a cold boot. If the system does not start after the memory test, try adding time in this field.

Full Screen LOGO Show Disabled
Splash screen.

Backup BIOS Image to HDD Disabled
Allows a backup copy of the BIOS to be made to the hard drive.

Init Display First PEG
Usually this is set to PEG to indicate the video card in the PCI Express x16 slot is being used for the monitor. Other values are PEG2 if the PCI Express x8 slot contains the video card, or PCI for a video card in a PCI slot.

I have followed the recommendations listed above and made the necessary changes. I did not have to enter to similtaneous keystokes to enter the advacnce bios features. All I had to due was arrow down to it and then press enter.

RickyTick

10-27-2010, 06:38 PM

This is a 2 minute video on making some overclocking changes with the P55 UD3.
You'll notice at 0:45 into the video, he goes into Advanced Voltage Settings. He's changing the voltage on his cpu, but you can also see where you can change DRAM Voltage. Go there and set it to 1.65V. Hope that helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iYAmHliwqc

I wish someone would comment on my post in "Everything Else". :)

Woody

10-27-2010, 06:54 PM

Thanks RickyTick

I looked at your post in "Everthing Else". I wish I had the knowledge to help you, but as you can see from my posts, I think I am the last person you would want to take advice from.

This is a 2 minute video on making some overclocking changes with the P55 UD3.
You'll notice at 0:45 into the video, he goes into Advanced Voltage Settings. He's changing the voltage on his cpu, but you can also see where you can change DRAM Voltage. Go there and set it to 1.65V. Hope that helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iYAmHliwqc

I wish someone would comment on my post in "Everything Else". :)

zburns

10-27-2010, 07:10 PM

Woody, Sorry, I was not being clear. In your earlier posts, you only mentioned "Standard BIOS Settings". So I was asking about "Advanced BIOS Features" to see when you actually went into that section.

I am looking for a "bios setting" that may be the cause of the problem. The question is: What is presently entered for First Boot, Second Boot and Third Boot in Advanced BIOS Features. Are these the same entries today as they were before you tried the Win 7 install?

(Woody, Suggest you do not feel bad about any of this. I knew "squat" on my first build, but I have stayed with the forums, read them, participated as best I can and have learned a lot -- not enough --but fair!! So stick with it. By the way, all I am trying to do is "pin" down the source of the problem. So far so good, and the fact that you could get an image on Ubuntu is good.)

Woody

10-27-2010, 07:41 PM

No need to apologize, I am really grateful to have your help.

First Boot Device - CDROM
Second Boot Device - CDROM
Third Boot Device - Floppy

I believe I had the First Boot Device set to hard drive when I first tried my first install.

However, when I tried to run the WD Diagnostic last night I know I had the First Boot Device set to CDROM.

On a different note relating to RickyTick post. I was doing a google search and came across some information about a person having trouble with their Windows 7 installation on a new computer. The problem was resolved and turned out to be the RAM voltage was set to 1.5 and not 1.65.

Do you think I should go ahead and try to set my RAM voltage to 1.65?

Woody, Sorry, I was not being clear. In your earlier posts, you only mentioned "Standard BIOS Settings". So I was asking about "Advanced BIOS Features" to see when you actually went into that section.

I am looking for a "bios setting" that may be the cause of the problem. The question is: What is presently entered for First Boot, Second Boot and Third Boot in Advanced BIOS Features. Are these the same entries today as they were before you tried the Win 7 install?

(Woody, Suggest you do not feel bad about any of this. I knew "squat" on my first build, but I have stayed with the forums, read them, participated as best I can and have learned a lot -- not enough --but fair!! So stick with it. By the way, all I am trying to do is "pin" down the source of the problem. So far so good, and the fact that you could get an image on Ubuntu is good.)

zburns

10-27-2010, 08:23 PM

Woody, I want to check some things before I say I am certain of the following:
1. Your install of Win 7 is from a CD.
2. Your first boot has to be from a CDROM. You save the Win 7 to the hard drive in partitions. Therefore, first boot device should be CDROM and the second boot device should be the hard drive.
3. Floppy drive does not enter into the picture right now (unless you are using it for something we are talking about)

Regards the WD Data Lifeguard Disc, when you go to the WD site, you have a choice of language and that is DOS. The only choices of files are ISO and ZIP (and I know it is not supposed to be a zip file).

Need a little time to think about the above. Back to you in less than an hour.

zburns

10-27-2010, 09:52 PM

Woody, I need to wait until tomorrow to go any further. But give me the WD part # of your hard drive so I can double check the WD page for the download.

Also, please tell me the Sata Plug number on the mobo that the hard drive is plugged into.

Here is what I think, but I will want to confirm it tomorrow. If your hard drive was the first boot device on the Win 7 first install, then you did not boot. The Win 7 disc is what you boot from and then save to the hard drive, so the CDROM (Win7) was not recognized; the good thing is that you did not use the product key and therefore no problem due to the OEM purchase.

So I think your boot order is CDROM for First Boot, Hard Drive for Second Boot. After you load Win 7, you switch that around to Hard Drive - First Boot, CDROM - Second Boot, and floppy third.

I am assuming you have no real problem. If you went back to the first boot and came forward and did not find any problem, things should be ok, and you are better off for having done the recheck!

Woody

10-27-2010, 10:59 PM

The WD Part No. is WD50000AAKSSP

The hard drive is plugged into Sata2_0

Just a couple of questions so that I can hopefully learn from this process.

What about the WD Diagnostics test? Do you still think that I have something setup wrong that is causing the error message when I try to run the diagnostics test?

I was also wondering about your thoughts on changing the RAM voltage in the bios. I know you are trying to go through each step in the correct order, but I want to make sure we are not overlooking the RAM voltage. I believe Deneb indicated that it should be alright to leave the RAM voltage at the default setting, but RickyTick indicated it could cause boot problems.

Thanks again for your help.

Woody, I need to wait until tomorrow to go any further. But give me the WD part # of your hard drive so I can double check the WD page for the download.

Also, please tell me the Sata Plug number on the mobo that the hard drive is plugged into.

Here is what I think, but I will want to confirm it tomorrow. If your hard drive was the first boot device on the Win 7 first install, then you did not boot. The Win 7 disc is what you boot from and then save to the hard drive, so the CDROM (Win7) was not recognized; the good thing is that you did not use the product key and therefore no problem due to the OEM purchase.

So I think your boot order is CDROM for First Boot, Hard Drive for Second Boot. After you load Win 7, you switch that around to Hard Drive - First Boot, CDROM - Second Boot, and floppy third.

I am assuming you have no real problem. If you went back to the first boot and came forward and did not find any problem, things should be ok, and you are better off for having done the recheck!

RickyTick

10-28-2010, 07:37 AM

I believe Deneb indicated that it should be alright to leave the RAM voltage at the default setting, but RickyTick indicated it could cause boot problems.

It can cause boot issues as well as stability issues, but if your boot sequence in out of order, that needs to be addressed as well. In fact, you could set the ram voltage at the same time that you're in there setting the boot sequence.

Woody

10-28-2010, 08:31 AM

RickyTick,

I went into the bios and found where to change the RAM voltage setting, but there is not an option for 1.65 volts. The closest options are 1.64 volts and 1.66 volts. Would either of those be "close enough" or should it be set at exactly 1.65 volts?

Also, what are your opinions on using the 1.65 volt memmory. Would I just be better off purchasing 1.50 volt memmory?

Thanks

It can cause boot issues as well as stability issues, but if your boot sequence in out of order, that needs to be addressed as well. In fact, you could set the ram voltage at the same time that you're in there setting the boot sequence.

RickyTick

10-28-2010, 09:16 AM

Either of those settings should be fine. I would set it to 1.66v and be done.
Did you set the boot sequence too?

Woody

10-28-2010, 09:23 AM

I have not set the boot sequence yet. I was waiting for zburns to confirm the correct order. He said he thinks it should be First Boot Device - CDROM, Second Boot Device - Hard Drive. Then once the operating system is loaded it would be switched to First Boot Device - Hard Drive, Second Boot Device - CDROM. He wanted to double check to make sure that was correct.

Either of those settings should be fine. I would set it to 1.66v and be done.
Did you set the boot sequence too?

Deneb

10-28-2010, 12:34 PM

The answer is to set the RAM to 1.64 volts. Most DDR3 RAM these days is 1.65 V. Intel wants you to NOT run the RAM voltage above 1.64 volts. Running at 1.50 V won’t hurt any hardware but it might cause the RAM to be unstable. Having the RAM set to a voltage above 1.65 V could hurt the CPU. RAM voltage needs to be higher to get your RAM to work faster with faster memory timings. The lower the timing numbers are, the faster the RAM runs. For example I just purchased some Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2 x 2GB) X2 = 8 GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333. It is supposed to run at 7-7-7-24 1.65V. I read somewhere that it’s backup timing settings are 9-9-9-25 which I assume would probably work fine with 1.5 V.

“According to Intel CPU spec, DIMMs with voltage setting over 1.65V may damage the CPU permanently. We recommend you install the DIMMs with the voltage settings below 1.65V.” According to Iain Bristow, spokesman for Asus, “the sticker had been placed on the motherboard after Intel’s recommendation.”

Memory controllers inside the Core i7 processors support DDR3 memory. JEDEC specifies a standard voltage of 1.5V for that memory type, so this 1.65V limit would leave little leeway for over voltage within specification. This will sure cause enthusiasts to scrutinize over which modules they purchase more carefully. Currently, many enthusiast models go far outside the JEDEC standard of 1.5, coming in around 1.9V to reach rated specification.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/int...tage,6464.html (http://www.tomshardware.com/news/int...tage,6464.html)

Woody

10-28-2010, 02:19 PM

Deneb,

Thanks very much for the information. That is very helpful.

The anser is to set the RAM to 1.64 volts. Most DDR three RAM these days is 1.65 V. Intel wants you to not run the RAM voltage above 1.64 volts. Running at 1.50 V won’t hurt any hardware but it might cause the RAM to be unstable. Having the RAM set to a voltage above 1.65 V could hurt the CPU. RAM voltage needs to be higher to you RAM to work faster with faster memory timings. The lower the timing numbers are, the faster the RAM runs. For example I just purchased some Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2 x 2GB) X2 = 8 GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333. Is supposed to run at 7-7-7-24 1.65V. I read somewhere that it’s backup timing settings are 9-9-9-25 which I assume would probably work fine with 1.5 V.

“According to Intel CPU spec, DIMMs with voltage setting over 1.65V may damage the CPU permanently. We recommend you install the DIMMs with the voltage settings below 1.65V.” According to Iain Bristow, spokesman for Asus, “the sticker had been placed on the motherboard after Intel’s recommendation.”

Memory controllers inside the Core i7 processors support DDR3 memory. JEDEC specifies a standard voltage of 1.5V for that memory type, so this 1.65V limit would leave little leeway for over voltage within specification. This will sure cause enthusiasts to scrutinize over which modules they purchase more carefully. Currently, many enthusiast models go far outside the JEDEC standard of 1.5, coming in around 1.9V to reach rated specification.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-i7nehalem-memory-voltage,6464.html

zburns

10-28-2010, 05:11 PM

Hi Woody, Once again problems even "loggin into this site" from about 11 am to 4 pm. I did find my answers by calling Gigabyte and I will do a later post to explain to you what I was doing.

To make sure we are on the same page, you are ready to once again run the
WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic Tools test. You have a "quick" test to run and a longer, apx 46 minutes test after that.

In looking at the Western Digital site for some time today (to me it is a difficult site to work with), I found a statement to the effect that "after October 2009, WD will no longer support their Data Lifeguard Diagnostic software" because they have turned this utility over to Acronis (sp), a company I assume they have purchased or affiliated with.

Nevertheless, the WD site still has the download site for WD Data Lifeguard Diagnostic Tools so I assume it is safe to use it (they would have taken it down otherwise).

Here is the link to the WD download page. Again, make sure you download the DOS version in the ISO file format. This is the file name you will download (I took it from the site): Diag504fCD.iso All this should be very clear on the page the link takes you to.

Here is the link: http://support.wdc.com/product/download.asp?groupid=9999&sid=30&lang=en

To change the boot order, you do it in the Advanced BIOS Features

Your boot order has to be CDROM for First Boot Device and Hard Drive for Second Boot Device. Leave third boot as none or Disabled (whatever it says). The floppy is not being used so just ignore it right now.

Burn a new CD for the down load and proceed to run the test.

I Assume the test will run fine, about 20 min for the short test and 45 min for the longer test. Also, there is "write to zeros test" that will clear the data from the drive (not sure if that is in your download or not, but I will look as soon as I post all this).

Once the Data Lifeguard Test is done, you are ready to load Win 7. Your boot order remains the same. But here is another wrinkly that may slow you down.

When I ran Vista, I was instructed from the disk to partition the hard drive in the download process; that took me by suprise. I simply allowed a large figure for the Vista OS and left a larger second partition for everything else. My point is you need to plan in advance what partitions you want and how large they should be to "fill up" the hard drive.

I also suggest you read Rob's page(s) on Loading the OS (Win 7) which follow right after the assembly page you have been looking at.

Since your boot order to load the OS is still from the CDROM, the Computer is ready to go. The win 7 instructions will prompt you all the way thru the process. Actually, when I loaded Vista, I had to do a few things initially, and then the software took over and essentially left me out of it; it is a very real memory (pleasant one too).

Again read Rob's page on loading the OS.

Woody

10-28-2010, 05:56 PM

Hi zburns, Thanks for all our help on this.

The first boot drive is set to CDROM, the second boot drive is set to Hard Drive. I saved the settings and exited bios.

I have a copy of the WD Diagnostics disc which starts to run when I reboot the computer, but after about two minutes of nothing happening I get the message "No Drive Found - Error Status Code 0120"

zburns

10-28-2010, 06:34 PM

Go into your BIOS and look at Standard CMOS Features. That vertical list of IDE Channel 0 Master, IDE Channel 0 Slave, and so on should be showing CDROM on one Master Channel X and Hard Drive on another Master Channel Y.

According to Gigabyte in Calif. the CPU assigns the different SATA devices and IDE devices (you have no IDE devices) to a particular Master Channel. (I cannot comment on the Slave -- do not know, cannot visualize it).

Point is what does the vertical column where the (None)s are show. The CDROM and the Hard Drive should show up in at least two places in that (None) vertical column in lieu of two of the (NONE)S.

zburns

10-28-2010, 07:09 PM

Woody, on your mobo, you have 6 sata connectors numbered 0 thru 5 in the manual; they are each, 3 gigabyte speed connections.

You also have 2 sata connectors that are 6 gigabyte speed and they are grouped together but at a different location on the mobo.

The Sata cables from both the CDROM and the Hard Drive should each be plugged into one of the group of 6 (3 gig speed) connectors. It does not matter which "numbered" connector either is plugged into.

Woody

10-28-2010, 07:37 PM

zburns, this is really wierd but every IDE channel has none selected. This is the second time this has happened.

Hopefully, I can clearly explain the situation. As I followed Rob's on-line assembly instructions, both the Hard Drive and DVD showed up in one of the IDE channels. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, when I went back into the bios after the failed Windows 7 install every IDE channel had "none" selected and the hard drive and DVD were not shown. You had me go back to the "First Boot" step and as I went through the instructions the Hard Drive and DVD were showing in the IDE Channels.

I just ran the WD Diagnositics program per your instructions and now when I go back to check the IDE Channels, all of the Channels show "none". The Hard Drive and the DVD are not shown.

Currently the Hard Drive is connected to SATA2_0 on the motherboard and the DVD is connected to SATA2_1

Woody

10-28-2010, 07:39 PM

Just to be clear, the SATA connectors are connected to the group of 6 (3gig speed) connectors. The hard drive is connected to SATA2_0 and the DVD is connected to SATA2_1.

Woody, on your mobo, you have 6 sata connectors numbered 0 thru 5 in the manual; they are each, 3 gigabyte speed connections.

You also have 2 sata connectors that are 6 gigabyte speed and they are grouped together but at a different location on the mobo.

The Sata cables from both the CDROM and the Hard Drive should each be plugged into one of the group of 6 (3 gig speed) connectors. It does not matter which "numbered" connector either is plugged into.

zburns

10-28-2010, 07:47 PM

You mentioned they both showed up in "one" of the channels. What did you do, move both of them or just one of them.

I suggest you move them both to different Sata connectors; move one to Sata 3 and the other to Sata 5. (stay in the 3 gig speed group of 6).

Each time you unplug one or move one, you have to turn the machine off and back on. You might could just reboot. I would turn the computer off for 5 minutes then back on.

Also, I hope you burned a new CD for the WD Lifeguard Diag. Easy to do, I assume; nothing wrong with doing it; just a precaution.

zburns

10-28-2010, 07:54 PM

Did you have any problem or anything weird happen while changing the RAM voltage today. Since you are going in and out of the BIOS why not recheck the value -- do not do anything except look at it. Just see if it is where you left it.

Instead of another post, I will just add this right here. In the BIOS under Hardware or whatever heading shows the CPU temp, find it and let me know what the CPU temp. Write it down. It should stay about the same, You are not doing anything to make it change much. Check it from time to time.

It is a bad idea to run around doing a lot of different things. What I have told you so far is probably all you should do. Whatever you do, you should do it for a specific reason.

One other thing you can do with the power shut off (By the way, as you are sticking your hand inside the case, I hope you are using a static control wrist strap and you should unplug the power cord from the back of the case each time you go into the case -- very important for safety from elec shock, for static protection of the components, etc.

Woody

10-28-2010, 08:01 PM

I tried switching the connections to Sata 3 and Sata 5 as you suggested, but that did not help. The hard drive and the dvd do not show up and all of the Channels show "None"

I did not mean that both the Hard Drive and the DVD showed up in one channel, they were each showing up in a separate channnel.

Also, I did not burn a new CD for the WD Diagnostic. I used the same one that I had created from yesterday.

Woody

10-28-2010, 08:13 PM

I received you response in my e-mail before it showed up on the board, so I hope this will not be wierd answering your question before it shows up on the board.

Anyway, I did not experience any problems when resetting the RAM voltage. It is still set at 1.64 volts which is where I set it.

I did notice something during the boot-up of the machine that I thought I should mention. As it goes through the messages when I first turn the power button on and before I can get into the bios, I noticed the memmory speed was listed at 1333 mhz. The RAM I purchased is supposed to be 1600 mhz.

zburns

10-28-2010, 08:13 PM

Did the voltage change on the RAM go ok without a hitch. You might check the values in the BIOS to see that they are the same.

Everything you do, you should write down in case you want to backtrack!

When you go into the case, you should unplug the power cord from the case and all cables to other periperials such as printer and monitor. When you put a hand inside the case you need to use the wrist strap for static control.

Check the temp of the CPU in the BIOS under a heading for Hardware -- should be easy to find in the Gbyte Manual.

Woody

10-28-2010, 08:27 PM

CPU temperature is 41 degrees C

Did the voltage change on the RAM go ok without a hitch. You might check the values in the BIOS to see that they are the same.

Everything you do, you should write down in case you want to backtrack!

When you go into the case, you should unplug the power cord from the case and all cables to other periperials such as printer and monitor. When you put a hand inside the case you need to use the wrist strap for static control.

Check the temp of the CPU in the BIOS under a heading for Hardware -- should be easy to find in the Gbyte Manual.

zburns

10-28-2010, 09:17 PM

This is my last post for tonight. Maybe some others who see this tonight or in the morning will have some ideas. One of us can call Gigabyte tomorrow at noon in CA .

Keep looking at the CPU temp. 41 degrees is fine. As long as the computer is not in "heavy use", the temp should stay apx the same, so look at it from time to time.

Send me anything you want to tonight or tomorrow morning. We need to think about it. A simple solution could be some "simple omission" in the BIOS -- have no idea what it could be. But a lot of times, the solutions are simple.

I saw your comment about the RAM freq. That is odd. The other odd thing about the Std BIOS Features showing all None, it is like a simple wire or circuit board trace is broken.

zburns

10-28-2010, 09:28 PM

Did you happen to see the frequency of the RAM before you changed the voltage?

Woody

10-28-2010, 09:44 PM

I did not notice the RAM frequency before I changed the RAM voltage.

Not sure that this is relevant or not, but I think when you had me go back to the "First Boot" step in Rob's online instructions, by removing the CMOS battery, the bios was reset and that is why the hard drive and DVD drive showed up again. I suspect if I remove the battery again and I start over I can get the hard drive and DVD to show up again. Should I do that?

RickyTick

10-28-2010, 09:50 PM

I saw your comment about the RAM freq. That is odd.

Probably not. I think the default ram frequency is 1333. It may require an overclock to get the ram to 1600, although that is a very slight increase.

Saw this, it might be relevant. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/264144-30-help-needed-gigabyte

zburns

10-29-2010, 04:50 AM

Woody, I am doing this post at 5:20am because I have been unable to post in the mid morning due to site delays. Last nite in all the "helter skelter", I missed the obvious and that was to ask you to go back to Advanced BIOS Features and see if the Boot Order was the same as you set it to be, as in CDROM, then Hard Drive. As you know when you do this, you have to (I assume) press Enter and save your BIOS entries -- point is you have to save them.

Other comments, during this entire process, as you go into the case, you should be very careful to use static control; wrist strap connected to case. Always touch the case before putting your hand inside. Particularly if you are in the USA north or Canada where there has already been snow and ice. Once the cold air settles in, static is far more likely to be prevalent and a problem.

According to my telecon with GByte yesterday, the CPU automatically chooses and asigns the "Channel Master" number -- no way for you to do it. So if the boot order has been there all along --last nite--then one would assume the CPU is not executing properly. If this is the case (boot order definitely correct), yet "NONE" thruout the IDE Channel Master column, then this question should be put to Gigabyte in Calif this morning. There phone number for tech support is 1-626-854-9338. I spoke to "John" yesterday.

On another point, Ricky can probably best answer. We tied up "Build Your OwnPc" a lot of the day and last night. Ricky, should we switch to posting in "Everything Else" just to free up this "top of the column thread space"?

Since your boot order should be set for CDROM first, you could put the Ubuntu CD back in and see if it boots up and you get an image -- this would verifiy "CPU" working.

RickyTick

10-29-2010, 06:32 AM

On another point, Ricky can probably best answer. We tied up "Build Your OwnPc" a lot of the day and last night. Ricky, should we switch to posting in "Everything Else" just to free up this "top of the column thread space"?

Nah, just keep doing what you're doing. You've put a lot of time in effort in this Zburns. Thanks for all your hard work.

zburns

10-29-2010, 02:18 PM

Woody, My suggestions/instructions are paras AA, BB and CC. Please read the entire post several times; follow the logic, ask questions if you need to. Run the tests as long as you are sure you understand the logic. We want the result to be clear, no ambiguities. zburns

Hi Woody, I have talked to Gigabyte three times today, fairly short conversations each time. The last two conversations were to confirm my thoughts on the logic of the situation.

1. When you went thru Rob's first boot up to the second boot and now to the point of running the WD Data Lifeguard test, you never actually ran the CDROM drive or the Hard Drive.

2. You entered into the Advanced BIOS Features, as part of the assembly process the Hard Drive Boot Priority and these "drive" s then automatically appeared in the Standard BIOS Features as a IDE device and listed according to Channel 0 thru 7 in "an order determined by the CPU and the mobo controller.

3. When you tried to run the WD Data Lifeguard utility, it did not work and you skipped over that test, and tried to download Win 7. This did not work but you later indicated that you had the boot priority incorrect, ie. Hard Drive as First Boot; you were not absolutely certain but resonably so.

In the process of running the CD with the WD Data Lguard utility which required the CDROM device and the Hard Drive to run for the first time, there was a fault with one of the two drive devices and/or the mobo cpu controller, CPU or perhaps the SATA cable from the Hard Drive to the mobo SATA plug. (Could also have been the SATA cable from the CDROM device to mobo, but you later, inadvertently proved the Sony CD device to be ok.)

Whatever, the cause of the failure, the boot priority in Advanced BIOS and the automatic entries in Standard IDE devices disappeared. Standard BIOS Features showed (after the actual Data Lifeguard attempted run) no IDE devices installed. And the "Boot priority devices disappeared from Advanced BIOS Features" -- your posts.

You went back to First Boot in Rob's instructions and came forward again, tried to run the WD Data Lifeguard test, all for a second time. This time as before, the IDE devices showed up as None and the Boot Priorities in Adv BIOS had disappeared.

But between the two WD attempted tests above, you downloaded Ubuntu from another computer to a disk. You then place the disk in your new build and were able to boot up Ubuntu and show a image on your monitor. You subsequently removed the Ubuntu disk and tried to run the WD Data Lifeguard test a second time, and, it failed as noted above, including the BIOS removal of recognition of IDE devices and hard drive boot priorities.

In running Ubuntu and getting a monitor image, you proved the CPU, mobo controller, Sony CD device and Sata cable were working.

But the Hard Drive will not run the Data Lifeguard tests, and, hopefully, the problem is the SATA cable from the HD to the mobo.

AA. Do the following: Place the Ubuntu disk into the CD drive, boot it up and get a monitor image -- a process you did execute before. This should be repeatable since you have already done it. Provided you do get a Ubuntu, monitor image, then assume everything including mobo, cpu, CD drive are ok.

BB. Assume the problem must be the HD or the SATA cable from the HD to the mobo (it could be that the connector to the back of the HD is simply not pushed in tight, or the cable could have a broken wire of poor internal connection, etc.). At any rate, replace the HD to mobo SATA cable; make sure both ends are plugged in tight to the respective connectors.

CC. Try rerunning the Data Lifeguard Test. If it runs successfully now, the problem was the cable. If it does not run, assume it is the HD and replace it with a new identical HD from Western Digital.

Do not try to run tests to wipe the HD clean, etc.-- the Datalife Guard Test contains a "Write to Zeros" test for the purpose of cleaning the disk of "data from the lifeguard test". So if you cannot run the Lifeguard Test, you have to swap out the Hard Drive.

The use of the Ubuntu disk to the extent described above should demostrate that CD drive, CPU, mobo, video card are all working. That leaves only HD or its SATA cable as the culprit.

Right now, if you put the Ubuntu disk into the Sony CD device, let it run and boot, you should get on your monitor what you did prior to all this troubleshooting; if you do not then something has changed. If something has changed, the problem areas would still include HD or its Sata cable, but also now a possibility of mobo and/or CPU. Most likely not the CPU.

In order, do paras AA, BB, and CC. Let me know any questions at any time about what I have said above.

Woody

10-29-2010, 05:24 PM

To answer your question from your ealier post, the First Boot Device remained the same and is still CDROM. Also, the Second Boot Device remained the same and is still Hard Disk.

I completed the step in your "AA Paragraph". Ubuntu did boot up and I got a display asking me to enter a password. Since I do not have a password I did not go any further. It did take about two to three minutes to boot up Ubunto from the CD.

I have a question about paragraph BB. Since I do not have any more Sata cables, is it alright to swap the Sata cable I have plugged into to the CDROM with the one plugged into the Hard Drive and leave the CD ROM unconnected while I try to test the hard drive? Otherwise I will have to make a trip to the store tonight or tomorrow morning to proceed with paragraph BB.

Thanks

Woody

10-29-2010, 05:37 PM

zburns,

I wanted to mention something else after reading through your post a few more times. In the Advacned BIOS Features, the first option is Hard Disk Boot Priority. The option in brackets is "[Press Enter]" When I press enter there are two things listed as follows:

1. SCSI-0 : P5-WDC WD5000AAKS-00E4
2. Bootable Add-in Cards

After reading your last post when you brought up the hard disk boot priorty I wasn't sure if you were referring to what I just discussed above, or the "First Boot Device, Second Boot Device, Third Boot Device".

Just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

zburns

10-29-2010, 07:31 PM

Woody, I am only going to answer your first post right now. That is excellent that Ubuntu did boot up and you got a display. That means to me and I discussed it with the Gigabyte tech guy and he agreed that it probably means the mobo controller, the cpu, the video card, the Sony CD device and its sata cable are ok. When you say you got a display; I assume that means a display on a monitor attached to your new computer.

Before you do anything, go into the Standard BIOS Features and confirm that two IDE channels now name the CDROM as one IDE device and the HD as another IDE device. ie. IDE Channel X Master for CDROM and a different one for IDE Channel Y Master for the Hard Drive.

Now to the cable swapping. You need both cables so I suggest you go buy one.

Or you can swap the cables and see if Ubuntu boots as before. This would mean both cables are ok. Finger now points to HD as the bad guy.

If Ubuntu does not boot as before, then the sata cable now on the CD is bad.
At that point you need to buy a cable.

Did you check to see that both plugs on the HD Sata cable are firmly plugged into the Sata HD and the mobo sata connector?

I will send a second post in apx 30 minutes. By the way what time zone are you in?

Woody

10-29-2010, 08:01 PM

zburns,

Yes I did get a display on the monitor attached to my new computer.

After pulling the CMOS battery and going through the "Configure Bios Parameter" step the IDE chanels show the hard drive and the CDROM on two separate channels and both are identified as "master".

I guess my question about leaving the CDROM unconnected was kind of stupid. I did not think that one through. Anyway, I swapped the cables and the CDROM still boots up Ubuntu. I did check to make sure all connections are tight. I ran the WD diagnostics again and got the same error message. So it appears that the hard drive is bad.

I'm in the Pacific Time Zone.

zburns

10-29-2010, 08:23 PM

Woody, I am going to answer your second post in a general manner rather than specific. I can do a better detail job of this answer in the morning; there is just a fair amount of detail that can be part of the answer and I have to pull data from several sources. From what I see most of it is common sense stuff.

First the nomenclature:1. SCSI-0 : P5-WDC WD5000AAKS-00E4
2. Bootable Add-in Cards

I assume by pressing Enter, you see this data but "cannot choose either #1 or # 2 in lieu of each other. Am I correct?

Your statement: After reading your last post when you brought up the hard disk boot priorty I wasn't sure if you were referring to what I just discussed above, or the "First Boot Device, Second Boot Device, Third Boot Device".

I was not referring to the above # 1 or # 2, but "First Boot Device, Second Boot Device, Third Boot Device". If you have a floppy, that is the third device.

Right now first is CDROM until the OS Win 7 is installed. Right now the Hard Drive is Second Boot. After you are finished you will make Hard Drive the "first" and the CDROM the "second".

Explaining the other stuff takes a little more time and I cannot get to it until tomorrow morning. By the way, 'Bootable Add-in Cards' is a Google-ing phrase, microsoft related.

Woody

10-29-2010, 11:30 PM

OK, I have good news and I have bad news.

First the good news, I installed a new hard drive tonight and was able to run the WD Diagnostics. I did the quck test and the extended test and no errors were reported. Then I did the quick erase and the full erase.

Now the bad news. I tried to Install Windows 7 and got the following error message " Windows cannot install the required files. The file does not exist. Make sure all files required for installation are available and restart installation. Error Code 0x80070002"

It then brought me back to the install screen, so I clicked on install again, thinking maybe it just might install correctly if I tried again. No such luck. I got the following error message " Windows cannot install the required files. Make sure all files required for installation are available and restart installation. Error Code 0x80070714".

Then it brought me to a blue screen which said:

"A problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.

Bad - Pool -Header

If this is the first time you have seen this stop error screen restart your computer. If this screen appears again follow thise steps. Check to make sure new hardware or software is properly installed. If this is a new installation ask your hardware or software manufacturer for any windows updates you may need.

If problems continue disable or remove any newly installed hardward or software. Disable bios memmory option such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use safe mode to remove or disasble components, restart your computer, press F8 to select Advanced Start-up options and then select safe mode. Technical information stop: 0x00000019 (0x0000000000000003, 0xFFFFF8A0096774E0, 0x0000000004E8B4A7, 0xFFFFF8A0096774E0)"

Since it was the first time I saw the screen I tried to reboot and install again, but I got the following message "Boot MGR is missing press CTRL+Alt+Del to restart." If I hit CTRL+Alt+Del it brings me back to the same message.

zburns

10-30-2010, 11:44 AM

Woody, Comment after I finished this post. Your comment: I tried to Install Windows 7 and got the following error message " Windows cannot install the required files. The file does not exist. Make sure all files required for installation are available and restart installation. Error Code 0x80070002"

Did you look at Standard CMOS Features and Advanced CMOS Features before you tried the install and after you got the error message. Try this if you did not do it. By now we both know what Standard and Advanced should show. If by chance Standard CMOS and Advanced CMOS are not as you set them before the Win 7 install, that would indicate something wrong with the BIOS. By the way have you rechecked the voltage settings on the RAM that you changed -- is all that still the same?
__________________

Woody, I just completed a long post and lost it trying to send it. I will comment briefly here do some more research over the weekend and repost accordingly when I have some more comments or conclusions.

First, provided your WDLifeguard Test was the Quick test, the extended test and the Write to Zero's Test, your new hard drive should be ready for loading the OS. Check your BIOS settings under Standard CMOS Features and Advanced BIOS Features for the settings you originally set.

Obviously, under Standard CMOS, you should have two IDE devices showing up in the right hand column in lieu of the "None" entries. The CPU picks the IDE Channel ___ Master, number so you do not know in advance what it is.

Your OEM software works under some weird rules MAYBE. You only get one install with the software. The point at which in the install process, that the OEM package stops working, fails or whatever and what the "message" is, I do not know. You or I might find it on the Internet; worst case, you can call Microsoft, explain you purchased OEM to use on this first build, and they will tell you how to work around it.

Another point, when you can load the Win 7 package, before you can "save" any download to the harddrive, you have to partition the Hard Drive. My only experience was with Vista, I was unprepared. The download asked how much space I wanted allocated to the OS and I arbitrarily put in 200gb. I did not do any more partitions beyond that, mainly because I had not been forewarned and had not planned for any more partitions. I do not know how your software disc is formated relative to the partitions.

More important, protection is built into the software disc to prevent loading more than one computer; exactly how this is presently done I do not know; however, one would expect that Microsoft does not try to keep it a secret and it is published within the large number of files Microsoft makes available.

Closing Comment: (Later comment after I wrote this. Not sure I would try this just yet!) Your computer should be working ok if you can boot Ubuntu from the Ubuntu CD. Provided you hard drive is clean, you could then try to save Ubuntu to the Hard Drive and then go back and wipe it clean unless you want to keep Ubuntu on the drive. In the process of loading it onto the HD, you would have to partition the HD, I assume, for Ubuntu and Win 7, and allow other space for everything else.

Woody

10-30-2010, 01:44 PM

I called Microsoft to get some help with the install. They had me remove one stick of RAM and then try the install again.

It worked. I now have Windows 7 installed, but it appears that I have one bad stick of RAM because after I put the second stick of RAM back in the computer, it giving me error messages and shutting down. That was not happening with just one stick of RAM (2MB) installed.

zburns, Deneb and Rickytick, Thank you so much for all of your help. zburns, you really put a lot of time and effort into helping me and I really appreciate it.

zburns

10-30-2010, 02:08 PM

That's great. Probably means the original HD is ok. In any event, I am very glad you are working and glad I could help.

Deneb

10-30-2010, 03:04 PM

Woody,

Glad you got Windows 7 installed. There is a program called Memtest86 that can fully test your RAM. At the link below you can make a CD or DVD from an ISO image. This is a step that really should be taken between first boot and install the operating system.

click on free download:
http://www.memtest86.com

Woody

10-30-2010, 10:15 PM

Thanks, Deneb

I am in the process of testing the RAM with Memtest 86. On the stick of RAM that I thought was good there were 8 errors on test 5 and 296 errors on test 7. I haven't tested the second stick yet. I assume the stick that I tested is bad with that many errors?

Deneb

10-31-2010, 10:37 AM

I it’s probable that the RAM is bad but it is possible that it’s just incompatible with the motherboard. Gigabyte motherboards are known to be picky about what RAM they will run with. However usually the problem shows up as an inability to post or complete the first boot. The dreaded fans spin but nothing else happens scenario. At the beginning of this thread you’ve posted that you are using Corsair 4GB DDR3 RAM. What type of RAM is it specifically?

You may want to just RMA the RAM back to where you got it from and try getting some different RAM. I’m just about to build a system with a gigabyte board and I’m going with the RAM below.

“Note that even ONE error is a sign of a serious problem - a correctly functioning computer can run MemTest for weeks with no errors.

If you do get an error, the next question is to determine how to fix it. The most common cause of memory errors is a faulty memory card. Unfortunately, due to variations in motherboards and chipsets, it is impossible to reliably locate the physical chip that is failing purely via software. It is still possible, however, to determine which DIMM is failing if you have more than one, by elimination: Run the machine with one memory board installed at a time; when errors are found the installed board is at fault. This is also a good diagnostic for another reason: sometimes the problem is really with the motherboard, and it will disappear if you have less RAM installed, or if the DIMMs are installed in different slots. If you have access to multiple computers, you can also try testing the "faulty" RAM in both to isolate whether the problem is the memory or some other component.”

http://hcidesign.com/memtest/manual.html

Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2 x 2GB) X2 = 8 GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BN1337 $200.00
7-7-7-24 1.65V Dual Channel Kit 9-9-9-25 backup settings
800-336-8915 Phone1-208-363-5790

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148323 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148323)

Deneb

10-31-2010, 11:05 AM

I had a couple of general thoughts on hardware and first boot. One of the problems that can happen is the dreaded fans spin but nothing else happens scenario. With the fans spin this usually indicates that the power supply is good. The problem usually is either with a bad motherboard, bad CPU or bad or incompatible RAM. Troubleshooting this for shop is really quite simple. You just plug in a known good RAM from another system. If that fails you change out the CPU for a known good one. If that fails the motherboard is bad. Unfortunately for a homebuilder you generally don’t have an extra CPU or RAM module lying around.

What I was thinking as it might be worth it for a homebuilder to buy a single extra stick of RAM along with the regular RAM for a system. The module listed below as extremely good reviews and should work with any DDR3 system. Once a system is built you can send back the extra RAM module to Newegg and pay a 15% restocking fee. That comes to $6.45. If one still has no joy after testing with both RAM setups, you can figure it’s either the CPU or the motherboard. Pick one and tell Newegg that its bad and RMA it back for no charge.

Crucial 2GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500) Desktop Memory Model CT25664BA1067 $42.99

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148149

Woody

10-31-2010, 12:27 PM

zburns

10-31-2010, 02:20 PM

Woody, This Post is about Static Control. (Side comment on your RAM Purchase first) I wonder if there is a problem with buying from Amazon. How do you know you are getting the latest and newest "correct" version of the Corsair RAM.

DDR3 RAM manufacturing technology advances in the form of faster latency and smaller nanometer manufacturing. What happens to older DDR3 made with slower latency and a now outdated nanometer sizes.

So what you purchased needs to be compared to what is the latest most up to date RAM compatible with your mobo.

Not saying what you purchased is wrong; you do not want outdated stuff. Just need to check it out.

-------------------------------
Woody, Things are getting too complicated; pull back for a short period. Everything below is about getting control of what you are doing. Assuming you ran the RAM Test correctly, you have results that indicate "your good stick" may not be all that good. You should run the same test on both sticks multiple times to see if you get the same results each time. I would expect 100% duplication of multiple run tests; if I did not get them, I would call MemTest and ask, if I should be achieveing "same results on multiple identical test runs".

Never Under ANY Circumstances Stick One Hand or Both Hands Inside a Computer Case Unless the Power Cord Has Been Unplugged From the Case

The most important thing you do right now is to go back over how you handled all of your components during the build with respect to "static control". Three years ago, when I did my build, I read a comment that directly said a high percentage of all computer components returned for being defective were probably damaged from ESD -- Electrostatic Discharge." So if you at any time during the build did not use some static control precautions, and I mean everytime you handled a component, you have no way of knowing if you inadvertently caused the problem.

Minimal static control: 1. Wear a wrist strap that includes a conductive wrist band, a ground wire with an internal current limiting resistor and an alligator clip at the end of the ground wire. 2. Unplug the 110 volt power cable from the back of the computer case.-- always before ever putting your hand into the case. 3. Before ever putting your hand in the case, connect the alligator clip from the wrist strap to a "solid" ground point on the case (connect to one of the clear plated parts of the case, a stud, a steel mesh, etc.. 4. To insert a PCB of any type: The PCB should always remain in its protective anti static plastic bag until you want to install it; if your remove it, put it back in the bag. (The bag material has an obvious black/dot/connective line pattern that can be seen. This pattern or design is semi-conductive. It is on the inside of the bag.)

5. Use a short grounding wire (apx 30 ") with alligator clips both ends to connect the bag to the case. One side of one clip must be against the inside semi-conductive pattern . Connect the other end of the wire (via alligator clip) to a good ground point on the case. The bag conductive pattern is now connected to the case. 6. Handling a component when removing it from the case such as a stick of RAM. Using the setup (1-4 above), COMPUTER CASE UNPLUGED, Wrist Strap on wrist, other end connect to case. Best to use only one hand; push down on the side lock brackets at each end of the RAM stick; RAM stick will rise up, become loose in the socket. ---- Remove the RAM stick and return it immediately to its protective bag that has a grounding clip attached to it.

7. To install a new RAM stick, reverse the process. Cut one end of the protective bag open; cut a small slot/hole at the opposite end. Hook up the alligator clip from the grounding wire that connects to the computer case thru this hole before you touch the RAM. One side of the alligator clip must be against the inside pattern on the inside of the bag.

Wearing the wrist strap that is properly hooked to the case, remove the RAM and preferably using one hand, install it in the case. You can use two hands where it is dictated; I prefer just one hand unless it is obvious I need both hands. CAUTION: Always handle a PC Board component from its edges. Never, for example, put the end of a finger against the PCB surface -- you will transfer some degree of "salt based" contamination to the PCB surface.

As you work this way a few times, it becomes easy, more or less automatic; you become more alert to "going into your case in a prescribed correct way" which precludes accidental ESD damage.

In my case I have a semi conductive plastic mesh pad 1/4" thick. Using a wire about 30 " long, alligator clips each end, I put one clip on one corner of the pad, the other clip on the case. Put my wrist strap on, connect other end to ground point on case. I then use the semi conductive pad to lay the components on whether I am putting them in the case or taking them out. If I want them in the special shipping bags for storage or whatever, put the bag on the pad and push them in.

While all of the above sounds like "silly nonsense" to some folks who may just "blow it off as unnecessary", it is part of a disciplined process of working around semi conductor electronics. When widespread use of PCBs came into use, the above techniques quickly came with them in all manufacturing facilities; it is a process rigorously enforced in PCB manufacturing. Same rules apply in service shops

zburns

11-01-2010, 06:43 AM

Woody, If you have not done this already, go to Newegg, memory and look at the reviews on your Corsair memory sticks. On the Crucial Memory that Deneb recommends, there are only two pages of reviews (Newegg). The difference is reviews in "striking". This is the clearest "statement" I have seen that would seem to pin down your problem.

Woody

11-01-2010, 09:06 AM

zburns,

Thanks for the information on proper handling of the RAM, etc. I have tried to be very careful and have used the anti-static wrist strap at all times.

I have already requested an exchange on my memmory from Amazon.com. Do you think I should try the new RAM they send me or just return it and go with the memmory Deneb recommends.

One thing I noted between the RAM Deneb recommended and the RAM I have is the speed. Will there be a performance difference between DDR 3 1600 (PC3 12800) as compared to DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500)? Maybe it would not be an issue with the components I have selected.

zburns

11-01-2010, 10:33 AM

If you look at the Newegg reviews for the Corsair and the Crucial (Deneb's Cru Cat #), there is a dramatic difference. The numbers of negative reviews on the first several pages of Newegg for Corsair are dramatic. I do not know why anyone, having read the Newegg Corsair would consider this Corsair item.

Remember in the Newegg review for the Corsair Ram, it is not "for Corsair Ram and the P55A UD3 mobo", rather, the reviews are for "across the board mobo's with this particular Corsair RAM. Also, from the Newegg reviews on the Corsair, the high percentage of bad reviews in this October time frame are a bad indication; you have no guarantee that by getting "the same Corsair RAM from Amazon" that things will change; you are just "rolling the dice". So, definitely, I would stay away from any Corsair RAM right now.

I would stick with Crucial, period! It seems to have a very good track record with the "My Super PC" users. Right now you want to get up and running. Let us say that some of the things Deneb pointed out in his post on MemTest are true, in particular, MemTest saying that some RAM is incompatible with some chipsets, mobos, etc.. This is a random "shotgun" statement by MemTest (in favor of "selling" MemTest); however, the reviews above tend to support that statement.

Another possibility is that your mobo is one of the first recognized or certified for USB 3.0 speed or something like that, and, there could be "compatibility issues from the RAM manufacturers looking "toward" the mobo manufacturers, and, Crucial got it right -- there is no way for "us" to really know any of this for a fact. Rob's 'My Super PC' policy, recommendation to wait 6 mos after new technology hits the market certainly seems correct.

Your point on timings. When DDR3 RAM first hit the market, the RAM timings you have on the Corsair were typical of the earlier versions. The newer RAM timings of the Crucial that are faster are an indication of "later and more compatible" technology compared to earlier technology. This is a fact and you can read a lot into it in favor of the much newer Crucial RAM. Memory spec on your GBmobo: 3.Support for DDR3 2200/1600/1333/1066/800 MHz memory modules. DDR3-1600 much faster than DDR3-1066.

Take a look at this news release, for Micron (owner of Crucial): http://www.globenewswire.com/newsroom/news.html?d=183733

The one statement that gives you the bottom line is the Newegg Reviews on the Corsair.
----------------------------------------
I just noticed a discrepancy that is important. Your Corsair RAM is DDR3-1600, Deneb's Crucial rec is DDR3 1333 which is a step down from the Corsair; your mobo does support DDR3 1600 and 2200. I am going to step away from this for a few hours.

Deneb

11-01-2010, 04:28 PM

“I have already requested an exchange on my memory from Amazon.com. Do you think I should try the new RAM they send me or just return it and go with the memory Deneb recommends.

One thing I noted between the RAM Deneb recommended and the RAM I have is the speed. Will there be a performance difference between DDR 3 1600 (PC3 12800) as compared to DDR3 1066 (PC3 8500)? Maybe it would not be an issue with the components I have selected.”

Crucial Ballistix 8GB (2 x 2GB) X2 = 8 GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model BL2KIT25664BN1337 $200.00
7-7-7-24 1.65V Dual Channel Kit 9-9-9-25 backup settings
800-336-8915 Phone1-208-363-5790

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148323

vs

CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) X2 (8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 $173.98

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145260&Tpk=CMX4GX3M2A1600C9

Yes the RAM I recommend is slower. But the difference between 1333 and 1600 speed is only 20%. If you read the reviews on the 1600 speed RAM you will see that a lot of people aren’t able to get the RAM running at 1600. However, the RAM runs fine at a slower speed. Crucial ballistics offers RAM at the 1600 speed for that less. What I noticed is that neither the CPU you are using or the motherboard supports 1600 speed if you look at the specs. That doesn’t mean that with messing around with timing settings and voltage settings you might build a get the RAM to run at 1600. But for myself I did not want to fool around with it. It also seems funny that supposedly better RAM cost less. I would recommend that you return the RAM back to Amazon and go with a crucial ballistics 1333 speed RAM.

Crucial Ballistix 8GB (4 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model $189.98
BL2KIT25664BN1608
1.65 volts, Timing 8-8-8-24

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148325

GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 LGA 1156 Intel P55 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128412&cm_re=Gigabyte_P55A-UD3-_-13-128-412-_-Product

DDR3 2200/1333/1066/800

Intel Core I5 760 processor

http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=48496

Memory Types DDR3-1066/1333

Note that on any processor you can put in the numbers such as I5 760 into the search box at Newegg. Then copy and paste the specific code for the processor into Intel’s search box. Then you can see the specific specs on any processor such as whether not as hyperthreading and the amount of level III cache.

BX80605I5760

http://www.intel.com/?en_US_01

Other thoughts: CORSAIR RAM is generally of exceedingly high quality. Perhaps this is just a really bad batch. I love Amazon but when it comes to reviews I like Newegg much better for computer parts. The people over at Newegg tend to be people building custom boxes that they want to overclock and they are very knit picky about parts. Anything that has serious problems will get reported.